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Old 01-09-2014, 09:57 PM   #1
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Critique my Correctlync..

Alright I have my new Correctlync steering installed as well as a new Currie adj front trackbar. I think I have it pretty close to setup, but still need to do all the final adjustments and alignment tomorrow.


However I have a couple of concerns and would like some input from those of you who either run or have installed this setup. Bear in mind the final adjustments of brackets etc is not finished yet. (Excepts the stabilizer, I got it tightened down.)

My setup is an '03 Rubicon TJ, 4" OME lift, rancho adjustable shocks.

Here is the overall pic of how it looks right now:



Looking at how I have it the stabilizer compared to some others i found on google images I'm now thinking the front stabilizer mount is pointing the stabilizer too far up on the driver side. Others seem to be running it directly in line with the drag link. Mine is cocked a little bit, but seemed to sit well there.

I installed all this on a lift at my work, so some of my concerns may not be a big as issues as I think, but I am not sure.

Next up is the pass side sway bar link (quick disconnect). When the jeep is on the ground and the steering wheel completely turned to the passenger side full lock the top of the tie rod end where the tie rod connects to the drag link, it barely, just BARELY contacts the bottom of my sway bar link/mount:






Now when the jeep is in the air on the lift and the suspension is completely hanging, that tie rod end smacks right into the sway bar link. This might not ever be a problem based on how low the susp is hanging when on the lift compared to wheeling it, but I'm not sure.

Next up, still on the ground, this time on the drivers side with the steering wheel turned full lock to the drivers side, the tie rod doesn't touch, but comes within about 1/4" from touching the sway bar link mount :





Everything clears the diff cover by a good inch, so no issues there that I can tell.

I am curious about the tie rod end clamps. On the bar there are machined notches on the ends as recesses for the clamp bolts. These clamps can not go any other way but to have the curve on top and the open ends down on my setup otherwise they hit things. (The stabilizer for sure on the pass side already did that) My concern here is if those recesses end up on top for the alignment, then what do I do? Go ahead the half turn passed so the clamps will align properly to clear??

And finally a couple more pics of the setup. This is with a stock pitman arm as well.









Any insight or opinions would be welcome! Tomorrow is the final adjustments and the alignment!!

Thanks in advance!

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Old 01-09-2014, 10:19 PM   #2
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Your setup looks pretty typical of a Tj/LJ front end. The tie Rod hitting the sway bar link is a common issue when running the Currectlync. Contact Blaine at Black Magic Brakes, he has the cure for about $55. We use these on most every Tj that we install Currectlyncs on. Jeep On!

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Old 01-09-2014, 10:21 PM   #3
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I installed 2 Currectlync systems on my '03 Rubicon w/4.5" susp. and my friends '06 LJ Rubicon w/3.5" susp.

Pics of my '03 TJ Rubicon





When looking at your pitman arm, I know for certain that mine just isn't cinched on tight enough. I have been working on firming it down over the past couple of months, but it tends to work itself loose, contributing to a bad shimmy that sometimes presents itself.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:17 PM   #4
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JPi1, thanks for the info. I thought I did due diligence though. I never ran into any postings about any issues with this & the currectlync. Care to elaborate any on what the fix is? I really hate to spend more $$ on this. I thought the currectlync was the end all be all. Never knew I may have to spend more $$ to get it right.

Thanks for the pics DesertOutlaw! Yea the pitman was a pain to get on there but it's as far as it would go!
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
JPi1, thanks for the info. I thought I did due diligence though. I never ran into any postings about any issues with this & the currectlync. Care to elaborate any on what the fix is? I really hate to spend more $$ on this. I thought the currectlync was the end all be all. Never knew I may have to spend more $$ to get it right. Thanks for the pics DesertOutlaw! Yea the pitman was a pain to get on there but it's as far as it would go!
Blaine's fix locates the lower link higher so there is no more interference. It's a weld on fix.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
JPi1, thanks for the info. I thought I did due diligence though. I never ran into any postings about any issues with this & the currectlync.
I ran into the same issue with the same setup on my '04 Rubi. I just cut the swaybar bracket off at the time with the intention of welding it back on higher up later. That was last year and i haven't missed the swaybar yet...
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:29 PM   #7
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well as much as I was really hoping all my issues would be solved after all the money & time I have spent on the front end over the last couple weeks, it wasn't.

Steering feels great! Death wobble is gone! Still got a shimmy though.

Replaced and rebuilt all the control arm bushings in the front including axle side. replaced broken trackbar, replaced the steering. Tires have been balanced 2 times, then I tried the bead balancing still shaking at 45+. annoying. specially when the shake came out of the blue. used to be smooth as glass. I haven't replaced any of the rear control arm bushings yet maybe that will help..

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Old 01-10-2014, 12:35 PM   #8
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Have you checked front axle u-joints?
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
well as much as I was really hoping all my issues would be solved after all the money & time I have spent on the front end over the last couple weeks, it wasn't. Steering feels great! Death wobble is gone! Still got a shimmy though. Replaced and rebuilt all the control arm bushings in the front including axle side. replaced broken trackbar, replaced the steering. Tires have been balanced 2 times, then I tried the bead balancing still shaking at 45+. annoying. specially when the shake came out of the blue. used to be smooth as glass. I haven't replaced any of the rear control arm bushings yet maybe that will help..
How old are your ball joints? I had a shimmy I couldn't track down and after replacing the ball joints it finally fixed my problem. I tried every test I could to see if they seemed loose at all but they always seemed good and tight. Eventually I decided to replace them anyway and once I had the knuckle off I was finally able to see how bad they were.

May not be your problem but it's worth looking into if they have some age.
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:17 PM   #10
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Here is how the Correctlync went on my 97.
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:36 AM   #11
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u-joints were checked out on saturday, all ok there.

Unknown on age of ball joints. as far as we could tell they are in good shape.

Drove 200 miles today and the vibe is still present. very odd though as I drove the vibes would change. for a few seconds at a time they would go away, but always come back. sometimes the vibes would be almost bearable, other times annoying as hell.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
u-joints were checked out on saturday, all ok there.

Unknown on age of ball joints. as far as we could tell they are in good shape.

Drove 200 miles today and the vibe is still present. very odd though as I drove the vibes would change. for a few seconds at a time they would go away, but always come back. sometimes the vibes would be almost bearable, other times annoying as hell.

Sounds more like a tire balance issue. Does it get better or worse after a turn?
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:32 AM   #13
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Turning doesn't seem to make much difference that I can tell..

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