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Old 12-04-2009, 08:14 AM   #1
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cv drive shaft help

Now i deffinatley have vibration still with my t-case drop installed on my 3.25" RC lift. Now i would like to get rid of that vibration so im looking into cv drive shafts, so i can eliminate the t-case drop and vibrations. Now here are my questions.

Do i need front and rear cv drive shafts (possible?), or just rear?

Do i "need" to get a SYE kit aswell? If so why?

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Old 12-04-2009, 11:38 AM   #2
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SYE kit and CV Driveshaft. I know a guy in missouri who will sell you a Tom Woods Driveshagt for cheap.

Then you can get a RE Hack and Tap SYE which is cheap.

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Old 12-04-2009, 12:03 PM   #3
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:22 PM   #4
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Now i deffinatley have vibration still with my t-case drop installed on my 3.25" RC lift. Now i would like to get rid of that vibration so im looking into cv drive shafts, so i can eliminate the t-case drop and vibrations. Now here are my questions.

Do i need front and rear cv drive shafts (possible?), or just rear?

Do i "need" to get a SYE kit aswell? If so why?

Chances are you will not need a front DS . . . to be sure, just disconnect it and drive around and if you still have the issue, you'll know the front DS is not the culprit. Unless you have a Rubicon, you will need the SYE kit, along with the rear CV DS . . . you can get a nice SYE+DS combo for $500. Don't forget though that you will also need adjustable rear UCAs to change the pinyon angle to work with the CV DS, and you may need a CV style TrackBar bracket to correct its angle as well. Just an FYI . . . a CV DS will need to be lubed regularly . . . not just the U-Joints, but the center ball as well which will require removing one end of the DS to get to the zirk . . . even then, they wear out. If taken care of, you may get a few years, but if not, you might only get a year or two out of one (I failed to grease the centerball and mine only lasted 1.5 years) and by the time I pay for shipping, it'll be over 150 bucks to have it rebuilt/rebalanced. So if you buy used, make sure you know what your getting and either way, be sure to keep it lubed . . . I know I will from now on!
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:27 PM   #5
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Do all CV DS need to be lubed? first time ive heard this one (not saying youre lying)

You can get it down to around $300 if you get a cheaper DS and hack and tap SYE.
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:50 PM   #6
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Do all CV DS need to be lubed? first time ive heard this one (not saying youre lying)

You can get it down to around $300 if you get a cheaper DS and hack and tap SYE.


I would assume that they do. But I can tell you first hand that if you have a Tom Wood's DS, then yes absolutely, or you'll be rebuilding it pretty quickly. 300 seems really cheap for both . . . I have a Rubi so I didn't have to deal with the SYE, but most the CV DS that I've seen start around the 300 mark just for the DS.
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:03 PM   #7
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First, the factory front driveshaft is already a CV driveshaft, it's fine. And where lubing is concerned, the CV joint itself needs to be lubed via a zerk fitting that is hidden under the u-joints. The u-joints on a CV driveshaft are a different matter... some builders install sealed u-joints that never need lubing and others use non-sealed u-joints that have zerk fittings which must be greased regularly. The last Tom Wood driveshaft I had made, I specified sealed Spicer u-joints instead of their usual greasable u-joints. For my type of wheeling, the sealed Spicer 5-785x u-joint is more durable and simply less trouble. I have too many zerks to grease so getting rid of three u-joint zerks, especially because those on the CV are hard to get to, was a blessing.
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:57 PM   #8
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If I remember right, I don't think the stock centering ball part comes with a zerk. The exact same Spicer part that you replace it with does come with a zerk though (don't ask my why that is).

I had a Spicer U-joint with the grease fitting, and the zerk got knocked off somehow, and all the grease slung out and blew out the U-joint.

A motor mount lift might get rid of some of those vibrations. I would still do the SYE/CV, but that will help for now.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:07 PM   #9
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First, the factory front driveshaft is already a CV driveshaft, it's fine. And where lubing is concerned, the CV joint itself needs to be lubed via a zerk fitting that is hidden under the u-joints. The u-joints on a CV driveshaft are a different matter... some builders install sealed u-joints that never need lubing and others use non-sealed u-joints that have zerk fittings which must be greased regularly. The last Tom Wood driveshaft I had made, I specified sealed Spicer u-joints instead of their usual greasable u-joints. For my type of wheeling, the sealed Spicer 5-785x u-joint is more durable and simply less trouble. I have too many zerks to grease so getting rid of three u-joint zerks, especially because those on the CV are hard to get to, was a blessing.
Hey Jerry,

Does the stock front drive shaft need any maintainence or is everything sealed on it?
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:46 PM   #10
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The u-joints are sealed (maintenance-free) but I thought the centering joint under the u-joints was greasable on all front TJ driveshafts. Mine is, but perhaps they went to a non-greasable centering joint after mine was manufactured from what ChrisTX says. I switched front driveshafts when I converted to the auto tranny two ago so I can't look to be sure.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:48 PM   #11
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my front shaft from the factory was not greaseable the new tom woods front shaft is. Also my rear tom woods shaft is. I needed them that way since all the water I get into. But I agree with jerrry for the west if you don't get into a lot of mud or water leave them seled.

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