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Old 05-21-2010, 11:00 AM   #1
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D-30 oil seal

Anyone replaced this seal yourself? I'm pretty sure I can't afford a shop right now. I think I can do it as I've done most all repairs on my jeep, just never an oil seal yet. It's just wet, I don't know how long and there are no spots on the driveway. Front diff. D-30. 05 TJ.


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Old 05-21-2010, 11:09 AM   #2
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Should be diy'able rather easily.

Hardest part is gonna be getting the nut off so you can get the yoke (not sure that's the right term, but I figure its close enough) off.

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Old 05-21-2010, 01:00 PM   #3
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It's a fairly straightforward process that does not require getting inside the axle. Remove the pinion nut, then the yoke which pulls straight off... a little persuasion may be required from a large screwdriver used as a lever/prybar.

Underneath is the pinion seal that is leaking. Getting the old seal out is not easy but it should only take 5-10 minutes. I do a cut into the seal with a small chisel or flat bladed screwdriver and then start pulling it apart with vise grips and pliers. It is made from lead and rubber so it's not hard to pull apart... kind of like peeling an orange.

Be careful not to nick or scratch the surface the seal seats against.

Once the old seal is out, clean up the seal seating surface with brake cleaner or just wipe it out real good so there is no debris to cause the new seal to leak.

The new seal is carefully tapped into place once you get it started all the way around. Getting all 360 degrees of the seal started and partially seated before the final seating of the seal takes a little doing, it will want to cock to one side. Have patience, it will eventually finally seat all the way around at which point you can then carefully seat it all the way with light taps all the way around until it bottoms out & is in all the way.

Be gentle, you want to avoid damaging the new seal so it would leak like the old one.

A good seal is from SKF which bought out the old Chicago Rawhide line of seals. I recently ordered one for my D44 from RockAuto Auto Parts who seems to have about the best prices and fastest delivery for such items. Their website makes it pretty easy to find what you need.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:06 PM   #4
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Thanks Jerry.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:59 AM   #5
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Yup my D-30 has been doing that for probably 6 months now. Been procrastinating doing it. I have the seal and new yoke nut but When I talk to people about doing it some say just pull it off change it and torque the nut to 180 ft/lbs. Other say you have to pull the axle shafts, measure the amount of torque it takes to spin the driveshaft and then torque the pinion nut back to that so you can set the bearing pre load properly. I have read it doesn't matter and I have read it will ruin your bearings if you don't. I don't know what the hell to believe anymore. I know this has been asked before and I know I will get both answers but how important is it to measure the rolling torque as oppose to just torquing the pinion nut to say 180-200 ft/lbs. I would rather drive around with a leaky seal than ruin my bearings and have to replace the axle.
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:14 PM   #6
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Don't forget to check yoke surface where the seal rides.
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:53 PM   #7
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Most parts stores sell a seal puller tool. They aren't very expensive but it makes getting the old seal out pretty easy. You can still use a screw driver to pry it though not a big deal.
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkjoe View Post
Yup my D-30 has been doing that for probably 6 months now. Been procrastinating doing it. I have the seal and new yoke nut but When I talk to people about doing it some say just pull it off change it and torque the nut to 180 ft/lbs. Other say you have to pull the axle shafts, measure the amount of torque it takes to spin the driveshaft and then torque the pinion nut back to that so you can set the bearing pre load properly. I have read it doesn't matter and I have read it will ruin your bearings if you don't. I don't know what the hell to believe anymore. I know this has been asked before and I know I will get both answers but how important is it to measure the rolling torque as oppose to just torquing the pinion nut to say 180-200 ft/lbs. I would rather drive around with a leaky seal than ruin my bearings and have to replace the axle.
ive read the same things and im not sure what to do either. i thought it would be pretty easy but im finding it hard to find a straight forward answer. ive read a few of these "how to" guides and they all contradict each other.
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Old 07-13-2010, 12:36 PM   #9
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I've had good luck with several pinion seal replacements by doing nothing more than torqueing the pinion nut afterwards to between 160 and 180 ft-lbs. after putting a bit of red locktite on the threads. I got that advice years ago from Tom Wood and it has worked fine for me.
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:09 PM   #10
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thanks for the input jerry.

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