I doubt you would have room for a large socket, a hammer, and your hand in the space where the carrier goes. Get yourself a little rubber/plastic mallet and gently tap around the seal, Or, if you want to do it right, get a seal driver set, they are cheap, simple and easy to use and do a much better job than a socket.
I would say that, if you have 33, 34 and 36mm sockets on hand then it's time you had some other tools you rarely use, like seal & race drivers.
I did something like in this thread (scroll down a bit to see the threaded rod, home built tool). Replacing the xj front axle seals - Jeep Talk - Midsouth Jeep Club
IMO, there is not really enough room in there to get a hammer swinging with the force and straight on direction you need to drive the seal properly. I saw one thread where a guy used a long rod or tube all the way from the end of the axle inward to drive each seal, but then you need two people and a long rod that fits in the hole of the seal. The threaded rod worked great and was not too much money to build. It also keeps everything in line.
2003 TJ Sport, 42RLE Auto, 4.0L, Heated Seats, Remote Start, 3.5" Rancho Springs, Metal Cloak CAs and F&R Track Bar, RS9000XL Shocks, 33x12.5R15 DuraTrac, 4.88 Gears, SYE, Smittybuilt Classic Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier, Novak Cable Shift, Rusty's Tranny/Engine Skid, Cherry Bomb Cat Back
Unless your present inner seals are leaking I wouldn't bother replacing them. I have replaced a number of front axle shafts on both of my TJs and haven't needed to replace an inner seal yet.
A trick way of removing the carrier is this... place a box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, then use a long screwdriver in the pinion yoke to turn the ring gear in the direction that would tighten the ring gear bolt with the wrench. That will lever the carrier out with surprising ease.
__________________ When you have a choice, buy American.
I changed the seals on my '03 when installing my Aussie locker just because it's such a PITA to remove the carrier again if those decade-old seals begin to leak.
I have a port-a-power hydraulic tool, so I used it with the duckbill attachment. One lip of the attachment was placed on a socket which fit the seal's facing, the other on a block of wood that was braced against the opposite side of the axle housing. After a bit of pumping on the hydraulic tool, the seals "popped" in loudly.
The seal itself allows various sized sockets as an insertion tool. Just use one that fits OK.
BTY, I'd recommend slipping an Aussie into that D30 while you're in there. It's a quality product for $250 that will increase your traction exponentially.
I think the Aussie is a GREAT idea and will be getting one in two weeks. I am interested in an LSD for my Dana 44. Any suggestions?
Jerry, while they do not leak (yet) I might have boogered the first one when I replaced the stock shafts, initially. (Or I might have knocked it askew.) Since they are indeed in excess of a decade old I will probably change them out while I am in there.
The Aussie, though - I had no idea they could be had so cheaply. I would like front and read air lockers in the future, with a D44 front end. Perhaps someday this will happen, but it will be overkill for what I do.
Still, there is a lot to be said for off roading even moderately in a very nicely set up jeep... ;-)
Thanks for the help, guys.
2003 Shale Green TJ Sport
2013 Black JK Sport S
The terms "PO" and POS" are interchangeable when referring to the guy who used to own my TJ.