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Old 09-02-2010, 10:02 AM   #1
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Dana 30 Torque ??

We'll I just found a nice puddle of oil on the ground coming from the front pinion seal leaking.

I have the new seal read to be put on. Does anyone know what torque spec the pinion nut should be torqued down when putting it back together?

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Old 09-02-2010, 10:05 AM   #2
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There is actually a thread on the TJ Forum about all of this from last week that has a link with pics and all the info you need.

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Old 09-02-2010, 10:08 AM   #3
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book says 200#, I just buzz um down with an impact and run um....never had a problem in 20 years
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:08 AM   #4
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D-30 Axle Shaft Seal Replacement - 3

This page should help
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
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He's asking about a PINION SEAL.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:26 PM   #6
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Do not just hammer a pinion nut on with a air wrench, the rolling torque needs to be measured, On my 2000 tj the work shop maual is rolling torque plus 5 inch lbs.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOKKIE View Post
Do not just hammer a pinion nut on with a air wrench, the rolling torque needs to be measured, On my 2000 tj the work shop maual is rolling torque plus 5 inch lbs.
Yep. Over torquing the pinion nut can put too much preload on the bearing leading to an early failure. When a pinion seizes it's never a pretty picture. Been there.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:47 PM   #8
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Here you go, this is the procedure for a 00TJ, wouldn't want to give you any info that might hurt your Jeep.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Doc1.pdf (398.6 KB, 408 views)
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:35 PM   #9
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Nah I call bs on that....who has a torque wrench that will go 210? One of my best buddies ones a nationally known diff shop and he buzzes em on every day of the week...no issues
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:55 AM   #10
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Well, you keep buzzing them on and you will eventually have a pinion sieze on you. The reason this is torqued this way is so you do not damage the crush sleeve that sets the preload on the pinion bearing. You also will not have to torque to 210#(spec is 260#) when not replacing the crush sleeve this torque is only needed when replacing crush sleeve.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:03 AM   #11
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The crush sleave is already crushed...and normally it takes 300-400 pounds to crush it in the first place. And in 90 percent of the cases, a CS is only replaced with a gearswap is happening. This is one topic where Jerry and I 100 percent agree on
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:10 AM   #12
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I agree, simply retorquing the pinion nut to an acceptable level is usually fine and problem free. I don't go to 200 ft-lbs. though, I normally take the pinion nut to about 180 ft-lbs. after putting a few drops of red Locktite on the threads.

I used believe I had to use an inch-lbs. torque wrench etc. to get it set correctly (set the "rolling torque") but after a conversation with the highly respected Tom Wood years ago, I learned all that is seldom necessary. I've been doing it the easier way ever since and it has always worked out fine.

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