Well, you keep buzzing them on and you will eventually have a pinion sieze on you. The reason this is torqued this way is so you do not damage the crush sleeve that sets the preload on the pinion bearing. You also will not have to torque to 210#(spec is 260#) when not replacing the crush sleeve this torque is only needed when replacing crush sleeve.
The crush sleave is already crushed...and normally it takes 300-400 pounds to crush it in the first place. And in 90 percent of the cases, a CS is only replaced with a gearswap is happening. This is one topic where Jerry and I 100 percent agree on
I agree, simply retorquing the pinion nut to an acceptable level is usually fine and problem free. I don't go to 200 ft-lbs. though, I normally take the pinion nut to about 180 ft-lbs. after putting a few drops of red Locktite on the threads.
I used believe I had to use an inch-lbs. torque wrench etc. to get it set correctly (set the "rolling torque") but after a conversation with the highly respected Tom Wood years ago, I learned all that is seldom necessary. I've been doing it the easier way ever since and it has always worked out fine.
__________________ When you have a choice, buy American.