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Old 01-11-2011, 10:31 PM   #1
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Dana 44 pinion seal replacment

How difficult is it to replace the pinion seal on a dana 44? Mine is leaking a little bit. Anyone have any instructions on this? thanks

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Old 01-12-2011, 12:22 AM   #2
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Haven't had to replace the front or rear pinion seal on my 2001 yet, but have done it on several cars and it was a simple procedure after removing the drive shaft and U-joint yoke.

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Old 01-12-2011, 07:01 PM   #3
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Posted this before, still works.

"Pinion seal. Pretty basic job except for getting the nut torqued back down correctly.
- Remove drive shaft at pinion end.
- Remove pinion nut with impact and pull off the yoke. May need to tap the yoke to free it.
- Remove seal. Can use a punch to put a small hole in it, then thread in a self tapping screw to give you something to pull on. A claw hammer works fine.
- Clean area. I hit the pinion shaft with a emery cloth to clean it up some. If its real bad you will need to repace it.
- Permatex the seal edges and install. Tap lightly around the edges with a brass punch/drift until it seats fully. You have to make sure you seat it evenly.
- Re-install yoke and nut.
Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

Easy job, you should have no problems.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:15 PM   #4
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D51 06TJ...thanks for the reply. I followed you until the last step.
"Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

I'm lost now...sorry.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:24 PM   #5
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Angry

I have an 04 TJ Sport. 4" lift running 35's.
I think I might have screwed something up. I recently changed my rear pinion seal about two weeks ago. Yesterday while driving to work about 4 miles I noticed that when I was off the gas or not under load I could here a kinda clunking sound not real bad. The sound keeps up with the speed I am traveling. It does not matter if in gear with the clutch in or in nutral with the clutch out. While under load there is no noise. Coming home from work it started getting really bad. Did I do something wrong? Oh ya I went up and played in the snow last weekend. Not real Hard but was going through about 3 feet of snow at times. Did not notice the sound then. HELP!!
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oIIIIIIo View Post
D51 06TJ...thanks for the reply. I followed you until the last step.
"Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

I'm lost now...sorry.
He's telling you how much torque it should take to turn the pinion with the wheels off the ground. (10 in lbs) I believe the torque spec on the pinion nut itself is 150-180 ft/lbs. He is talking about the rotational torque required to spin the pinion. The more torque you put on the pinion nut (and crush sleeve) the harder it will be to turn (rotational torque.) I marked my pinion nut, and torqued the pinion nut to 150 ft/lbs + on my front axle (D30) several months ago and it's been running fine since.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:47 PM   #7
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The Dana 44 does not have a crush sleeve. Torquing the pinon nut to between 160 and 180 ft-lbs. for a Dana 44 after replacing the pinion seal works fine. I just got doing another last weekend, it's not a bad job at all. Personally I don't use RTV but some do for a little added insurance. Permatex Ultra Black is good but Permatex has a brand-new RTV meant specifically to resist the additives contained in most gear lubes so that's what I used on my diff cover. It says Gear Lube or something similar to that on the card. Kragen and Autozone didn't carry it but Pep Boys did.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:28 AM   #8
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Thanks Ageless and Jerry for the clarification and informative info.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:46 PM   #9
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Jerry is the man - helped me with mine last year. It's straight forward. No crush sleeve, just pop the old out and new in. Watch those U-joint bolts as they can get corroded and locked pretty good requiring heat. Why Jeep uses such chintzy small fragile bolts is beyond me - ER yes, I sheared two of mine clean off.
You might have some fun torqueing to 160-180 if you don't have the body weight. Some guys on here joked about having a foot braced on a wheel and hanging off the torque wrench.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by HotTinRoof View Post
Jerry is the man - helped me with mine last year. It's straight forward. No crush sleeve, just pop the old out and new in. Watch those U-joint bolts as they can get corroded and locked pretty good requiring heat. Why Jeep uses such chintzy small fragile bolts is beyond me - ER yes, I sheared two of mine clean off.
You might have some fun torqueing to 160-180 if you don't have the body weight. Some guys on here joked about having a foot braced on a wheel and hanging off the torque wrench.
LOL...so I should torque it to 170?

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