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Old 01-11-2011, 10:31 PM   #1
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Dana 44 pinion seal replacment

How difficult is it to replace the pinion seal on a dana 44? Mine is leaking a little bit. Anyone have any instructions on this? thanks
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:22 AM   #2
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Haven't had to replace the front or rear pinion seal on my 2001 yet, but have done it on several cars and it was a simple procedure after removing the drive shaft and U-joint yoke.

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Old 01-12-2011, 07:01 PM   #3
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Posted this before, still works.

"Pinion seal. Pretty basic job except for getting the nut torqued back down correctly.
- Remove drive shaft at pinion end.
- Remove pinion nut with impact and pull off the yoke. May need to tap the yoke to free it.
- Remove seal. Can use a punch to put a small hole in it, then thread in a self tapping screw to give you something to pull on. A claw hammer works fine.
- Clean area. I hit the pinion shaft with a emery cloth to clean it up some. If its real bad you will need to repace it.
- Permatex the seal edges and install. Tap lightly around the edges with a brass punch/drift until it seats fully. You have to make sure you seat it evenly.
- Re-install yoke and nut.
Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

Easy job, you should have no problems.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:15 PM   #4
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D51 06TJ...thanks for the reply. I followed you until the last step.
"Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

I'm lost now...sorry.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:24 PM   #5
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Angry

I have an 04 TJ Sport. 4" lift running 35's.
I think I might have screwed something up. I recently changed my rear pinion seal about two weeks ago. Yesterday while driving to work about 4 miles I noticed that when I was off the gas or not under load I could here a kinda clunking sound not real bad. The sound keeps up with the speed I am traveling. It does not matter if in gear with the clutch in or in nutral with the clutch out. While under load there is no noise. Coming home from work it started getting really bad. Did I do something wrong? Oh ya I went up and played in the snow last weekend. Not real Hard but was going through about 3 feet of snow at times. Did not notice the sound then. HELP!!
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:34 PM   #6
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D51 06TJ...thanks for the reply. I followed you until the last step.
"Here is the catch, you need to reinstall the nut so that there is 10 in-lbs of drag on the yoke. You can make alignment marks on the nut before taking it off to help. Hold the yoke with a large pipe wrench and then re-align the marks when tightening the nut back down. Use an in-lb torque wrench to check the rotational torque needed to rotate the pinion. Tighten in small increments and check torque until you get to 10 in-lbs. Use some thread lock on the threads."

I'm lost now...sorry.
He's telling you how much torque it should take to turn the pinion with the wheels off the ground. (10 in lbs) I believe the torque spec on the pinion nut itself is 150-180 ft/lbs. He is talking about the rotational torque required to spin the pinion. The more torque you put on the pinion nut (and crush sleeve) the harder it will be to turn (rotational torque.) I marked my pinion nut, and torqued the pinion nut to 150 ft/lbs + on my front axle (D30) several months ago and it's been running fine since.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:47 PM   #7
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The Dana 44 does not have a crush sleeve. Torquing the pinon nut to between 160 and 180 ft-lbs. for a Dana 44 after replacing the pinion seal works fine. I just got doing another last weekend, it's not a bad job at all. Personally I don't use RTV but some do for a little added insurance. Permatex Ultra Black is good but Permatex has a brand-new RTV meant specifically to resist the additives contained in most gear lubes so that's what I used on my diff cover. It says Gear Lube or something similar to that on the card. Kragen and Autozone didn't carry it but Pep Boys did.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:28 AM   #8
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Thanks Ageless and Jerry for the clarification and informative info.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:46 PM   #9
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Jerry is the man - helped me with mine last year. It's straight forward. No crush sleeve, just pop the old out and new in. Watch those U-joint bolts as they can get corroded and locked pretty good requiring heat. Why Jeep uses such chintzy small fragile bolts is beyond me - ER yes, I sheared two of mine clean off.
You might have some fun torqueing to 160-180 if you don't have the body weight. Some guys on here joked about having a foot braced on a wheel and hanging off the torque wrench.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:51 PM   #10
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Jerry is the man - helped me with mine last year. It's straight forward. No crush sleeve, just pop the old out and new in. Watch those U-joint bolts as they can get corroded and locked pretty good requiring heat. Why Jeep uses such chintzy small fragile bolts is beyond me - ER yes, I sheared two of mine clean off.
You might have some fun torqueing to 160-180 if you don't have the body weight. Some guys on here joked about having a foot braced on a wheel and hanging off the torque wrench.
LOL...so I should torque it to 170?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:43 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The Dana 44 does not have a crush sleeve. Torquing the pinon nut to between 160 and 180 ft-lbs. for a Dana 44 after replacing the pinion seal works fine. I just got doing another last weekend, it's not a bad job at all. Personally I don't use RTV but some do for a little added insurance. Permatex Ultra Black is good but Permatex has a brand-new RTV meant specifically to resist the additives contained in most gear lubes so that's what I used on my diff cover. It says Gear Lube or something similar to that on the card. Kragen and Autozone didn't carry it but Pep Boys did.
Hey Jerry, I'm having a rough night here...

What if I torqued to say 220 ft/lbs with an impact wrench on accident? lol


Also, I mixed up my front and rear diff pinion seals. They both fit like a glove. Are they in fact swap-able or am I over looking something?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:21 PM   #12
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Hey Jerry, I'm having a rough night here...

What if I torqued to say 220 ft/lbs with an impact wrench on accident? lol


Also, I mixed up my front and rear diff pinion seals. They both fit like a glove. Are they in fact swap-able or am I over looking something?
I've gathered on my own that since it is a shimmed pinion, the torque does not matter as long as it is above 160.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:56 AM   #13
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The FSM calls for a torque of 160-200 ft/lbs.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:15 AM   #14
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The FSM calls for a torque of 160-200 ft/lbs.
But would tightening it past 200 be an issue?
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:35 AM   #15
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But would tightening it past 200 be an issue?
To 220? Probably not immediately but I would back it off and retorque it so it's within spec.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:27 PM   #16
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So I read up on the pinion seal change on a Dana 44 (on several different websites) along with all the arguments back and forth about bearing preset, crush sleeves or shims, about the proper procedure on how to do it. Yakity shmackity, blah blah blah! I get myself all psyched up to do it the proper way. To do it yourself to save money only to screw something else up and cost more money didn't make any sense. Did the whole jack it up, pull the tires, brake pads and rotors and you know what I got for a preload torque? ZERO, nothing, Nadia, Zilch, and the was no play in the pinion shaft. Granted I used a clicking style torque wrench (inch pounds), but even set to zero it didn't click. Waste of time. Just mark everything well, count the threads if there are even enough to count, and have at er. Remember, this is Jeep science.
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:12 PM   #17
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\Granted I used a clicking style torque wrench (inch pounds), but even set to zero it didn't click. Waste of time. Just mark everything well, count the threads if there are even enough to count, and have at er. Remember, this is Jeep science.
You can't use a click style torque wrench even if it is in/lbs.

This a D44. No crush sleeve, so no need to worry about counting threads. I will bet a paycheck that you couldn't see the difference between 150 ft/lbs and 180 ft/lbs even if you marked the threads. There is so little movement at that point you can't be sure you are where you need to be.

In addition, pinion nuts are designed to be one use nuts. Meaning when you take it off, you replace it with a new one. They are deformed slightly to give a bite an lock onto the pinion threads. Some say you can get away with re-using it if you loc-tite it....your call. I've heard enough about pinion nuts backing off that I'll replace it every time.

Torque it to spec and call it a day.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:23 PM   #18
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Has anybody else run into the problem of the seals the parts store gives you being the wrong size. I went in Monday to round up the parts, but they didn't have a cover gasket. Would be in the next day. So I took my seal and lube home and just for sh*ts and giggles I crawled under the jeep to do a little clean up and eyeballed the new seal compared to the old, and it was not the same. When I went back to the parts store for the gasket I took the seal back and told them it was not the right one. They gave me the other option that their computer screen suggested, grabbed my gasket and headed home to do some wrenching. Turns out that the new seal was incorrect also. It was a nice day for a bike ride, (with old seal, drive shaft yoke, and diff identification tag in hand), cause now the Jeeps apart. After a bit of searching I suggest he bring up the seal for the front diff. Bingo! I guess I have one of the Jeeps that was slated for all wheel steering.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:26 PM   #19
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P.S. Is that some kind of a military insignia. My dad was in the 381st bomber group.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:27 PM   #20
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P.S. Is that some kind of a military insignia. My dad was in the 381st bomber group.
Yeah, it's my granddad's from WWII. He was with the 508th and did bomber escorts and bombed targets of opportunity if they didn't get in a clash beforehand.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:55 PM   #21
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Sweet! Maybe escorted my dads group. Where would we be without those tough old birds. Hats off to all in the military.

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