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Old 07-09-2009, 09:45 PM   #1
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Differential/Transmission Fluids

I know this is covered but I need to know since I am doing this Saturday.

I would like to know how much and what kind is best for.

From some online research I found for the differential is, 2 bottles of SAE 80W-90 GL5 Gear Oil. I am thinking this is 2 bottles for each axle?

Differential fluid. Front, Dana 30, Rear, Dana 44 Limited Slip(<does this make a difference in the fluid?)

I am also doing the radiator but I guess that is one bottle?
Transmission Fluid for Manual 6spd

Thanks

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Old 07-09-2009, 10:59 PM   #2
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Diff fluid: 4 pints in the 44. In PA, using 80W90 should be ok (here in SOCAL, I use 85W140). The 30, I can't remember, but it's less than 4 pints. The aftermarket guys warranty their stuff with an additive for the LSD but Jeep doesn't call for it in the manual (I don't use any).

For the tranny, which one? Or, what year and manual or auto?

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Old 07-09-2009, 11:49 PM   #3
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06 Manual 6 spd.

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2009, 02:00 AM   #4
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If your rear Dana 44 has the optional Tracloc limited slip differential, it needs a friction modifier additive in the gear lube.

BUT... most GL-5 gear lubes (GL-5 is the type of gear lube an axle requires) already have the additive so if the gear lube already has the additive as it probably does, don't add more additive separately. If it has the additive, as most do, the back label will say something like "compatible with limited slip differentials".

Recent findings on gear lubes are that the harder the axle gets used, the more you should go with a conventional gear lube and steer clear of synthetic gear lubes that tests indicate don't cool the gears as well.

Edit: If your rear axle doesn't have a Tracloc limited slip differential, it's still ok to run a gear lube that contains the limited slip friction modifier additive which is compatible with all axle types. In fact, many gear professionals believe the friction modifier additive can help the gears to run a bit cooler.
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Old 07-10-2009, 02:21 AM   #5
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So you cn use the same gear oil in the front and back if it has the friction modifier?
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Old 07-10-2009, 03:21 AM   #6
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So you cn use the same gear oil in the front and back if it has the friction modifier?
Yessir.

The 30 takes a hair less than the 44. 44 is something like 1.8 quarts and the 30 is 1.5.

The radiator will hold about 2 gallons of 50/50.
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:25 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
If your rear Dana 44 has the optional Tracloc limited slip differential, it needs a friction modifier additive in the gear lube.

BUT... most GL-5 gear lubes (GL-5 is the type of gear lube an axle requires) already have the additive so if the gear lube already has the additive as it probably does, don't add more additive separately. If it has the additive, as most do, the back label will say something like "compatible with limited slip differentials".

Recent findings on gear lubes are that the harder the axle gets used, the more you should go with a conventional gear lube and steer clear of synthetic gear lubes that tests indicate don't cool the gears as well.

Edit: If your rear axle doesn't have a Tracloc limited slip differential, it's still ok to run a gear lube that contains the limited slip friction modifier additive which is compatible with all axle types. In fact, many gear professionals believe the friction modifier additive can help the gears to run a bit cooler.
I just changed my gear lube yesterday and didn't think to look and see if the oil already had the friction additive...it did. Do I need to change it again or will it be ok to run with two doses of the additive?
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:37 AM   #8
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OK thanks. I was to though regarding the radiator fluid not to use 50/50 (don't remember why) but straight regular fluid.

Jerry, thanks for the note on the synthetic and gears, that is an interesting point..Any write ups?
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:41 AM   #9
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I just changed my gear lube yesterday and didn't think to look and see if the oil already had the friction additive...it did. Do I need to change it again or will it be ok to run with two doses of the additive?
If your LSD starts acting differently or chattering, change it. If not, it's likely ok.
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:09 PM   #10
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This is what I use:

Engine:
Castrol Syntec (or mobile 1, whatever) 10w30 - 6 liters


Dana44 rear axle, Dana30 front axle,
Mobile 1 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 3.5 quarts total (3.3 liters):

You need a tube of black liquid gasket, brake cleaner, paper towels, and a plastic putty knife to scrape the old gaskets off. Oh and a rubber mallet to break the old gasket off.



Transmission (NSG370)
Royal Purple Synchromax - 1.7 quarts (1.6 liters):

The transmission requires those large hex attachments for your socket wrench. (14mm and 17mm?) The transmission is even easier than changing the oil.
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasWrangler View Post
This is what I use:

Engine:
Castrol Syntec (or mobile 1, whatever) 10w30 - 6 liters


Dana44 rear axle, Dana30 front axle,
Mobile 1 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 3.5 quarts total (3.3 liters):

You need a tube of black liquid gasket, brake cleaner, paper towels, and a plastic putty knife to scrape the old gaskets off. Oh and a rubber mallet to break the old gasket off.



Transmission (NSG370)
Royal Purple Synchromax - 1.7 quarts (1.6 liters):

The transmission requires those large hex attachments for your socket wrench. (14mm and 17mm?) The transmission is even easier than changing the oil.
could you verify those sizes for the transmission. I cant seem to locate the size for the transmission or the transfer case drain/fill plugs. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:27 PM   #12
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could you verify those sizes for the transmission. I cant seem to locate the size for the transmission or the transfer case drain/fill plugs. Thanks for the info.
Verified. Just climbed under the Jeep and tested them. 14 and 17. The 17 is for the drain plug and 14 is for the fill.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:53 PM   #13
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Verified. Just climbed under the Jeep and tested them. 14 and 17. The 17 is for the drain plug and 14 is for the fill.
you are my hero. I was dealing with this problem today. Thank you.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:58 PM   #14
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Thanks for all. Actually me and a buddy did it today and everything went smooth.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:28 AM   #15
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how difficult is it to change the fluid in your differential's?
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:55 AM   #16
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Very easy unbolt cover into drain bucket. replace gasket rebolt and refill.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:10 AM   #17
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There are already good instructions on how to do it....just search on here or google. It's not difficult, but the write-ups will give you tips to make it easier. And they have pictures...I like pictures.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:42 AM   #18
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Can anyone comment on automatic transmission fluid change? Is it simply drain and fill? Is replacing the filter mandatory?
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:13 PM   #19
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Auto fluid change is pretty easy. Just loosen & drop the pan slowly, let the fluid drain out of it, new filter, new gasket, pan back on and fill. Just did mine last friday took all of 30 minutes. If you have the transfer case skid you'll haveta remove that, pretty easy just 3 bolts on each side and 4 transmission mount bolts in the middle. Careful though cuz that thing is HEAVY. I put a jack underneath it to hold it up, and then lowered the jack.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:03 PM   #20
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Can anyone comment on automatic transmission fluid change? Is it simply drain and fill? Is replacing the filter mandatory?
Since you have to drop the tranny pan to change its fluid anyway, yes you should change its filter. The filter is a no-brainer to swap, it is only held in place with 3 machine screws & there's nothing to screw up.

Caution that dropping the pan & then adding ATF to make it full again is only a partial change. The entire transmission including the torque converter and cooler located inside the radiator holds something like 10 quarts, dropping the pan only gets rid of a little over 4 of those 10 quarts.

But there is nothing wrong with a partial ATF change so long as the ATF was not burnt or damaged to begin with. If the ATF smells burnt, like it got overheated, it's best to have the transmission flushed & refilled with all new ATF. You can do that at home but it's a semi-PITA and potentially very messy.

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