Do TJ's usally operate at 210F? - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-11-2012, 01:06 PM   #61
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 29,199
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by arineod View Post
Are there any options to upgrade with a different than stock radiator to keep temps lower?
Lower than what? Is your TJ running significantly hotter than 210 which is the temp it was supposed to run at?

If it is running significantly hotter than 210, there is something wrong and it won't take a different model radiator or other different from OE parts to cure it. When there are no owner-created issues like from lack of care or simply worn out components, the OE cooling system is more than able to keep the temps where they should be in the hottest conceivable conditions.

__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-11-2012, 05:21 PM   #62
Jeeper
 
Dragonii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Lower than what? Is your TJ running significantly hotter than 210 which is the temp it was supposed to run at?

If it is running significantly hotter than 210, there is something wrong and it won't take a different model radiator or other different from OE parts to cure it. When there are no owner-created issues like from lack of care or simply worn out components, the OE cooling system is more than able to keep the temps where they should be in the hottest conceivable conditions.
Yep... Why does everyone want to lower the temp below the 210 that the vehicle was apparently designed to run at?
I say on mine with the engine running and a/c blowing today while I fixed a speaker issue. Even in the summer heart of the south out stayed right at 210 the whole time. Seems to me that it's cooling system it's doing exactly what it was designed to do.

Dragonii is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-11-2012, 05:33 PM   #63
Jeeper
 
99tj707's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 456
Mine is always a hair under 210. Never over though.
99tj707 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 01:49 AM   #64
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: City of New York
Posts: 150
Hey guys. First post. Pleased to meet you. I just bought my first jeep today.
Ok. So optimal operating temp in a 4ltr is 210. That's about where my gauge settles in. Just shy of the half way mark straight up. Buy it runs horribly there. It runs much smoother and quieter at about a third of the way through the gauge. When it reaches operating temp it starts sounding blubbery and rich and the transmission starts feeling sloppy. I was going to stick a 180 in it. But maybe that's not the answer. Also the hood gets so hot I cant touch it.

Hey one more thing. Does super make these engines run funny.
Kewrock is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 02:00 AM   #65
zombie & ninja slayer

WF Supporting Member
 
Redsand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: southern illinois, no where near chicago (allendale)
Posts: 2,153
If you are referring to super unleaded, its a waste. Just put the cheap in it
__________________

"It puts the lotion on its skin or it gets the hose again"
Redsand is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 03:44 PM   #66
Jeeper
 
SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kewrock View Post
Hey guys. First post. Pleased to meet you. I just bought my first jeep today.
Ok. So optimal operating temp in a 4ltr is 210. That's about where my gauge settles in. Just shy of the half way mark straight up. Buy it runs horribly there. It runs much smoother and quieter at about a third of the way through the gauge. When it reaches operating temp it starts sounding blubbery and rich and the transmission starts feeling sloppy. I was going to stick a 180 in it. But maybe that's not the answer. Also the hood gets so hot I cant touch it.

Hey one more thing. Does super make these engines run funny.
Could be your pre-cat o2's. They're bypassed when in open loop and they don't always throw a code.

Don't put a 180* stat in your running temp is normal.

Just use 87 oct anything else is a waste of money.
SeVeReDiStOrTiOn is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 03:50 PM   #67
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 29,199
Images: 2
X3 on 210 being where your engine should be operating at, keep the factory specified 195 degree thermostat in place. And the same goes with staying with 87 octane as your engine was designed for. Not only is a higher octane a waste of $$$, a higher octane can actually make your engine run worse. The higher the octane, the harder it is to ignite, the slower it burns, and the more likely it is likely to leave deposits behind since a high octane fuel is harder/slower to ignite when compared to 87 octane.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 05:03 PM   #68
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Under my Jeep in beautiful upstate N.Y.
Posts: 2,692
Take it from me who has extensive experience.A few years after I bought my XJ 4.0 I was stubborn and had to have mine running cooler than 210.Well I tell ya.After a different t stat,change from mech fan to elec fan(2 different styles) & making a different style shroud I still ran at 210.So dont bother to try to change it.Thats how it is supposed to be.
1jeeplvr is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-22-2012, 10:14 PM   #69
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
shipjim's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 494
The older TJs had a real heat guage don't know when it changed to the idiot guage. My 97 runs a tad under 210. If you really want to cool it down run the heat not air, it'll be really hot in the cab but will cool the engine a bit.
__________________
jj
shipjim is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-26-2013, 06:57 PM   #70
Jeeper
 
GreenTJ4JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Lower than what? Is your TJ running significantly hotter than 210 which is the temp it was supposed to run at?

If it is running significantly hotter than 210, there is something wrong and it won't take a different model radiator or other different from OE parts to cure it. When there are no owner-created issues like from lack of care or simply worn out components, the OE cooling system is more than able to keep the temps where they should be in the hottest conceivable conditions.
I started another thread on this forum (TJ Runs Warm) but didn't get much activity on that and don't have the solution yet. My 04 TJ had always run at or slightly below 210 indicated. Even after I installed the winch, etc and with AC running in very hot temps in the midwest. It's now running warmer - and has even burped the antifreeze on one occasion. So far I've removed the radiator and had it cleaned (I'm told they can't boil it out like the old style ones, so I don't know how much good that actually did), cleaned out the AC Condensor to make sure the air was getting through, replaced TStat, radiator cap and all hoses. If I run below 55 mph the temps stay south of 210. If i go north of 55, it'll run north of 210. And I've given up running the AC. Doesn't make sense that it'll run hotter when running faster; the airflow through the radiator should be greater. I've researched (extensively) other forums as well as this one, and have seen people replacing virtually every component (radiators, fan clutch hubs, electric fans, etc) and almost without exception, those that are doing all these swaps trying to get their TJs to run the same temps at highway speeds as they do at lower speeds has been to no avail.
So here's the key question, and I'm pretty sure someone out there has the mechanical theory understanding to help me (and all others with TJs that run hot on the highway) out -
Given that it used to run perfectly (210 or under) and is now running hotter but only at highway speeds, what fundamental thing could cause that? Let's assume for discussions that radiators are clean (inside and out), t-stats are working, rad caps are building pressure, water pumps are fine (if that was bad, one would think it'd run hotter at lower speeds, not visa-versa), etc. Is there something fundamentally changing with the years and miles in the engine that would cause it to run hot when on the highway? Let's think outside the box; maybe blow-by from worn rings, maybe slight changes in the timing, maybe gradual collection of grunge in the water jacket (think "cholesterol" here), something like this? Other forums lead me to believe there are actually quite a few TJs that run warm on the highway but not at slow speed, but clearly the vast majority of TJs run the same under all circumstances, so something has changed with this one (and the others) through the years. Please help; I'm getting pretty frustrated with my trusty rig.
BTW, I have 4:56s in it, 32" tires, so I'm turning about 2300 at 60 mph in 5th, if that helps. I've maintained my rig faithfully with oil changes, etc. And the colling system has now been gone through (but haven't replaced hub clutch - seems to be working, and haven't replaced pump - it's also functioning as near as I can tell...)
Thanks!
GreenTJ4JC is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-26-2013, 07:05 PM   #71
Jeeper
 
OhSixTJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,018
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenTJ4JC View Post
I started another thread on this forum (TJ Runs Warm) but didn't get much activity on that and don't have the solution yet. My 04 TJ had always run at or slightly below 210 indicated. Even after I installed the winch, etc and with AC running in very hot temps in the midwest. It's now running warmer - and has even burped the antifreeze on one occasion. So far I've removed the radiator and had it cleaned (I'm told they can't boil it out like the old style ones, so I don't know how much good that actually did), cleaned out the AC Condensor to make sure the air was getting through, replaced TStat, radiator cap and all hoses. If I run below 55 mph the temps stay south of 210. If i go north of 55, it'll run north of 210. And I've given up running the AC. Doesn't make sense that it'll run hotter when running faster; the airflow through the radiator should be greater. I've researched (extensively) other forums as well as this one, and have seen people replacing virtually every component (radiators, fan clutch hubs, electric fans, etc) and almost without exception, those that are doing all these swaps trying to get their TJs to run the same temps at highway speeds as they do at lower speeds has been to no avail.
So here's the key question, and I'm pretty sure someone out there has the mechanical theory understanding to help me (and all others with TJs that run hot on the highway) out -
Given that it used to run perfectly (210 or under) and is now running hotter but only at highway speeds, what fundamental thing could cause that? Let's assume for discussions that radiators are clean (inside and out), t-stats are working, rad caps are building pressure, water pumps are fine (if that was bad, one would think it'd run hotter at lower speeds, not visa-versa), etc. Is there something fundamentally changing with the years and miles in the engine that would cause it to run hot when on the highway? Let's think outside the box; maybe blow-by from worn rings, maybe slight changes in the timing, maybe gradual collection of grunge in the water jacket (think "cholesterol" here), something like this? Other forums lead me to believe there are actually quite a few TJs that run warm on the highway but not at slow speed, but clearly the vast majority of TJs run the same under all circumstances, so something has changed with this one (and the others) through the years. Please help; I'm getting pretty frustrated with my trusty rig.
BTW, I have 4:56s in it, 32" tires, so I'm turning about 2300 at 60 mph in 5th, if that helps. I've maintained my rig faithfully with oil changes, etc. And the colling system has now been gone through (but haven't replaced hub clutch - seems to be working, and haven't replaced pump - it's also functioning as near as I can tell...)
Thanks!
Your winch is blocking airflow and at highway speeds your engine is running faster which naturally causes it to run warmer. Mine gets up to 230 on the highway (and the needle is between the 1 and the 0 in 210).

You're fine.
OhSixTJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-26-2013, 07:28 PM   #72
Jeeper
 
GreenTJ4JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhSixTJ View Post
Your winch is blocking airflow and at highway speeds your engine is running faster which naturally causes it to run warmer. Mine gets up to 230 on the highway (and the needle is between the 1 and the 0 in 210).

You're fine.
I agree that I probably won't fry the engine, however something has changed as it used to stay at or below 210 even with AC running, etc. And I've had the winch on it for years. It's not like it used to be, and therefore I have concerns that it'll continue to get worse unless I figure out what's happening and fix the root cause...
__________________
2004 TJ, lifted, skidded, winched, ECTED on 32s. DD with a weekend attitude!
GreenTJ4JC is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #73
Full Size Jeep Dr.

WF Supporting Member
 
lindel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The land of Salted Iron
Posts: 1,761
Check, or replace your radiator cap...cheap insurance.
__________________
His: 1999 Flame Red TJ, With a few mods...

Hers: 1987 Grand Wagoneer, stock w/Falken Wildpeak ATs
lindel is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 06-26-2013, 10:37 PM   #74
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
mudmagnet63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Whiskey River OK
Posts: 555
You could also try the sending unit for the temp gauge.
__________________
BAD TOAD

1998 4.0 5 speed, Superior super 35 rear, Superior super 30 front, yukon air lockers x2. 3" Terra Flex suspension lift, 1.25" BL, 1" MML Engo 9K winch, Dick Cepeck Radial F-C 33/12.5/15.
mudmagnet63 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-06-2013, 08:20 PM   #75
Jeeper
 
GreenTJ4JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 34
update; I had the radiator cap pressure checked; it's fine. I replaced the water pump with a OEM pump. Still the same, which is to say runs fine in town but gets a bit hot at highway speeds. So I got the radiator flush chemical and ran it for days/hours per instructions. Ran fine in town, a bit hot at highway speeds, would cool off back in town again. Drained the chemical, installed the T-fitting and did a power back-flush until everything ran clear. Installed the expensive, OEM-recommended HOAT antifreeze (Zerex G05) and, believe it or not, it runs HOTTER now than it ever has! How in the world could brand new, expensive anti-freeze cause the whole thing to run HOTTER????? the ONLY thing I haven't changed at this point is the fan hub clutch, which by all accounts, shouldn't have anything to do running hot on the highway. PLEASE HELP!!
__________________
2004 TJ, lifted, skidded, winched, ECTED on 32s. DD with a weekend attitude!
GreenTJ4JC is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-06-2013, 08:26 PM   #76
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 29,199
Images: 2
Are you certain you burped all the trapped air out that was introduced into the cooling system by all that work?
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-06-2013, 08:28 PM   #77
Full Size Jeep Dr.

WF Supporting Member
 
lindel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The land of Salted Iron
Posts: 1,761
Now that you've done all the draining/flushing, you need to make sure there's no/minimal air in the system. What you could be looking at is a hot spot, or an air pocket.
__________________
His: 1999 Flame Red TJ, With a few mods...

Hers: 1987 Grand Wagoneer, stock w/Falken Wildpeak ATs
lindel is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-06-2013, 11:45 PM   #78
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ohio
Posts: 120
Images: 1
rust will build over time in the water jackets..a simple flush will not get it all out..i dont care what any one says..its just part of the system..(think "cholesterol" here)
04Xtj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-07-2013, 09:39 AM   #79
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Under my Jeep in beautiful upstate N.Y.
Posts: 2,692
Without reading thru all the posts have you checked to be sure there isnt any cyl pressure making its way into the cooling sys?
1jeeplvr is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-07-2013, 10:02 AM   #80
Sponsoring Vendor

WF Supporting Member
 
Black Magic Brakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenTJ4JC View Post
I started another thread on this forum (TJ Runs Warm) but didn't get much activity on that and don't have the solution yet. My 04 TJ had always run at or slightly below 210 indicated. Even after I installed the winch, etc and with AC running in very hot temps in the midwest. It's now running warmer - and has even burped the antifreeze on one occasion. So far I've removed the radiator and had it cleaned (I'm told they can't boil it out like the old style ones, so I don't know how much good that actually did), cleaned out the AC Condensor to make sure the air was getting through, replaced TStat, radiator cap and all hoses. If I run below 55 mph the temps stay south of 210. If i go north of 55, it'll run north of 210. And I've given up running the AC. Doesn't make sense that it'll run hotter when running faster; the airflow through the radiator should be greater. I've researched (extensively) other forums as well as this one, and have seen people replacing virtually every component (radiators, fan clutch hubs, electric fans, etc) and almost without exception, those that are doing all these swaps trying to get their TJs to run the same temps at highway speeds as they do at lower speeds has been to no avail.
So here's the key question, and I'm pretty sure someone out there has the mechanical theory understanding to help me (and all others with TJs that run hot on the highway) out -
Given that it used to run perfectly (210 or under) and is now running hotter but only at highway speeds, what fundamental thing could cause that? Let's assume for discussions that radiators are clean (inside and out), t-stats are working, rad caps are building pressure, water pumps are fine (if that was bad, one would think it'd run hotter at lower speeds, not visa-versa), etc. Is there something fundamentally changing with the years and miles in the engine that would cause it to run hot when on the highway? Let's think outside the box; maybe blow-by from worn rings, maybe slight changes in the timing, maybe gradual collection of grunge in the water jacket (think "cholesterol" here), something like this? Other forums lead me to believe there are actually quite a few TJs that run warm on the highway but not at slow speed, but clearly the vast majority of TJs run the same under all circumstances, so something has changed with this one (and the others) through the years. Please help; I'm getting pretty frustrated with my trusty rig.
BTW, I have 4:56s in it, 32" tires, so I'm turning about 2300 at 60 mph in 5th, if that helps. I've maintained my rig faithfully with oil changes, etc. And the colling system has now been gone through (but haven't replaced hub clutch - seems to be working, and haven't replaced pump - it's also functioning as near as I can tell...)
Thanks!
I just had one with a similar issue. 70,000 miles and started running warm at speed when it was being worked hard like climbing a grade.

I didn't shotgun it, I checked the system and at first the only thing I could find that was suspect was the OEM thermostat had a stuck bleeder which let air pockets develop when I was trying to flush it.

Replaced it but during the flush I noticed that the radiator would drain very slowly or 3 or 4 times longer than it normally takes.

I also pulled the water pump and inspected it and reinstalled it.

I had the AC serviced because it didn't seem like it was cycling enough.

Still ran warm so I replaced the radiator cap and radiator with new OEM. It is fine now and for the record, I only use the "special coolant" from the dealer.

Also know that if you do a flush, you need to check the mix with a tester. If you mix it 50/50 the water left in the block will drop that to about 60/40.
__________________
I am Savvy, I am the brake Wizard.
http://blackmagicbrakes.com
Black Magic Brakes is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-07-2013, 10:14 AM   #81
Jeeper
 
Todd H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 111
Mine overheated for the first time yesterday while driving down the highway. Flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat. Now she runs about 195-200 all the time. Before that she ran at 210 or a hair higher all the time.
Todd H is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-07-2013, 11:15 AM   #82
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 29,199
Images: 2
Hopefully you used the factory specified 195 degree model thermostat.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-07-2013, 01:00 PM   #83
Jeeper
 
Todd H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 111
Local parts place only had a 180 unfortunately. And since I need it to drive to work it'll have to do until I can put a 195 in.
Todd H is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 09:55 AM   #84
Jeeper
 
GreenTJ4JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
I just had one with a similar issue. 70,000 miles and started running warm at speed when it was being worked hard like climbing a grade.

I didn't shotgun it, I checked the system and at first the only thing I could find that was suspect was the OEM thermostat had a stuck bleeder which let air pockets develop when I was trying to flush it.

Replaced it but during the flush I noticed that the radiator would drain very slowly or 3 or 4 times longer than it normally takes.

I also pulled the water pump and inspected it and reinstalled it.

I had the AC serviced because it didn't seem like it was cycling enough.

Still ran warm so I replaced the radiator cap and radiator with new OEM. It is fine now and for the record, I only use the "special coolant" from the dealer.

Also know that if you do a flush, you need to check the mix with a tester. If you mix it 50/50 the water left in the block will drop that to about 60/40.
Good information. Thanks. I called the radiator shop and asked them to explain exactly what they did. They can't boil out these new ones (so I was told) so what they did was a power flush frontwards and backwards. He told me that if there were any blockage that it'd show up during the flush. But your statement about it draining slowly caught my eye, because mine does drain slowly. So perhaps I've got blockage in there that the radiator shop didn't catch (or just chose not to reveal??) That might be my next step. BTW, I was pretty careful to burp the system (had the front end 'elevated' on my driveway, and watched the bubble come out) and it runs at proper temp at slower speeds (I diluted the mix; I think I may have been stronger than 50/50, so took out some of the radiator water, put in distilled and now it's protected to -25 and seems to be running like it was - but still hot going down the road...). I'm first going to make sure the hub clutch is spinning hard at higher speeds (I think it is, want to double-check that...) and then maybe I'll just have to go with the new radiator. That seems like a logical place to go at this point. Thanks!
__________________
2004 TJ, lifted, skidded, winched, ECTED on 32s. DD with a weekend attitude!
GreenTJ4JC is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #85
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Bay Area, CA // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,634
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhSixTJ View Post
Your winch is blocking airflow and at highway speeds your engine is running faster which naturally causes it to run warmer. Mine gets up to 230 on the highway (and the needle is between the 1 and the 0 in 210).

You're fine.

This... the faster you go the more air it's deflecting from your radiator.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 10:47 AM   #86
Jeeper
 
mrk130's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Little Ferry NJ
Posts: 90
Did it run at a normal 210 AFTER you installed the winch? The after some time began to get hotter?
Anything you put I front of the radiator can cause it to run hotter on the highway. You can eliminate this possibility by taking it off and driving it. If that's worth the trouble for you.
mrk130 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #87
Jeeper
 
GreenTJ4JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrk130 View Post
Did it run at a normal 210 AFTER you installed the winch? The after some time began to get hotter?
Anything you put I front of the radiator can cause it to run hotter on the highway. You can eliminate this possibility by taking it off and driving it. If that's worth the trouble for you.
Yep, it ran normal for many years after installing the winch. I had a bug screen in front of the radiator, too. It's something that's pretty recent.
__________________
2004 TJ, lifted, skidded, winched, ECTED on 32s. DD with a weekend attitude!
GreenTJ4JC is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 12:18 PM   #88
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 29,199
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenTJ4JC View Post
Good information. Thanks. I called the radiator shop and asked them to explain exactly what they did. They can't boil out these new ones (so I was told) so what they did was a power flush frontwards and backwards. He told me that if there were any blockage that it'd show up during the flush. But your statement about it draining slowly caught my eye, because mine does drain slowly. So perhaps I've got blockage in there that the radiator shop didn't catch (or just chose not to reveal??) That might be my next step. BTW, I was pretty careful to burp the system (had the front end 'elevated' on my driveway, and watched the bubble come out) and it runs at proper temp at slower speeds (I diluted the mix; I think I may have been stronger than 50/50, so took out some of the radiator water, put in distilled and now it's protected to -25 and seems to be running like it was - but still hot going down the road...). I'm first going to make sure the hub clutch is spinning hard at higher speeds (I think it is, want to double-check that...) and then maybe I'll just have to go with the new radiator. That seems like a logical place to go at this point. Thanks!
Perhaps the radiator is getting clogged from an accumulation of hard water (calcium etc.) deposits. Has tap water, which is usually very rich in dissolved minerals, ever been used to mix with the coolant? Using nothing but distilled water to mix with coolant will prevent this kind of blockage.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 02:14 PM   #89
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 15
210 on every jeep I've ever seen. my 94 cherokee laredo, the 98 cherokee sport I was riding in this weekend, and my '04 wrangler. all 210 on the nose. also your OEM temp gauge has 210 right in the middle of it.. unless you're in Canada where it reads 100.
nicholas.c is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-08-2013, 04:28 PM   #90
Jeeper
 
Neil F.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Marlton, NJ
Posts: 4,593
Images: 1
And I don't believe my dash gauge. On my Scangauge it normally runs 197 and does climb up on the highway to 215 in hot weather. The dash needle has usually looked fairly close to the Scangauge but this weekend I was really pushing it do 80 in really hot weather up hills and the Scangauge showed 227 at it's hottest and that needle stayed at a hair over the 210 mark.

__________________
2003 TJ, 33" BFG AT, 2" BL, 2" BDS spring lift, 55w DDM HIDs
Neil F. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:13 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC