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Old 05-04-2008, 01:22 PM   #1
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driveshaft vibration

ok, this is my probem. i installed 4" suspension with a t-case drop kit. i get a bad vibration during acceleration and slight vibration when coasting. i have adjusted pinion angle to the same as the t-case output shaft. i think my problem is the driveshaft is too short. the slip yoke can wiggle on the output shaft where i can move it by hand. i would guess since there is some play there is where i'm having the problem. anyone else have to lengthen the driveshaft to make it work?

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Old 05-04-2008, 01:36 PM   #2
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Just personal opinion, but I'd NEVER install a 4in. lift with ONLY a t-case drop.

SYE with a CV driveshaft will solve your problems; also remember to replace your u-joints now.

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Old 05-04-2008, 01:43 PM   #3
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x2!

i would definitely get a sye and cv driveshaft (and rear adjustable uppers).

at least you can get a hack n' tap. its only $100 bucks and it will convert the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and allow you to run the cv driveshaft. a full sye will replace the output shaft which makes it stronger but i know a few guys that run the hack n' tap with no problems. it would be strong enough for my kind of wheeling.
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Old 05-04-2008, 01:58 PM   #4
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i just did the u-joints today. my problem is money is getting scarce. what do you mean by hack n' tap? is it really a terrible idea to go get a new driveshaft made like 2" - 2 1/2" inches longer?
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:07 PM   #5
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the hack n' tap is a sye (but it keeps the stock output shaft. which is fine for my moderate wheeling). it converts it from a slip yoke to a fixed yoke and lets you run a cv driveshaft. it will get rid of all vibes and let you lose the transfer case drop.
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:29 PM   #6
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and i find such a thing where?
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stalin440 View Post
and i find such a thing where?
x2? Tell me more.
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:50 PM   #8
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nevermind, just looked at the install of a hack n' tap. looks like it would suck to have to do that. i just think making a longer driveshaft to get the yoke farther on the shaft would work. correct me if i'm wrong and before i do something stupid.
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:24 PM   #9
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A long driveshaft will still not accommodate the severe angle the shaft is putting on the u-joint.
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by stalin440 View Post
nevermind, just looked at the install of a hack n' tap. looks like it would suck to have to do that. i just think making a longer driveshaft to get the yoke farther on the shaft would work. correct me if i'm wrong and before i do something stupid.
Im not too sure on that, but if it was that easy, I think alot of people wouldnt spend the time and cash on the SYE. I think you should save and invest in the SYE. Thats why I havent done the big lift yet because I dont need any problems since its my DD and Im strapped for the loot.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:01 PM   #11
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A long driveshaft will still not accommodate the severe angle the shaft is putting on the u-joint.
severe angles are not the problem.... yet...... my problem is that the slip yoke is so far out near at the end of the output shaft that it wobbles and gives the driveshaft play. resulting in an out of balance driveshaft. i believe if the yoke was on farther then it would not be able to wobble.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:36 PM   #12
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You're not getting it... you'd be trying to fit a longer shaft into a space that won't be getting any longer.

Either drop your skid some more, or pony up for an SYE and new shaft.
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzTJ View Post
You're not getting it... you'd be trying to fit a longer shaft into a space that won't be getting any longer.

Either drop your skid some more, or pony up for an SYE and new shaft.
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:33 PM   #14
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of course i'm not getting it........this is what your saying: buy sye, which most in turn shorten the t-case. then i have to pay more to buy a longer drive shaft. which is what i'm trying to achieve in the first place.

right now my slip yoke is hanging on by 1 inch, a little beating on it could rip the splines right off the shaft. hence the drive shaft is too short and wobbling.

i unbolt the driveshaft from the differential and slide it up on the t-case farther and thens there is no more wobble. the t-case shaft length is 4 1/2 inches of travel for the yoke to slide on, and mines using the last inch. so explain to me why i can't have a driveshaft made an 1 1/2 longer so the yoke will set on the shaft correctly. my drive angles are not bad.

cost of sye from AA- $282 + cost of buying a longer driveshaft
cost of custom building longer shaft- $80-100 bucks
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stalin440 View Post
cost of sye from AA- $282 + cost of buying a longer driveshaft
cost of custom building longer shaft- $80-100 bucks
As apposed to buying a new t-case...about $1000
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:10 PM   #16
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storks auto- rebuilt t-case $400

i understand the whole sye idea, and yes they are good. but in my last post i explained i don't have the vibration from bad driveline angles, my driveshaft is not long enough to keep the yoke on the output shaft. so until someone explains why lengthening my driveshaft is bad idea, i'm not gonna dismiss it. having a longer driveshaft made to fit won't break the t-case. it would set the slip yoke where it was before there was a lift and not dangling at the end of the output shaft.
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:36 PM   #17
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x2? Tell me more.
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...p?prod=RE-1807

you do have to drill and tap to install this. but oh well. i'll have someone help me install it since its my first time.
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Old 05-04-2008, 08:10 PM   #18
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Jaming the tcase because of the longer shaft?
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Old 05-04-2008, 08:20 PM   #19
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that could happen if the new drive shaft would be too long. if i had a shaft made an 1 1/4" longer than what it is now, it would set the yoke halfway on the output shaft. giving it the ability to move forward or back as the suspension moves, yet not nearly falling off the end like it is right now.
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Old 05-04-2008, 08:30 PM   #20
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try it out and if it works great, then you'll give everyone hope. If it doesnt work, go to JeepsUnlimited cuz you'll get flamed afterwards.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:43 PM   #21
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Well if you go back a page or two you will find that I posted the same question about a week ago.I had very slight vibes going down the road around 50-55MPH and had real bad vibes(jumping and thrashing) when ever I gassed it real hard.Now you can say it is not because of the sever angle of the shaft all you want but it is.Now you may also have a one in a million that has an inch shorter stock drive shaft than anybody else's and lengthening the shaft may help some but I can tell you that it will not cure it.I raised mine 4"s also and had no vibes at all before the lift even though it had a 2" BB in it before but after going to the 4" I had my T-case jumping up and down.Now I have mine pretty much vibe free Almost!!!! I did have a busted tranny mount that was causing the jumping of the T case but I also dropped the T-case to 1.25" and went with a 1" MML and it is a lot better with no vibes at any speed but it has a slight vibe from the motor alone now.I got the poly type MML and tranny mount and they are quite a bit stiffer than the stock rubber ones so until they brake in and loosening up some I have to deal with the vibes from the motor and that is setting still once I move all the vibes are gone but I do plan on and the SYE and CVD sometime soon.Because the angle on the DS is hard on everything.
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Old 05-04-2008, 11:33 PM   #22
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of course i'm not getting it........this is what your saying: buy sye, which most in turn shorten the t-case. then i have to pay more to buy a longer drive shaft. which is what i'm trying to achieve in the first place.
The reason for the slip in the "slip yoke" is to accommodate the driveshaft's moving while the suspension cycles. If you fill that with a longer driveshaft, you'll get other binding issues.

The reason for the SYE & CV type shaft is to shorten the transfercase and lengthen the driveshaft for a less severe angle. Because as you move those to ends apart(t-case & axle) the angle lessens. The other reason is to change the location of the "slip" to the center of the driveshaft.

Here is my rear CV driveshaft.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:34 AM   #23
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vibes smibes.. I have an sye and tw ds.. I still get harmonic vibes at 45-55 mph during acceleration.. I tried everything.. I though the vibes dissappeared, after the instal but I still slightly feel it anf hear it.. I had the pinion angle dead on and 1-2* lower.. nothing helped.. I even had it rebalanced.. it was -75 oz off but the vibes was still there.. Its not the front it is definately the rear.. I disconnected the rear.. and the vibes were gone.. Nothing helped.. Trust me I tried everything that was suggested.. the DS pro shecked it out also with it installed.. he cannot figure it out.. its annoying.. after 500 dollars.. spent..

o and I even tried it with a 1/2'' tc drop.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:37 AM   #24
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try lowering your tcase a little more

if your like me you cant afford the sye
the hackntap is nice but its $90 for the hack n tap and $300 for the drive shaft
you only save about $100 compared to the heavy duty sye
you can also do the 1" motor mount lift and the tranny mount lowering mount
along with you tcase lowering kit that will put less angle on your drive shaft

I have the 4" lift and I do have some vibration but I have had the vibration since I put the D44 in my drive shaft is still the D35 driveshaft
once I can afford the $500-$600 I will have the sye
right now I have to buy new tires even though I just bought some 2months ago the maxxis big horn tires hold up like BFG mud tires out here
you cut the sidewall everytime you go out
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Old 05-05-2008, 02:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
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AzTJ, thats beautiful
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:41 AM   #26
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my to case is already lowered an 1 1/2". i wish i had only small vibes at certain speeds. my shakes like hell at all speeds do to the yoke being so loose. well, i hope uncle sam gets those checks sent out soon. $600 bucks would get a sye underway.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:18 PM   #27
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AzTJ, thats beautiful
Did it right off the bat, not pussy footing and putting it off till later.

Then I only need a new shaft when I stretch it.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:33 PM   #28
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Then I only need a new shaft when I stretch it.
Are you trying to hit the 100" mark?
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:40 PM   #29
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did a quick test run in 4 high with no rear driveshaft hooked up. drove pretty good, slight vibes at about 55 mph. not to bad for having a big dent in the front driveshaft. i'll hold out a week or 2 and pick up a sye and new driveshaft. found some on ebay, whole kit for $499 and free shipping
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:55 PM   #30
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4x4groupbuy has a sye and cv shaft for $465. you'll have to check on shipping

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/adv...aft-p-115.html

don't forget the rear adjustable uppers if you don't already have them

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