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Dropping fluids fast

3K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  rgreen65 
#1 ·
My Wrangler is 1 year old (to me) and came serviced from a reputable dealer (no longer under their limited warranty). It's a second car, so I've done limited mileage, maybe 2,000 miles in past year.

This weekend I took her out for the 4th, about 1 hour 30 min drive from home. Not problems, she is running great.

Below are some pictures of the fluids I found in the garage, all brand new. Pulled her in the driveway and already have some puddles there.

It is VERY spread out and concerning. I work on the Wrangler, but it's my first car doing so and I'm limited in any car expertise. Learning as I go.

Any thoughts, suggestion or advice would be appreciated.

A lot of the fluid appears to be reddish in nature. I think some may also be more brown, but hard to tell what is just dirty.

Check the fluids under the hood. Oil is just at the "add line" and it isn't really time yet for an oil change. The transmission dipstick appears bone try!!!! Even the frame seems to be have liquid on it, not sure how that's possible.

Here are some photos:



 
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#4 ·
Pretty clear to me that you have a transmission leak since the stick is dry and there are puddles of ATF.

Get your worst clothes on and get under it and see if you can figure out where it's leaking. For it to be a sudden thing, and that bad, I would suspect that one of your cooler lines is rusty and failed. If you cant figure it out by looking, clean up the mess under it (the floor and the Jeep itself), start it up, and crawl under it to see where its dripping (after you refill it). Make sure it's in park, set your hand brake, and chock the wheels before getting under it.

If you're not comfortable with that, a tech should be able to diagnose that big of a leak in under an hour, so whatever shop time for an hour and getting it there costs is what you pay to find out the issue. Changing parts is easy. So, no big deal either way. :)
 
#7 ·
Yep you're gonna have to be methodical to find where the leaks are coming from and that starts by thoroughly cleaning off all the accumulated residue. It'll be a simple issue of crawling under the Jeep on daily, if not hourly, basis to discover the true source of the leaks once it's cleaned up. You can't drive it too far between checks since the wind blows the leaking lubricants around disguising their sources.
 
#8 ·
Block you tires, Emergency brake on. Get a clear face shield, a few cans of brake cleaner,some big sheets of cardboard and spray down any thing that is wet. Do so untill dry. Buy a good bright flash light. Then start it up and look at the trans-maybe need a small mirror too. After you see where that is comming from, be sure to check the power steering box-it is way up front by the frt axle. You may have to drive some before you find where the axle is leaking (if so).
 
#9 ·
Block you tires, Emergency brake on. Get a clear face shield, a few cans of brake cleaner,some big sheets of cardboard and spray down any thing that is wet. Do so untill dry.
I get where you're coming from, but I've about killed myself twice with too much aerosol spray under a vehicle doing stuff like that.

Safer, and cheaper, method is to just get a spray bottle of Simple Green and some rags and wipe it all down. Then put it in the driveway (I'd push it, personally) and hose it all off under there.

Not trying to break balls kawzak, but like I said, I've done that before and it wasn't good.
 
#10 ·
That's why he said to use a face shield. I don't know if Simple Green would have the power to get accumulated grime off.

If this were mine, the first thing I would do is use the other vehicle to go get some ATF, kitty litter and Carb cleaner and a stop at the dollar store for some inexpensive white plastic table cloths (about $1). ATF for the trans, kitty litter and carb cleaner to clean the garage floor. With the transmission back full back it out and clean the garage, then put down the white cloth on the floor and then drive slowly around the block and up into the garage on top of the cloth. This will give you a much better idea what is leaking and where.
 
#11 ·
That's why he said to use a face shield. I don't know if Simple Green would have the power to get accumulated grime off. .
A face shield won't save your lungs. A respirator also can't create oxygen out of chemicals. During my worst event I was wearing a respirator...

Simple Green will work. I've used it to clean dozens of ancient grease slicks on '70s cars. His oil slick from today will come off just fine. To be honest just some clean rags might be OK.

If I'm wrong he's out $3 and some time. I'm OK with that vs. the alternative.
 
#13 ·
If that's what you want to do, call AAA and get a membership today and have it hooked tomorrow. 1 yr is like $80, which is pretty much the cost of a tow and you get the benefits of it for the rest of the year (check the different plans and such in your area to make sure you get the one you need... also, you may have free towing on your car insurance already so you may not even need AAA). I wouldn't drive it in.

I hope I didn't put you off of working on your Jeep over safety concerns. It's just if you're going to do it, do it safe. That's all I was driving at and there is a way to do it safe in all events. I take no risks these days. Too many close calls.
 
#15 ·
ZOIKS
Thanks for your help. Was way over my head. Here is the news and quotes:

Transmission lines ruptured. Cost to replace: $875
Transmission pan rotted. Cost to replace: $350 w/ filter fluid & Gasket
Radiator leaking. Cost to replace: $585

Other parts that are recommended to need attention:
Steering tie rod at Pittman arm $225
Ball joints: $1,100
Front axle track bar: $365
LR axle seal leaking: $345
Rear sway bar end links: $240

This is what they feel is to bring the Jeep to tip top shape, not all are needed immediately. This is all a foreign language to me and no clue on prices.
 
#18 ·
Transmission lines ruptured. Cost to replace: $875
Transmission pan rotted. Cost to replace: $350 w/ filter fluid & Gasket
Radiator leaking. Cost to replace: $585

Probably right

Other parts that are recommended to need attention:

Steering tie rod at Pittman arm $225 In the neighborhood
Ball joints: $1,100 Yeah right
Front axle track bar: $365 No way, do it yourself for 125

Rear sway bar end links: $240 10x the price, do it yourself

This is what they feel is to bring the Jeep to tip top shape, not all are needed immediately. This is all a foreign language to me and no clue on prices.
Don't do it from this guy lol
 
#17 ·
this is definitely a rip off. this part costs a few dollars. Personally, I have mine zip tied and it's been holding fine for the last 3 years. The bushing is plastic and will just break again. My friend has broken two in the last 3 years and decided to just zip tie it.

Just keep a few zip ties on the glove box.

I just wouldn't pay 110 for this.
 
#23 ·
The radiator is one of the easiest to do. It will also flush and fill the system with fresh coolant. You can get either and after market OE style radiator for $112, an OEM Mopar on for $278 or $348 for a "heavy duty" one.

Cooling Systems and Flexibles 3244 - CSF OE Replacement Radiator with Plastic Tank & Aluminum Core for 03-04 Jeep® Wrangler TJ with 2.5L/4.0L - Quadratec

RockAuto Parts Catalog

Cooling Systems and Flexibles 2578 - CSF Heavy Duty Copper Tank Radiator for 87-04 Jeep® Wrangler YJ, TJ & Unlimited with 2.5L/4.0L - Quadratec

You did not specify what year TJ and which engine, so you need to check the fits. Replacing a radiator is something even I can do. It is a little time consuming, but you don't get underneath, you don't have to worry about alignment, etc. Remove hoses (draining system) remove over flow tubes, remove fasteners, take radiator out. Insert new radiator and reverse process. Of course you do have the transmission line, the one that is ruptured.

The part number for the radiator for 2000-2004 with 42RLE Trans is 5503-7653AB

Quadratec has a Skyjacker high capacity transmission pan, filter, gasket and drain plug for the 97-02 Wrangler for $141 and it even comes with instructions. I do know that the majority of the cost is going to be the labor getting the skid plate off to gain access.

The lines from the transmission to the radiator have several parts. Part of the run is pre-bent aluminum tubing, if that is damaged and leaking it is the expensive part. The last bit up close to the radiator is probably rubber tubing. That is the inexpensive part. We go back to clean it up and track the leak. You really need to know the exact area it is leaking. Anytime you say the magic words "automatic transmission" and "leak" some shops see $$$$$.

Once you know whether it is the rubber tubing or pre-bent aluminum tubing leaking, you will know what to ask when calling around. But, I do not see any way the replacement of the lines should cost $875 unless he was figuring the cost of bending new aluminum lines instead of buying the part. The Mopar parts price for the aluminum lines on a 2003 Wranger is $140, the one rubber line section is $20 (the other one is not listed, but if it is 1/4 tubing it is used all through a vehicle - vacuum lines, gas lines and transmission lines and can be bought at any auto parts house by the foot.

Here is a good source to find the parts number of the OEM parts on your Jeep.
Chrysler Parts - Call 800-385-0735 for Genuine OEM Chrysler Parts Parts and Accessories

Here is another source for OEM parts numbers and pricing. Their diagrams are not as good.
Mopar Parts | Dodge Parts | Jeep Parts | Chrysler Parts | Ram Truck Parts | Wermopar

Again, ask around among your friends for info on good trust worth transmission shops. Almost any shop can do the replacement of pan, filter and lines, but some may charge a lot more. If you know the exact part of the lines leaking you can narrow down the cost.

If you were in S. Georgia I know exactly who I would send you to for the suspension work - the same people who would do mine and where I get my tires. I have dealt with this tire shop for over 25 years, and they also do suspension work as well. If the mechanic called the rod from the pittman arm to the right front steering knucke the "tie rod" thats another reason not to go to him. That's the drag link. The tie rod goes between the two front knuckles. You then have the track bar that goes from the right front steering knuckle to the frame on the left side. (This bar if it gets loose is what causes the infamous Death Wobble). The track bar is what keeps the front axle from wandering left and right. The drag has the adjustment collar and adjusting that adjusts the steering wheel alignment.

Here is a very good primer on the suspension and the parts.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/d...fixing-non-dw-shimmies-and-wobbles-78034.html
 
#24 ·
Wow, thanks for the detailed response, I'll read in greater detail when time permits to give it the attention in deserves.

Car is a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon with 4.0L V6, automatic (Sahara edition)
Frame and most of the car is in excellent shape. 85,000 miles.

They said the trans lines rusted and burst which leads me to believe it's not the rubber pieces. They also said bending was bad and they needed to remove the cat to run the lines correctly.

They are certified master mechanics and only work on 2000 and newer Jeeps. Labor is $95 per hour. Shop has perfect 5 star reviews and they appear very knowledgeable. Only use factory OEM parts (or what they deem as better). The right way or not at all.

I don't mind working on the Jeep, I just hate going under a lifted vehicle. My friends that used to help (to at least make me feel more comfortable when working on it) both moved recently.
 
#25 ·
If it is a Rubicon, it says so on the sides of the hood, rock rails on the sides of the body and electrically locking diffs front and rear. The switch is on the instrument panel under the A/C controls and says "Axle Lock".

If it is a Sahara, it will have side steps, not rock rails and will say Sahara on the quarter panels and the sides of the hood should be blank and will have a blank cover where the "axle lock" switch would be and body color flares. While the Sahara package is trim, the Rubicon package has most of it's goodies underneath.

If you want all the nitty gritty details of what is on your vehicle, here is an excellent decoder for Chrysler vehicles. It is on a Dodge forum, but it works just fine on our Jeeps as well. VIN Decoder - DodgeForum.com

Actually, working on a lifted vehicle is safer than working on one at stock height. If all four wheels are on the ground, you have more room under it, and you won't need jack stands for most of the work.

Each shop has their own specialty. I would not take vehicle to a transmission shop to have an engine rebuild done. While a certified mechanic knows a lot of the generalities, their training tends to specialize. If he is ASE certified he will have the certificates framed and on the wall.

I would seriously use a good local tire shop for the suspension and axle bearing. They do this all the time. Especially one that has a commercial trade. Their rates won't be $95/hour either. If you have a regular tire store you deal with, talk to them about that work.

As to bending tubing, transmission shops do that all the time. I won't swear to it, but most of the transmission cooling tubes I have seen appear to be aluminum not steel. Aluminum does not rust (one reason it is used), however, exposure to salt air and/or water will eat it away. It will corrode and he may have used the term rust rather than corrode. Steel corrodes by rusting, aluminum corrodes by rotting away. If he orders the factory pre-bent tubing, he won't have to do any bending. I would have thought the catalytic converter was farther back than the transmission, but maybe not. Exhaust pipes do tend to get in the way of things further up.

Now that you have the list, call around.

BTW - if it is a Rubi, it is well worth the investment.
 
#26 ·
It's def a Rubi. Deciding hopefully today if I will sell or keep. It's the "Sahara edition" which only came out in 2005 and is a limited 1,000 unit production model run released with the Paramount movie "Sahara" (nothing do to do with the Jeep Wrangler Sahara).

She looks and drive awesome, but I am only doing about 2,000 miles a year, which may not warrant the time and energy I put in (and have a sever lack of lately).
 
#27 ·
I have a 2007 Jeep Wrangler 3.8 liter v6 had a head gasket leak rip their heads off and I found this spot on one of the ports into the block the port gets covered by the head gasket how can I fix this can i just use more gasket sealant to fill that little spot up to make sure it does not leak there anymore or do I need a new block
 

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#29 ·
I looked it up and stand corrected it is rare enough that I had not heard of it before. If it still has the number plate and has a fairly low number, it is a rare item. Definitely worth keeping. If you did not plan on using it as a daily driver, you can pace out the repairs.
 
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