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Old 07-16-2008, 08:07 PM   #331
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it looks so easy and wide open on that image lol

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Old 07-16-2008, 08:41 PM   #332
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if you dont have the precats you might be able to get to it without removign the exhaust. you still may want to remove the Y pipe for ease of access
If there are no pre cats there is no y pipe i think they added the pre cats in 01 or 02,

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Old 07-16-2008, 10:08 PM   #333
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sure you can its called a Y pipe, the pre-cats are built into the y pipe
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Old 07-17-2008, 04:26 AM   #334
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heeeeeeere ya go

I wonder what size plug is that?
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:05 AM   #335
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sure you can its called a Y pipe, the pre-cats are built into the y pipe
I was saying if you dont have the pre cats on the older jeeps theres no y pipe and the plug is not blocked i think.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:11 AM   #336
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I wonder what size plug is that?
most likly 3/8ths
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Old 07-17-2008, 02:45 PM   #337
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ok Rawkon... its confirmed.. the block plug is there.. it is not hard to get to.. just crawl underneeth and use a 3/8 extension.. its located inbetween both cats.. the hard thing is having to drain the radiator and getting all the air out of the cooling system. it appears to be a 3/8th plug.

probably wasting a gal. of gas having it idle to get the air out.

What do you guys think; should I use for that location? the 200 degree temp sensor or the 185?

i'll get at it tomorrow on my day off..
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Old 07-17-2008, 02:51 PM   #338
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its in the motor so i'd assume you should get the 210 degree since it will warm up a bit..
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:05 PM   #339
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typo
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:06 PM   #340
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yeah I wonder how hot it gets in the motor itself. I dont want my fan turning on more than it needs to..


Ill try the 200 degree first and see. I hate having to wire all over the place.. Sigh...

I think what took me the longest to install the fan was to find a clean place to mount the relay and tucking the wires.. I dont want to open my dood and have it look like this.

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Old 07-17-2008, 03:28 PM   #341
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well "THIS" goes in the fuse box. The fuse box is in 2 "boxes". One box is on the bottom and this is where that pic is, the next box is on top and thats where the fuses are.
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Old 07-17-2008, 03:52 PM   #342
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well "THIS" goes in the fuse box. The fuse box is in 2 "boxes". One box is on the bottom and this is where that pic is, the next box is on top and thats where the fuses are.
I know where its from.. just using it as an example.. not trying to poke fun sheesh...

its actually the same wire I used.. for ignition switch.. it goes to the ac clutch relay.. for anyone who is researching..
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:09 PM   #343
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since your gona drain the block, take out your tstat and drill a small hole through the face plate. that will help with air bubbles getting out.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:18 PM   #344
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since your gona drain the block, take out your tstat and drill a small hole through the face plate. that will help with air bubbles getting out.
Good suggestion, just one more thought that the thermostat then needs to be positioned so the hole that was drilled is at the very top so any trapped air can get out more easily.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:17 PM   #345
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Good suggestion, just one more thought that the thermostat then needs to be positioned so the hole that was drilled is at the very top so any trapped air can get out more easily.
ok update. a 3/8th extension is too big and 1/4 is too small.. it is inbetween those size and I dont have the tool.. suggestions?
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Old 08-01-2008, 09:29 PM   #346
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Well while I had the radiator out I decided to go with your alls suggestion and put the fan switch in the block and it worked great theoretically of course since I do not have the aluminum radiator yet to try it all out but also had to replace the water outlet housing because when I went to pull the 38ths nipple out were the factory gage sensor goes it cracked the housing so I went a head and got the water outlet housing,gasket and T-stat along with the aluminum radiator I should be set.Oh and BTW the reason for the new radiator is the old one blew the whole top off.The plastic tank on the top was so brittle you could put your thumb right through it by pushing kind of hard.I broke a piece out of it and you could crumble it by squeezing it in your hand.Anyway I checked on an OE replacement and it was between $126 and 146 so I found an aluminum one on ebay for $164 with shipping and ordered it.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:54 PM   #347
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Ok just an update!!! I got my aluminum radiator today and put it in and as I was saying I had put the fan switch in the block like mentioned on an earlier post Wweeellll Let me start by saying unless you find a cheap Taiwan 3/8 extension and grind it down a little on all four flat sides like I did you won't get that plug in the block out to start with but also even if you do and try this route you had better have at least a 210 fan switch cause my 185 makes the fan kick on before the temp guage even gets to 160.Now this may be cause I have not run it yet other than to circulate the coolant a little so it may still have air pockets that could cause the coolant in the block itself to heat up fast enough to kick the fan on way early but if not the switch in the block idea may not be the way to go.All in all now that I have an aluminum radiator If this way doesn't work I will try to find an aluminum bung to weld into the bottom tank of the radiator.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:57 PM   #348
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Run it with out the cap for a little that helps get some of the air out.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:58 PM   #349
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we need pics.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:29 PM   #350
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Yeah I went over to take pics a little bit ago and instead of pics I got attacked by mosquitoes but I did find my fan switch problem.The reason it came on shortly after I started the Jeep was the wire I ran to the switch was just to check everything to make sure it was going to work ok,well it was laying on the manifold and instead of the switch activating the fan the coating on the wire melted and activated the fan.I knew it had been off long enough the fan should not come on but as soon as I turned the key on the fan came on so I got to checking and found that so I went on and ran the wire right and started it up and let it run and the plug in the block does work.It kicked on around 195 so I will take pics and a drive tomorrow and let ya ll know.I lost to much tranny fluid to drive tonight and do not have any ATF+3 to put back in and it got to dark for pics by the time I ran the wire and all.So pics tomorrow
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:04 PM   #351
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sweet i want to do this and this sound good.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:23 PM   #352
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So far so good!!! No leaks and fan kicks on around 195 and runs quite a bit less now than before with the switch below the guage sensor.Here are the pics!!!
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Old 08-12-2008, 12:42 PM   #353
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Today i looked for the plug underneath the manifold (yes it has it) and it looks wide open to reach on my 00 tj. It doesnt have pre cats, it doesnt even have O2 Sensors on the manifold. lol

Sherman how is it working for ya? The fan turning on and turning off good? You installed yours on the block by the exhaust manifold right?
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:16 PM   #354
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Yeah it works great.The fan kicks on around 195 but runs most of the time because the temp of the coolant in the engine is what it is reading from but all in all it works great.The fan really doesn't draw enough to cause the alternator to put nearly the load the stock clutch fan did so I say let it run.Now that the factory guage sensor is back in the factory location I feel a little better knowing that the guage is showing the true temps.It had to be reading a little low before cause now it is running right at the same temps it did before the E-fan and the new radiator.200-210 but yeah it works great not to mention I hated that bulky looking T fitting sticking up there.You will need a cheap 3/8th extention and grind all four flat sides down just a little so it fits snug in the plug because it is really tight.Also once you have it loose slide away from it before removeing cause even if you have drained everything it will still get you wet
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:26 PM   #355
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see thats what i'm afraid off.. i dont want the fan turning on, then not shutting off because the engine thermostat preventing the cold coolant from entering once it closes.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:32 AM   #356
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that why i wa saying put the gauge sensor in the block and the E fan switch in the radiator. thats my plan anyways
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:19 AM   #357
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What is the big deal with the fan running???? The alternator will NOT put much more of a load on the engine than it does anyway.The fan just does not pull that many amps,even if it did pull a few more amps and put a very minimal extra amount of a load on the motor in isn't even close to the load the clutch fan put on the motor so what is the big deal.You could hook the fan up direct so it ran the whole time the key was on and as long as your alternator wasn't junk you are still not going to pull the engine down nearly as much as the crappy clutch fan did.Now that I have an aluminum radiator I may put the fan switch in the lower tank someday but as for now it just isn't worth trying to find then weld in the bung and all that just to have the fan run a little less.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:21 PM   #358
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because having it run all the time is a waist. Most people bought the e fan so it would turn on only when needed and then shut off when not.
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:41 PM   #359
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A waist of what????Explain to me what it is really waisting(air)The only way I can see to get it to kick on and off like it should (yes I know it should kick on and off just don't see it being a waist of anything)would be to weld a bung in the lower tank but even then you have the trans cooler line to deal with down there (that not only hook up on the outside the cooler runs all the way across the bottom tank on the inside)on autos and then you have the stock radiator with plastic tanks.That is horse of another color.I didn't expect the fan to kick off very often while running from the beginning just not kick on until it gets up to temp and that it does.It is still a lot better than the heavy load the factory fan put on the engine.Plus another up side it the ability to shut off on water crossing.So in my eyes there are more advantages to the E fan than the one disadvantage of it running more often.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:58 PM   #360
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keeping it at the right temp is good for best efficiency

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