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Electric fan coversion

37K views 390 replies 27 participants last post by  dixau11 
#1 · (Edited)
Well I finally got around to putting my electric fan in today.I got the 2700CFM fan,temp switch and relay/wiring kit from Ebay for less than $90 and it works great.It was running around 210-215 before now it runs around 185-195.I choose to go ahead and cut the shroud down and use the top section because of the overflow bottle mount.I will make a mount and do away with the shround completely sometime.I had to make a T fitting for the temp switch and guage sensor to go in so it is a little bulky for now but I will try to find a brass T fitting to do away with the big one that is in it now.But for now it is (Cool):D
 
#3 ·
well it means less strain on the engine and better mpg, and if it is a two speed fan then when you got through streams you can turn it down so it doesn't throw water everywhere

and if you live in the desert or somewhere hot it is good to be able to keep the temp really low, 185, up here i like mine right at 210 when its fricken 0 degrees out!
 
#4 ·
I would not have cut anything out of the fan shroud, you just lost some of your cooling system's efficiency. Without the fan shroud fully surrounding the fan, the fan can't pull air through the radiator nearly as well. I would have figured out some other solution to the overflow bottle's mounting issue. :)
 
#5 ·
The factory fan shroud is useless with an electric fan.The factory fan uses the shroud just because the fan is attached to the water pump there for it is harder to pull air through the radiator because of the distance so the shround just fills in the gap between the radiator and the clutch fan.This fan is right up against the radiator and does not need the shroud.The only loss of air circulation is around the outside of the electric fan and the factory shroud does nothing for that either but they do make a filler shroud for the electric fan but like I said it is running 20-25 degrees cooler anyway I didn't loss anything by cutting the shroud.Besides It was an extra one I had anyway:D Advantages are around 4hp gain,cooler temps and better MPG.
 
#7 ·
Yeah I researched it for a few weeks before I ever bought the stuff to do it.Here ya go!!!Just look around for a little while and you will find a good deal.I paid $56 shipped for my fan and $29 for the temp switch,relay and wiring kit.
http://www.parksoffroad.com/johnsjeep/flexalite/flexalite.htm
http://www.jegs.com/p/Flex-A-Lite/751522/10002/-1
This is a Kia Sportage but same basics http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...age=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=all&vc=1
here is one on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...tps://www.quadratec.com/products/17800_01.htm
http://search.ebay.com/electric-fan-kits_W0QQfkrZ1QQfnuZ1QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ32
 
#373 ·
I might be a little late, but felt it was necessary after reading the entire thread. This link was posted on the first page and would have solved most of the problems that were argued over for so many pages. This solves the "which temperature temp sensor should I use" and the even more amusing "where and how the heck do I mount this temp sensor" This link is for a temp sensor that slides into the fins of the radiator (at the bottom) and is adjustable for what temp to come on. I was hoping that someone would bring this back up, but no one did. Flex-a-lite also has relays to kick the fan on when the A/C comes on, and relays that adjust the amps to the fan to control the speed of the fan according to temperature so it doesnt use spike the amps or use more than necessary.
 
#8 ·
That link for the one on Ebay will not work I just looked at it again and it is 5.5" thick.You need to look for one that is no more than 4.5" thick at the motor and at least 2400 CFM the one I choose is only 3.5" thick and 2700 CFM After seeing how well this thing cools I would not worry a bit about using a 2400CFM rated fan.And as far as cutting the shroud or worrying about getting one with a shroud unless you live in a place that daily temps get to be above 100 in the shade I would not sweat it.You can feel the slight HP gain and the lack of that loud turbine noise the clutch fan made when the clutch was in full lock is gone and it sounds totally different than it did before.I would have to say this is one of the better inexpensive mods I have done so far.
 
#13 ·
Not really the fan is a 16" I just choose to lower it to rest on the bottom of the radiator lip.It mounts with the plastic things like zip ties.Your radiator cores run up and down so the mounting straps slide through the radiator and pulls the fan up against the radiator.I know I was skeptical at first too that is why I let the fan rest on the lower lip but after putting the first one in I knew it would be ok.They have been putting these fans in race cars with $300-$400 radiators for a long time:eek:However I did line the mounting surface of the fan with a felt type tape that I had so it doesn't rub on the rad.The felt gives it a little cushioning between the fan a rad.The factory shroud will be gone as soon as I get my stainless overflow jug.I ordered a stainless 3"x 10" overflow bottle to replace the factory on.It will mount directly to the radiator were the factory shroud bolted before.I will take a few more pics at that time.Once the shroud is gone you will be able to see the fan a little better.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Yeah the factory shroud only remains to hold the overflow bottle right now.Once I get the new bottle the whole shroud will be gone.I only have half of the shroud left after I cut it down and even before I put the shroud back in I started it and was watching to make sure everything work like it should the temp only got to 190 at the same time the fan kicked on.I let it sit there and run and it remained around 185-190.I can not see a reason for the shroud to be there once I get the overflow that will bolt up to were the shroud does now.If you look at the radiator it has two up right steel brackets that hold it in on each side.That is also what holds the shroud but the overflow I am getting will bolt up to that in the same place the shroud bolts are on the driver side.So yeah the shroud will be gone completely.I drove it a little more today and you really can feel a noticeable change in the acceleration.I would not have believed that a clutch fan or even a straight fan would hold back an engine that much.
 
#20 ·
Oh I thought you were saying that we jinxed ya by talking about fans and your overheated or something.:confused:I got mine from ebay.Like I said the fan can be up to 4.5" but it is tight I would try to stay around 3.5-4" and get the 2400-2700 CFM.Now they have the fan and relay,temp switch combo but if you watch for a little while you can find them cheaper by buying separate.
 
#21 ·
That is just the adjustable temp switch and not a good one.That has the probe that goes in were the upper radiator hose goes then you have to put that tape like stuff they send over the copper wire that leads out of the rad then put the hose back over all that and the clamp.It will more than likely leak.I looked at that one and didn't rust that setup.Also you would still need the relay and wiring for the fan plus the fan.Hold on I will check and see if they have any more and I will send a link.
 
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