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Old 06-19-2013, 11:20 AM   #1
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emergency! need your input ASAP please.

Hi wrangler forums. I have an 06wrangler that I just finished putting a lift kit on, on Saturday. Drove it off and the vehicle seemed fine; up untill this morning. This morning I left to go pt before work and I immediately noticed death wobble Everytime I hit the slightest bump in the road or went around 25-30mph or higher. I pulled over. Checked all my components. Nothing seemed wrong or broken with the exception of my front left shock that was a bit loose (the shaking seems to originate from the front left as well, before spreading to the rest of the vehicle) . I also then noticed my check engine light was on. I find it important to note that I also put wheel spacers on when I installed the lift kit. I'll also note that this was a suspension lift that consisted of coil overs, shocks, new sway arm links (front and back), and a new rear track bar relocation bracket. Any ideas on both what's causing the DEATH wobble or my check engine light to come on? So suddenly too. Is this likely one problem causing both issues, or two separate problems causing these two issues. Need to develop a plan of action immediately to solve this. My TJ is my DD and the love of my life lol. I'd like to try and fix this by the end of the weekend if possible. Will be stalking the forums as much as I can during the workday for any additional info you request. Thanks In advance.

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Old 06-19-2013, 11:25 AM   #2
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Also to add, the lift was a 3 inch. But I've heard with my little 2 door it could end up raiding it a bit more than that

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Old 06-19-2013, 11:26 AM   #3
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I would pull the wheels to make sure the wheels and spacers are torqued correctly along with the shocks. Next would be checking the front trackbar at the axle, making sure there's no play .As for the check engine light, you will need to check for codes.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:31 AM   #4
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Hmm. I had planned on doing those two things after work if I got a jack from a buddy that's big enough. So this wouldn't be caused by an alignment issue? Can the wobble/check engine light be caused by my driveshaft not being long enough for the change in geometry?
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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Also how do I check the code?
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:48 AM   #6
Knows a couple things...

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Same tires & wheels? Do a check for something loose in the front-end using this method... with the tires on the ground, have a helper turn the steering wheel back & forth repeatedly. There should not be any side-to-side slop at any of the joints or mounting points. Caution that there will be and there is supposed to be rotational 'play' at the tie rod & drag link so don't worry that you can twist them around their long axis.

One very common root cause of DW is the combination of imperfectly balanced tires & a track bar that is loose at its passenger-side mount. Bigger tires & tires/wheels that are moved outward via spacers or wheels with less backspacing make perfect tire balance even more critical to keeping DW at bay. Also check & adjust your toe-in which will change after installing a suspension lift. That is mandatory and you need to do that right away to avoid ruining your tires... which can also 'encourage' DW.

One last comment, do not replace the steering stabilizer if told that will fix DW. Doing that may temporarily mask the DW symptoms but like placing a band-aid on a skin cancer, doing so will not cure anything... only temporarily hide/mask it.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:49 AM   #7
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You definitely want to check and adjust the toe-in after a lift, which could cause vibes. I would do the alignment and see it it fixes your issues but it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull that one front affected tire to double check the re-install along with the track bar. You can get extra jack lift by adding a 4x4 block of wood.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #8
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Autozone or pep boys should check the code for free. As for the spacers, did you get the hub centric with the extra ring that fits into the axle hub? I installed a set on an old explorer that were not hub centric and i was getting a nasty wobble off them. The manufactorer insisted they should be fine but after swapping the fronts for a pair that had the ring, the problem went away. I hope your problem is that simple.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:58 AM   #9
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Here's the process to check the codes:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-error-codes-358.html
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:06 PM   #10
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Yes same tires and wheels just put 1.25" wheel spacers on. The kind that bolt onto your original lugs, and then have their own lugs for the tire. I will check my front end with your method ASAP on my lunch break and get back to you. Will definitely need an alignment once I can eliminate enough wobble to actually drive my vehicle somewhere that I can get that done. I'll have to have a buddy drive me to Napa or OReillys and buy a code scanner too since I can't drive there. How much do they cost?
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:38 PM   #11
Knows a couple things...

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Your Jeep has the built-in ability to generate its own DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes), no need to buy a code reader. Just turn the ignition switch On-Off-On (not to Start) three times within five seconds & then wait after leaving it on the last time. Several seconds will pass before it will start displaying any stored DTCs so give it a little time.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:50 PM   #12
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So I'm not actually turning it on, just toggling the key to the point right before it turns on?
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:55 PM   #13
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So I'm not actually turning it on, just toggling the key to the point right before it turns on?
yes, to acc power, not turning the engine over
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #14
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Ok I'll try this one my lunch break along with some of the other results and post them here after. That's in about an hour and a half.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:38 PM   #15
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Nice tidbit about the code generator. Sweet tip. Back to the hub spacer.... There is a protuding ring of metal that forms around the main hub hole on one side of the spacer, mimicking the protruding ring on the axle seat. This ring fits inside the wheel rim. Does your spacer have this ring? Take a pic
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:45 PM   #16
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And PS, never do more than 1 mod at once so that you can see if there are any ill effects.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:52 PM   #17
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If you haven't done a toe-in adjustment after a 3+" lift, my guess is that your front tires are about 1" closer together in the front (of the front tire) than in the rear (of the front tire)...or extremely toed in. Just take a friend and a tape measure out and check. This could be a major contributor to your dw.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:02 PM   #18
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My guess is too little caster after the lift. You're getting the shopping cart wheel effect.

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Old 06-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #19
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Would an alignment fix the toe-in? I tried that trick to get the code like you suggested but nothing happened. Is it supposed to display where my miles are? Because that's the only digital part of my display. And All that happened was the CEL flickered a couple times then stayed on. Nothing else. Maybe I am doing ng it wrong? Anyways over lunch I was able to check components for play but did not have time to do some like the wheels and spacers because I have to wait to get a jack/torque wrench from my buddy after work. I didn't see play in the track bar, from what I can tell. But I did notice my front right sway link seems to be hitting my frame. Took a picture of it and the front left that's not hitting for comparison. Idk if that's a problem that's contributing to this or not but here it is.

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Old 06-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #20
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What is caster?
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:05 PM   #21
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I thought it was 5 times on the key trick. Try that.


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Old 06-19-2013, 03:06 PM   #22
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Caster is an alignment perameter. Do a search for a technical explanation.

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Old 06-19-2013, 03:30 PM   #23
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Good luck with your diagnosis.

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Old 06-19-2013, 03:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Would an alignment fix the toe-in?

But I did notice my front right sway link seems to be hitting my frame. Took a picture of it and the front left that's not hitting for comparison.
Yes, alignment would take care of toe-in.

The sway bar links wouldn't cause the wobble you're experiencing, but for a little more clearance, reverse the upper bolts on the links.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:39 PM   #25
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You can definitely adjust the toe-in yourself see link below. Have you tried disconnecting the battery to see if it will clear the code?
Basic Jeep Front End Alignment
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #26
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Did you move the axle side point of the front track bar? Most lifts require either adjustable front track bar or redriling the mount hole. Just a thought
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:12 PM   #27
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To get the codes: On Off On Off On quickly. Codes will display in the odo.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:18 PM   #28
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Did you move the axle side point of the front track bar? Most lifts require either adjustable front track bar or redriling the mount hole. Just a thought
It did say they suggest it. But after drilling the hole and attempting to put the track bar in the hardware would not allow. Idk if my hole was off (I measured 9/16 of an inch to the driver side like it said, but the marked area was where I centered the hole) or if it was really the hardware but I had to put it back in the original hole to get it to fit. Then ng is it was fine driving for a couple days like I said, but something is suddenly going wrong. I feel like something has come loose.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:38 PM   #29
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It did say they suggest it. But after drilling the hole and attempting to put the track bar in the hardware would not allow. Idk if my hole was off (I measured 9/16 of an inch to the driver side like it said, but the marked area was where I centered the hole) or if it was really the hardware.
The reason you couldn't get it in is because the track bar was unbolted from the original location and the nothing has moved. With the track bar unbolted at the axle and with the jeep sitting on the ground, have someone turn the steering wheel until the bolt hole lines up.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:58 PM   #30
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I did this, but it didn't work. The hardware that the bolt has to thread with (a nut, but one that's tack welded to a piece of sheet metal, not sure what it's called) does not fit in the spot where the new hole is. I think the hole would have to be higher for it to work. So I guess I need to take it to a fabrications shop and have them patch the hole that I just put in it. See if a new one works. Is it that necessary to get that done ASAP? I'm thinking the death wobble was caused by something else seeing how I was driving with the track bar in its original spot for days before this happened.

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