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Old 06-21-2014, 04:27 PM   #1
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Engine swap

Hey all. I've a 1997 jeep wrangler se 2.5l and swapped the engine and transmission with ones from a 95 wrangler 2.5. I've gone back through and hooked everything up, had to swap a few parts from my old engine to the new like the fuel rail and crankshaft position sensor to match up with my old wiring harness. I'm to the point where it's all hooked up, but it is not turning over. I get spark and everything, but just will not crank. My main question is, is there anywhere that has a picture of the intake manifold and all the hoses that surrounds the map sensor so I can be sure I have everything hooked up correctly?
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:19 PM   #2
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Update.

I checked the fuel line and there's no fuel coming thru to it. Even when trying to crank it, no gas is coming through

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Old 06-21-2014, 08:48 PM   #3
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Got power to the fuel pump?
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:45 AM   #4
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Crank means starter spinning engine

Start is something else

You say no crank do you mean cranks but won't start?
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Digger84 View Post
Crank means starter spinning engine Start is something else You say no crank do you mean cranks but won't start?
Yes. It cranks but will not start. Does get fuel. Not sure what else to check for
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:31 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DoubleOught View Post
Got power to the fuel pump?
I've got power to the fuel pump and fuel through the lines but it's not "turning on" it turns over but it's almost like there's not spark. I've got new plugs, cap, rotor button. Idk what else it could be right now
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:19 PM   #7
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Next with key on verify you have plus 12 compared to battery ground at dark green with black stripe wire on each injector and the coil

If you don't chest fuse 6 in fuse box under hood it is 5 up from bottom on the left a 30 amp fuse

Then report back
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:19 PM   #8
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Check no chest
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:36 PM   #9
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Check no chest
Will check that for sure. I'm away right now but will update as soon as I check it. Thank you so mych
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:31 PM   #10
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Next with key on verify you have plus 12 compared to battery ground at dark green with black stripe wire on each injector and the coil If you don't chest fuse 6 in fuse box under hood it is 5 up from bottom on the left a 30 amp fuse Then report back
So far no luck. All fuses under good look fine. Replaced coil just to be sure it wasn't that. Wasn't sure what you meant by checking the wires but from what I can tell everything is attached and running to the correct places.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:34 PM   #11
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Turn key on

Get a meter set meter on reading DC voltage

Put black wire of meter on battery ground

Put red wire of meter on metal contact at end of dark green wire with black stripe ( one on coil one on each injector) see what meter says for each of these wires
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:23 PM   #12
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I did the exact same swap in my tj, same years too. I actually ended up with a bad PCM being my issue. Anyways, assuming everything is hooked up right, Double check to see if you have spark. If ya do check your timing on your distributor. That thing is a royal pain to get just right. If no spark then check contacts in distributor cap for corrosion. Check spark again. If none still, Then check power to coil. If none check/replace if necessary the cps. Still no start, check fuse 11 behind dash. Still not starting, check fuse 6, I believe, in the PCM, one of those big 30 amp sonsofbitches. Still no start, check grounds!! Still no start, try swapping ASD relay with the horn relay. Still no start, yank that ASD crap out and put In a jumper wire to terminals 30 and 86 or 87.. I forget.. Lol that should get her running, just don't get in a wreck and or catch on fire you'll probably blow up. I've ran mine jumpered 500mi now lololol but that level of jerry riggin is normal in south Mississippi... Hahahaha good luck
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:38 PM   #13
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I did the exact same swap in my tj, same years too. I actually ended up with a bad PCM being my issue. Anyways, assuming everything is hooked up right, Double check to see if you have spark. If ya do check your timing on your distributor. That thing is a royal pain to get just right. If no spark then check contacts in distributor cap for corrosion. Check spark again. If none still, Then check power to coil. If none check/replace if necessary the cps. Still no start, check fuse 11 behind dash. Still not starting, check fuse 6, I believe, in the PCM, one of those big 30 amp sonsofbitches. Still no start, check grounds!! Still no start, try swapping ASD relay with the horn relay. Still no start, yank that ASD crap out and put In a jumper wire to terminals 30 and 86 or 87.. I forget.. Lol that should get her running, just don't get in a wreck and or catch on fire you'll probably blow up. I've ran mine jumpered 500mi now lololol but that level of jerry riggin is normal in south Mississippi... Hahahaha good luck

So, I checked the spark and have none. The fuses look to be ok and I even swapped a couple of then around to see if it helps but it didn't. Looking in my fuse box, I don't see a 30amp fuse in the 5th place. I've moved relays around and still no spark. Not sure what else to try
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by BadKrma View Post
I did the exact same swap in my tj, same years too. I actually ended up with a bad PCM being my issue. Anyways, assuming everything is hooked up right, Double check to see if you have spark. If ya do check your timing on your distributor. That thing is a royal pain to get just right. If no spark then check contacts in distributor cap for corrosion. Check spark again. If none still, Then check power to coil. If none check/replace if necessary the cps. Still no start, check fuse 11 behind dash. Still not starting, check fuse 6, I believe, in the PCM, one of those big 30 amp sonsofbitches. Still no start, check grounds!! Still no start, try swapping ASD relay with the horn relay. Still no start, yank that ASD crap out and put In a jumper wire to terminals 30 and 86 or 87.. I forget.. Lol that should get her running, just don't get in a wreck and or catch on fire you'll probably blow up. I've ran mine jumpered 500mi now lololol but that level of jerry riggin is normal in south Mississippi... Hahahaha good luck
I've also changed the cam and crankshaft position censor already. Had to change those because I wasn't getting any fuel and once those were changed I got fuel.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:16 PM   #15
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Turn key on Get a meter set meter on reading DC voltage Put black wire of meter on battery ground Put red wire of meter on metal contact at end of dark green wire with black stripe ( one on coil one on each injector) see what meter says for each of these wires
I've got just a basic setup meter that lights up. I did the ground and checked all the wires but nothing lit up. I know it works because if I put it on the battery it lights up just fine
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:19 PM   #16
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With key on each of the dark green with black stripe wires ( one on each fuel injector one on the coil and one on each oxygen sensor shoul light a test light when other lead for light is grounded as the all should get a steady plus 12 when key is in on/run position
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:01 PM   #17
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With key on each of the dark green with black stripe wires ( one on each fuel injector one on the coil and one on each oxygen sensor shoul light a test light when other lead for light is grounded as the all should get a steady plus 12 when key is in on/run position
Checked coil wire and fuel em hectors and do not have power going to them. Any ideas where to go or start next?
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:43 PM   #18
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See if power is reaching shut down relay input
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:37 AM   #19
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See if power is reaching shut down relay input
I have power in that relag
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:15 AM   #20
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Is there a picture or photo somewhere that shows how the wires are supposed to be plugged in around the motor? I feel like I'm missing a ground wire somewhere. I'm not getting power to my coil or fuel injectors but I am getting power to the relay that makes thm work.
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:40 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by BadKrma View Post
I did the exact same swap in my tj, same years too. I actually ended up with a bad PCM being my issue. Anyways, assuming everything is hooked up right, Double check to see if you have spark. If ya do check your timing on your distributor. That thing is a royal pain to get just right. If no spark then check contacts in distributor cap for corrosion. Check spark again. If none still, Then check power to coil. If none check/replace if necessary the cps. Still no start, check fuse 11 behind dash. Still not starting, check fuse 6, I believe, in the PCM, one of those big 30 amp sonsofbitches. Still no start, check grounds!! Still no start, try swapping ASD relay with the horn relay. Still no start, yank that ASD crap out and put In a jumper wire to terminals 30 and 86 or 87.. I forget.. Lol that should get her running, just don't get in a wreck and or catch on fire you'll probably blow up. I've ran mine jumpered 500mi now lololol but that level of jerry riggin is normal in south Mississippi... Hahahaha good luck
So I've gone and checked all I can. There is power to the asd. Switched relays. Changed cam and crank sensors. New coil. New button and cap. Just not getting power to fuel injectors or coil still
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:54 AM   #22
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So pull the sad relay and jump the two main leads mot the ones to the magnet that closes it

Now verify that ally he dark green black wires have plus 12 and if they do attempt a start
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:30 PM   #23
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So pull the sad relay and jump the two main leads mot the ones to the magnet that closes it Now verify that ally he dark green black wires have plus 12 and if they do attempt a start
I know I'm asking a lot but I've never done something like that before. Is there any step by steps somewhere that I could find?
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:39 PM   #24
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A relay is a switch opened or closed in this case closed by applying a small current to the electromagnetic coil which attracts a metal arm closing the contacts to deliver a larger current via those closed contacts

So if you put a jumper wire from one contact connection to the other acting like the relay has closed the contacts

If the relay or the circuit controlling it is bad this bypass will make it run to verify that that truly is the prob
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:42 PM   #25
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A relay is a switch opened or closed in this case closed by applying a small current to the electromagnetic coil which attracts a metal arm closing the contacts to deliver a larger current via those closed contacts

So if you put a jumper wire from one contact connection to the other acting like the relay has closed the contacts

If the relay or the circuit controlling it is bad this bypass will make it run to verify that that truly is the prob
So, basically put a piece of wire in where the relay would sit?
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Old 06-28-2014, 05:53 PM   #26
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Only across the correct two terminals
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:09 PM   #27
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These terminals haha. Don't hate on my sketchyness. Don't leave it jumped very long cause you'll have constant power to everything. I have a kill switch for the battery when the jeep ain't running. As far as that other wire on the left.. don't worry about that little guy

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Old 06-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #28
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I think the issue is the Crankshaft sensor. I looked on a parts website and theyre two different part numbers.

The reason I had to change the Crank sensor was because the pigtail from the sensor from the 95 motor/tranny didn't match up to my wiring harness to my 97 wrangler. Would it be safe to cut the wires and splice them back together? Use the 97 pigtail on the 95 sensor so the wire harness will match up... Would that work or would I mess anything else up?
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:03 PM   #29
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Only across the correct two terminals
I think the issue is the Crankshaft sensor. I looked on a parts website and theyre two different part numbers.

The reason I had to change the Crank sensor was because the pigtail from the sensor from the 95 motor/tranny didn't match up to my wiring harness to my 97 wrangler. Would it be safe to cut the wires and splice them back together? Use the 97 pigtail on the 95 sensor so the wire harness will match up... Would that work or would I mess anything else up?
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:26 PM   #30
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These terminals haha. Don't hate on my sketchyness. Don't leave it jumped very long cause you'll have constant power to everything. I have a kill switch for the battery when the jeep ain't running. As far as that other wire on the left.. don't worry about that little guy
You said you did the same swap as I am. Did you run into any problems like this? I know you said you did the jump on you asd relay, but if the relay is already getting power, would that help at all?

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