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Old 08-11-2008, 08:01 AM   #31
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Wolfgang -
The two hoses that were cracked on my jeep are located on the drivers side front.

If you open your hood and go to the driver side, you will see were 2 vaccum hoses run down towards the ground and then turn towards the back. At the point where they turn towards the back is where my cracked because the hoses hang just a bit below the frame.

I am trying to remember the name of the part that (I replaced for no reason) the hoses run into.

Purge solenoid is there the hoses connect to. I just found my old post. Look at the very last post.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/tj-jeep...ode-15939.html

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Originally Posted by Wolfgang View Post
Tazmann - can you narrow my search by giving more detail on which vacuum line it was? I am still getting this code and about to go over it with a fine tooth comb. I've searched before and found nothing. Obvioulsy, I missed something somewhere...

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Old 08-11-2008, 08:44 AM   #32
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purge solenoid

Awesome, thanks.

Can you tell me exactly what the purge solenoid looks like? Just to help me out.

I'm sure I'll figure it all out but any info you provide will save me time... (with a one year old boy at home, I need all the time I can get LOL).

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Old 08-11-2008, 09:00 AM   #33
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in this picture, it is the little cylinder shaped piece next to brake fluid res. that has the two hoses connected to it.

Hope that helps.

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Old 10-13-2008, 08:58 AM   #34
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Turns out, it was a bad Purge Solenoid. Took at about 3 minutes to replace it.
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:25 AM   #35
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Well good, then I guess I helped a bit.

Thanks for reporting back.

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Turns out, it was a bad Purge Solenoid. Took at about 3 minutes to replace it.
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:28 AM   #36
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Yes, you definitely helped. Everybody helped a lot and saved me some money (which I desperately need right now - like everybody else).

I certainly appreciate everybody's help!
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:43 PM   #37
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Wolgang-

How did you determine it was a bad purge solenoid?

I have an 02 Wrangler that is throwing a P0455 code and has been for a long time. I tried to get it inspected last week (after disconnecting the battery) but they would not pass it and asked me to drive it 60-100 miles and bring it back. Well, I did drive it and the code is back.

This afternoon, I went through and disconnected and reconnected all the hoses to the EVAP system under the hood. I also put zip ties around each connection to make sure there's a tight connection. I looked at my gas cap and it doesn't look damaged but I did make sure it was tightened up.

I am going to drive my Jeep to work and back tomorrow (around 70 miles) and see if the code comes back. I have the battery disconnected now. Will this take the codes out?

I am just wondering what the next step if the check engine light comes back on tomorrow after doing what I did day will be. Any advice you guys have is appreciated! Thanks!!!
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:01 PM   #38
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my 455 code was because of the ring that holds all of the fuel related items in the fuel tank . Plastic tanks and parts seem to expand and contract and move then the next thing you know , leak . Its a set up like the lid of a Mason jar . All of the components hang fron the flat center section and the the threaded ring around the outside hold everything thing along with a rubber gasket that don't do diddly if that ring unscrews slightly . Its a pain in the butt but but not as bad as I thought it would be . I was able to lower mine with half a tank of fuel with help from a friend doing the balancing act to keep it on the Jack . Maybe the Kilby skid plate helped some to .
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:10 AM   #39
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AggieChris -

I knew it had to be the Lock Ring on the gas tank, a vacuum leak, bad gas cap, or the purge solenoid.

I came here to see any one had experience on this subject. There were a couple people here that had the Lock Ring problem but it is the rarest of the (4) I listed above.

So I checked EVERY vacuum line. I saw no deterioration, no bad connections, no wear, no splits - nothing. I felt for problems too. Still nothing.

So I figured: gas cap or purge solenoid. I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and put a new gas cap on it anyhow (although I saw nothing wrong with the old one). So I bought one and put it on. Cleared the codes and sure enough they came back within a day or two.

So I bought a purge solenoid. Took 3 minutes to put it on. Cleared the codes and they have not came back since.

Gas cap was around $30 and the Purge Solenoid was about the same. If your dealer is too far off those prices, then call another dealer because he is raking you through the coals.

Hope this helps. If you need more info, just let me know. I am happy to help in any way I can.

Wolfgang
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:21 AM   #40
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I knew it had to be one of four things: Lock Ring on the gas tank, a vacuum leak, bad gas cap, or bad purge solenoid.

So I came to this forum to see if anyone had experience on this (as you can see).

Although a few people here had the Lock Ring problem, it is the rarest of the four so I moved onto the next.

I checked every vacuum line. I felt every one of them and visually inspected each one. I found no deterioration and no loose connections. There were no splits or wear or anything.

I figured changing the gas cap wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing - either way (although it appeared to be fine). So I replaced it anyhow. I clear the codes and drove it for a day or two. The check-engine light came back.

I bought a purge solenoid (takes 3 minutes to put on). Cleared the codes. They have never came back (so that had to be the problem, right?).

Gas cap = $30. Purge solenoid = $30. If your dealer charges you much more than that, then call another dealer.

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, then please let me know. I am always happy to help any way that I can.

If I were you, I'd start by checking vacuum lines. Then the purge solenoid. (then gas cap and lock ring - if needed but I doubt you get that far before it is fixed).

Wolfgang

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