You don't need to swap out the yoke just get the yoke piece thingy off of the explorer driveshaft and press your Ujoint into it then bolt it to the rearend. 8.8's have a flat yoke with bolt holes. I've had my 8.8 for about 5 months now and i love it. Got the drum brakes and can't complain, used stock e-brake lines and everything went in very easily. Got my brackets from mad4x4 great quality 3/16 stuff!
I agree. The I think flange yokes are much stronger and easier to work with if you have to do a trail repair.
Odd, that you all mention the 3.23 stuf etc....All of the 8.8's I've seen out here have either been 3.73 or 4.10.
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Local guy has an 8.8 w/ discs and 3.73 gears out of an Explorer for $150 that is setup for an XJ. So I figure I will at least need to remove all the brackets and weld on the TJ stuff. I am waiting to hear back from him.
and the last time i checked, TJs had 4.11s not 4.10s
1997 TJs came with a 3.55 and 3.54 ratio, front and rear. And the next time you find an axle on a TJ that says 4.11, go look at the other axle because it will say 4.10. Same with 3.73, the other axle will be 3.74.
Because of the different size ring gears on our front and rear axles, like D30/44 or D30/D35c, they will usually be .01 different from each other. This is because it's just too hard to machine the gears so the ratios are identical when the gears are different sizes.
The .01 ratio difference is a non-issue. Just turning slightly left or right means the front axle is rotating at a faster rpm than the rear axle than a .01 difference between the front and rear axle ratios would cause.
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