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Old 04-26-2010, 04:02 PM   #1
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Found my death wobble...have a question

I took my 2005 TJ to NTB to help diagnose my death wobble issue. Come to find out the upper driver side tie rod end and the passenger end on the same tie rod are both shot. NTB wanted $340 for the parts, labor, and alignment which I find a bit ridiculous. My question is, how easy is it to replace these 2 tie rod ends? It looks as simple as removing the wheel, removing the tie rod, unscrew the ends, rethread the new ones on, re-install wheel, and get an alignment. Will I need a pitman puller or any other fancy crap?

If there is a write up some where I would love to see it.


Thanks in Advance!

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Old 04-26-2010, 04:09 PM   #2
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It is simple I did my tie rods this weekend while wheeling with hand tools. Your alignment can be done on your garage floor with a tape measure. Do it yourself.

You need a 19mm socket
a hammer 3 pounder works.
jack and jackstands. A impact gun really helps for putting it back together but is not needed. A vise does wonders for unscrewing the ends. Clamp the bar in the vice then open end wrench on the tie rod itself to unscrew them pretty simple.

BTW is your alignment off now? If not count the threads showing and then put the new tie rods in to that number and put it back together and then you don't need the alignment.

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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

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Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:05 PM   #3
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one thing that many seem to forget (at least around here) is to put a cotter key in the castle nut...failure to do so won't end well.
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:18 PM   #4
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Like these guys said,easy to change,easy to set toe also.My next mod is to install currie HD tie rod/drag link.Ive already had mine apart,you can use a big hammer on the castle nut backed off to be even with the threaded stud,or use a pickle fork.On the alignment,all the tie rod can change is toe,which only has to be as accurate as a fraction of an inch.easily done with a tape measure.After toe is set,you just need to align the steering wheel with the drag link collar,piece of cake.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
one thing that many seem to forget (at least around here) is to put a cotter key in the castle nut...failure to do so won't end well.
yes please do this part! Losing a castle nut while going 60 and having your tire go which ever way it pleases will not end well at all.
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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

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Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:13 PM   #6
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can someone please explain setting the front toe in with a tape measure?
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokejeep View Post
can someone please explain setting the front toe in with a tape measure?
Here you go bud, everything you need to know..pictures too.

Clicky me---->>>>Basic Jeep Front End Alignment
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:26 PM   #8
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can someone please explain setting the front toe in with a tape measure?
simple way is by marking each tire with a piece of chalk or something .Example = park on flat ground,measure maybe 12 inches up from the ground to a spot in the center of the tread,front and rear of each front tire.Now measure the width between marks in the front,then the back.The difference is the toe.You want the front dimension to be 1/8th to 3/16 inch shorter for correct toe in.This dimension varies a little for tire size,the larger diameter tire should be toed in a little more.Theres a clamp on the tire rod,you loosen the clamp bolts,then turn the clamp to increase or decrease the tie rod length.Simple as that.....
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhallissey View Post
It is simple I did my tie rods this weekend while wheeling with hand tools. Your alignment can be done on your garage floor with a tape measure. Do it yourself.

You need a 19mm socket
a hammer 3 pounder works.
jack and jackstands. A impact gun really helps for putting it back together but is not needed. A vise does wonders for unscrewing the ends. Clamp the bar in the vice then open end wrench on the tie rod itself to unscrew them pretty simple.

BTW is your alignment off now? If not count the threads showing and then put the new tie rods in to that number and put it back together and then you don't need the alignment.
he said jack stands
cinder blocks are not jack stands
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:33 PM   #10
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thanks for the information. I'm thinking about putting a spacer lift on. After I can check the front end alignment.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:36 PM   #11
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Honestly cinder blocks (2) on each side of the axle work just fine in my eyes.
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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:00 PM   #12
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cinder blocks work well in a group filled with cement

I've seen them fail twice and twice only my friends are lucky they still have legs and the other his arm

jack stands are steel.. and cheap
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:11 PM   #13
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cinder blocks work well in a group filled with cement

I've seen them fail twice and twice only my friends are lucky they still have legs and the other his arm

jack stands are steel.. and cheap
x2

Cinder block will eventually fail if you keep pushing your luck by using them as a jack stand.
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:14 PM   #14
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Thanks guys. I have the parts and tools and will attempt it tonight.

YES, I have jack stands....

Good advice on the DIY toe-in also...
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:49 PM   #15
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Started on the tie rods this evening. Wheel off and cinder block in place...jk...jackstand in place. Removed cotter and castle nut on the knuckle and the tie rod dropped right out. The inner tie rod castle nut just spins with the tie rod and of course I couldn't find my PB Blaster AND my freegin' air compressor took a s#!t on me. I gave up! I will resume on Sunday....Any tips or tricks to help a brotha out?

OHHH...Almost forgot.....Freegin O'Reilly gave me the wrong damn tie rod ends
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:18 PM   #16
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Maybe a stupid question but...

How do you tell if your tie red ends are bad?
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:23 PM   #17
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Tie rod ends need to allow the tie rod to roll about its longitudinal axis but the ends should not have any side-to-side slop at all.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:50 AM   #18
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I found out mine are bad by jacking up the front end and moving the wheels. The driver side wheel moved about an inch when I shook it. Also, when I unscrewed the castle nut the tie rod fell out of the knuckle which shouldn't happen either.

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