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Old 08-05-2013, 04:07 PM   #1
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Question Front bumper bolts spec

I would like to know the bolt spec on the 4 front bumper bolts. I hate using those torx head bolts

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Old 08-05-2013, 04:12 PM   #2
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I used grade 8 bolts from Lowes or Home Depot, for torque specs I do good-n-tight.

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Old 08-05-2013, 04:41 PM   #3
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spec size?
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:03 PM   #4
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just to be sure, take it to home depot with you and size it accordingly.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:11 PM   #5
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I figured somebody would know the size
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:16 PM   #6
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I believe that they are 1/2-13. not sure how long the stock ones are though
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:42 PM   #7
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According to my parts manual they are...M6x1.00x20.00
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:48 PM   #8
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According to my parts manual they are...M6x1.00x20.00
Guess i was wrong then Thanks for letting us know
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:25 AM   #9
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According to my parts manual they are...M6x1.00x20.00
1/2 bolts. I got replacement hex head Grade 8 at Lowes.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/fron...ts-121887.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/fram...ch-162996.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tow-...ts-244206.html
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:49 AM   #10
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According to my parts manual they are...M6x1.00x20.00
1/2" bolt will fit and weaken the threads. I made the mistake as well and after seeing some pics of a recovery hook that ripped off due to failing threads, i unbolted it and welded new 1/2" nuts in.

now I use the metric size after removing the oem hardware
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:24 AM   #11
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How is it going to weaken the threads when that's what the existing nut is? If it were metric, it would not even screw in to start with.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:31 AM   #12
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How is it going to weaken the threads when that's what the existing nut is? If it were metric, it would not even screw in to start with.
have you tried this?
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #13
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I believe it is actually a metric 12mm-P1.25
the m6x1.00x20.22 is actually the screw for the milk jugs

read post 9
Tow hook/bumper mount frame repair - JeepForum.com
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:23 PM   #14
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:39 PM   #15
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Wow Idk who's right
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:31 PM   #16
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i'm pretty sure neil knows the answer to that
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:15 AM   #17
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Wow Idk who's right
I do, and Gary is a tad confused. I'm one of those that is a bit anal retentive about fasteners and just about everything connected to them.

Being that way, when I remove something from a stock rig, I tend to bag the item and the fasteners associated with it at the same time and then store them that way.

I just checked several things. First was a set of factory tow hooks that I removed from the front of a TJ with the fasteners still in the bag.

They are still the same 1/2-13 thread pitch they have always been. I checked them with a known 1/2-13 nut, the holes in the frame, and then my thread chasing set that has 1/2-13 dies that are marked.

Then I checked a known good frame that has never had anything but the stock bolts in it and it is 1/2-13 as well for the 6 bolts in the front frame horns that are the front most 6.

The last thing I checked is trying to thread a 12mm nut onto the 1/2-13 bolt which is the equivalent of what Gary describes happens when you try to use the SAE bolts in the "metric" frame holes.

All I gotta say is you would have to be very determined, very lucky, and very non mechanical to accomplish that. Anyone that has ever put a bolt in a threaded hole would recognize instantly that it is not correct, not going to work without damage and the chances of it working are slim. There is just too much difference between the two sizes and thread pitch to "accidentally" pull it off.

If you care to know what it feels like to try it without damaging anything, take off one of the front bumper bolts and try to thread it into the bottom holes on the frame for the rear bumper. Don't force it, but you will figure out really fast it ain't gonna work.

In Gary's defense, here is what I suspect happened. The Cherokee in some years uses the Torx bolt he describes for the front swaybar lower end link mount to the axle. It looks identical if you don't know what you are looking at and is the same rough length, but is the smaller 12mm bolt.

If you don't know that they are a modified button head that is not completely rounded like the TJ button head tow hook and bumper bolts are, you could easily confuse them with TJ tow hook bolts and arrive at the incorrect conclusion he did if they were laying in a box somewhere from working on a Cherokee.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
I do, and Gary is a tad confused. I'm one of those that is a bit anal retentive about fasteners and just about everything connected to them.

Being that way, when I remove something from a stock rig, I tend to bag the item and the fasteners associated with it at the same time and then store them that way.

I just checked several things. First was a set of factory tow hooks that I removed from the front of a TJ with the fasteners still in the bag.

They are still the same 1/2-13 thread pitch they have always been. I checked them with a known 1/2-13 nut, the holes in the frame, and then my thread chasing set that has 1/2-13 dies that are marked.

Then I checked a known good frame that has never had anything but the stock bolts in it and it is 1/2-13 as well for the 6 bolts in the front frame horns that are the front most 6.

The last thing I checked is trying to thread a 12mm nut onto the 1/2-13 bolt which is the equivalent of what Gary describes happens when you try to use the SAE bolts in the "metric" frame holes.

All I gotta say is you would have to be very determined, very lucky, and very non mechanical to accomplish that. Anyone that has ever put a bolt in a threaded hole would recognize instantly that it is not correct, not going to work without damage and the chances of it working are slim. There is just too much difference between the two sizes and thread pitch to "accidentally" pull it off.

If you care to know what it feels like to try it without damaging anything, take off one of the front bumper bolts and try to thread it into the bottom holes on the frame for the rear bumper. Don't force it, but you will figure out really fast it ain't gonna work.

In Gary's defense, here is what I suspect happened. The Cherokee in some years uses the Torx bolt he describes for the front swaybar lower end link mount to the axle. It looks identical if you don't know what you are looking at and is the same rough length, but is the smaller 12mm bolt.

If you don't know that they are a modified button head that is not completely rounded like the TJ button head tow hook and bumper bolts are, you could easily confuse them with TJ tow hook bolts and arrive at the incorrect conclusion he did if they were laying in a box somewhere from working on a Cherokee.
Mahalo!
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:24 AM   #19
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have you tried this?
Yes I have. The correct size is 1/2-13.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:35 AM   #20
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How is it going to weaken the threads when that's what the existing nut is? If it were metric, it would not even screw in to start with.
You are in general correct, but there is one place that we can and do readily violate that rule with no ill effect and it happens to be very close to the area we are dealing with.

Being the anal retentive butthead I am about fasteners, it is more important in my weird brain that they match if possible. In other words if I look at a front bumper like the one we have at Savvy and see all the fastener heads, it's more important to me that they match visually than be correct threads if I can do so without penalty.

That means it really bothers me that the back 4 holes for the swaybar on top are metric and the front four on top are SAE. So doing some checking and fitting, I found that one can easily rethread the back 4 weld nuts which are metric 10mm with 3/8-16 SAE and they work fine. It is not correct, but I have installed hundreds of them with an impact and never stripped one out so it does work. We've also sent out hundreds of them with the bumpers and most don't catch that they are wrong because it works.

For the record, this is the only place on the TJ where I have been able to do this and given that 8mm and 5/16 are even closer in size and both are used on the belly skid and gas tank skid, it should work there but doesn't.

EDIT- don't confuse "working fine" with being correct. They work, don't fail, but they are not correct.
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #21
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(I'm a mechanical engineer) I know when I replaced my stock ones with the 1/2, I matched up the threads at Lowes. If you interlock the threads of two fasteners, if the TPI and pitch are the same, they will interlock perfectly and should be interlocked along the entire length. If they are not the same TPI, they will not line up and be off after a number of threads.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:57 PM   #22
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Length?
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:20 PM   #23
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Does anyone know the TORX size of the 4 bolts? I am changing out my front stock bumper (they look like a huge size).
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:03 PM   #24
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Does anyone know the TORX size of the 4 bolts? I am changing out my front stock bumper (they look like a huge size).
Stock Torx cap screw is a T55

The OEM length without recovery hooks is 1-3/8"
with recovery hooks is 2-1/2"

And Mine are 1/2" x 13tpi

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