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Old 11-29-2011, 11:45 PM   #1
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Question Front hub unit replacement #?

1998 TJ, front right wheel bearing sounds like it's going.
Is Timken 513084 the correct replacement?

Also, are there different part numbers for left/right?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 11-30-2011, 12:26 AM   #2
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same for both, dont know part numbers i always just walk in and tell them what i need

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Old 11-30-2011, 01:15 AM   #3
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If it sounds like its going how long can you go with it bad? Could it make the wheel fall off if it got bad enough? Think mine is going on but don't have the time and money to change it ASAP.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:42 AM   #4
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ya the wheel can fall off, jack it up and check how bad it is, you can get one at advanced auto for 60 bucks or so if you need it cheap
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:48 AM   #5
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I just had my front right side worked on about an hour ago, unfortunately it did not stop the onset of the death wobble at 55 mph.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #6
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Quick question. I have an 04 rubicon and I'm thinking one of my wheel bearings r on its way out. When I turn, doesn't matter left or right, something squeaks under the jeep. Like squeak squeak squeak as my wheels r turning and the squeaking slows as I slow down while turning. so I think it's one of my wheels, but only happens when I turn. Bad hub? Or something need to be greased? Also she's still stock for now. Don't mean to hijack the thread but thanks for any help.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC0QR View Post
1998 TJ, front right wheel bearing sounds like it's going.
Is Timken 513084 the correct replacement?

Also, are there different part numbers for left/right?

Thanks in advance!
Yes, that should be the right P/N. I have spend some serious time researching this, since mine is a 99 and they change hub and rotor styles half way through. there are a ton of threads on the differences, but just for reference:

Pre 99 1/2 = Timken 513084
Post 99 1/2 = Timken HA597449

Same on both sides.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:50 PM   #8
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You are the man, No Way Out. Just like Costner in the movie of the same name...
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:09 AM   #9
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After wheeling this weekend, one bearing is very loose. NAPA has two versions, $70 and $134.
Considering I wheel hard on rocks and through mud, is it worth getting the more expensive hub or just go cheap and maybe replaced more often ?
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:28 AM   #10
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I would recommend getting the Timken unit off Amazon - $80
Amazon.com: Timken HA597449

That is for the "post 99 1/2" model year Jeeps. Not sure if that will fit your 2003 Rubicon.
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:28 PM   #11
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I am going to bring this thread back from the dead.

To make a long story short, I think I need to replace my driver side front hub because one of the wheel studs won't stay in it. I've tried everything I know how to do (including pulling it through with a lug, spacer, and impact gun...it won't stay in place) and I think the mounting hole on the hub is stripped due to driving with only one lug (obviously unintentionally)

Three questions:
-Is there anything that I can do to maybe get it to stay in there?
-Am I correct in assuming replacing the stud probably won't do anything since the hub is likely warped??
-Do the driver and passenger side hubs needs to be replaced together, or does it matter? It has 92.5k miles on it and neither has ever been replaced AFAIK. If I do it, I want to do it right.

Thanks
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTBalla34 View Post
I am going to bring this thread back from the dead.

To make a long story short, I think I need to replace my driver side front hub because one of the wheel studs won't stay in it. I've tried everything I know how to do (including pulling it through with a lug, spacer, and impact gun...it won't stay in place) and I think the mounting hole on the hub is stripped due to driving with only one lug (obviously unintentionally)

Three questions:
-Is there anything that I can do to maybe get it to stay in there?
-Am I correct in assuming replacing the stud probably won't do anything since the hub is likely warped??
-Do the driver and passenger side hubs needs to be replaced together, or does it matter? It has 92.5k miles on it and neither has ever been replaced AFAIK. If I do it, I want to do it right.

Thanks
Have you been re-installing the original stud or a new one?
There is nothing wrong with replacing one hub assembly at a time as long as the opposite side is still good.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:56 PM   #13
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Have you been re-installing the original stud or a new one?
There is nothing wrong with replacing one hub assembly at a time as long as the opposite side is still good.
It is the original stud. It didn't actually break off, just came "loose" from the back somehow (what I figured was stripping out of the hub mount) and you can't swap studs out without removing the whole assembly, so I was just trying to do it the easy way.

Do you think a new stud would maybe fit better?

That would obviously be ideal cost wise, since either way I will be removing the hub unit. I would just hate to get it all apart and back together and find the new stud isn't good enough and end up needing an entire unit anyway, ya know?
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:48 PM   #14
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It is the original stud. It didn't actually break off, just came "loose" from the back somehow (what I figured was stripping out of the hub mount) and you can't swap studs out without removing the whole assembly, so I was just trying to do it the easy way.

Do you think a new stud would maybe fit better?

That would obviously be ideal cost wise, since either way I will be removing the hub unit. I would just hate to get it all apart and back together and find the new stud isn't good enough and end up needing an entire unit anyway, ya know?
Unless the hole looks really bad you could try a new stud. It's hind sight but you probably should have used a new one the first time the original one popped. The fresh knurling on the new stud my be enough. For a couple bucks I would try a new stud but there is most likely a new bearing assembly in your near future. Go with a Timken bearing.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:01 PM   #15
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Unless the hole looks really bad you could try a new stud. It's hind sight but you probably should have used a new one the first time the original one popped. The fresh knurling on the new stud my be enough. For a couple bucks I would try a new stud but there is most likely a new bearing assembly in your near future. Go with a Timken bearing.
That's the thing, it doesn't look bad at all. When I pull it through with a lug and spacer on the impact, it seems real tight and doesn't budge at all. But once I loosen it all back up to put the rotor on, it comes out again with just a little bit of force.

Thanks for the help. I will take it apart this weekend and try a new stud. If not, I guess a few weeks down the line a new hub will be in order.

As long as I'm not doing any offroading, i'm thinking a 4 stud setup will be ok for the time being right?
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:13 PM   #16
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That's the thing, it doesn't look bad at all. When I pull it through with a lug and spacer on the impact, it seems real tight and doesn't budge at all. But once I loosen it all back up to put the rotor on, it comes out again with just a little bit of force.

Thanks for the help. I will take it apart this weekend and try a new stud. If not, I guess a few weeks down the line a new hub will be in order.

As long as I'm not doing any offroading, i'm thinking a 4 stud setup will be ok for the time being right?
For the sake of safty I don't want to say running on the 4 remaining studs is ok but I have seen done many times. I would also try to avoid high speed manuvers.

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