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Old 11-09-2013, 01:31 PM   #1
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Front Track Bar Cotter Pin broke...

Hey guys, I ordered the MC Adjustable track bar and when I went to take mine off yesterday, the cotter pin ends on the frame side fell apart as soon as I put the pliers on it. It is in kind of a funny position, with the back of the cotter facing towards me and the nubs of the ends facing inwards towards the Jeep.

Any ideas how I can get that damn thing out?

Only thing I can think of right now is to buy some dykes to cut the back end that is facing me in half and hope I can get the pliers on the cut nubs, but it may be frozen in there from rust if the cotter was bad enough to disintegrate.

I also have a torch I could go after it with.

Seeing if anyone else has dealt with this and what your solution was.

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Old 11-09-2013, 01:34 PM   #2
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Try getting a nail thru the loop end and prying it out.

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Old 11-09-2013, 01:50 PM   #3
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If the loop is still intact use a screwdriver or something and pry it out.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:57 PM   #4
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Small drill bit and drill it out if you can get in there with it. If you have a small peice of steel you could use it as a punch and try to punch it out. But if it's in a spot that makes it impossible to fit either a drill or a punch then try like the guy above me said with a nail or something and pry it out. Try heating it up then spray pb blaster on it. I used the torch and spray method on some bolts using fluid film and it works like a charm loosens them right up. I'm not sure of the flashpoint of pb blaster though so be careful!
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:52 PM   #5
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just put a socket or wrench on the bolt and remove, the cotterpin will not stop the nut from turning.
then if reusung the track bar all ya gotta do is remove the leftover piece with w punch or drill bit.
done this many times on ball joint, and tie rods.
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:58 PM   #6
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Disregard it and loosen the castle nut. The remainder of the cotter pin should tear apart while you loosen it. No big deal.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOOPYS-YJ View Post
just put a socket or wrench on the bolt and remove, the cotterpin will not stop the nut from turning.
then if reusung the track bar all ya gotta do is remove the leftover piece with w punch or drill bit.
done this many times on ball joint, and tie rods.
I don't know how you managed to get a socket over the pin since it stuck out a bit on both sides changing the geometry of the castle nut.

With a lot of hitting banging and cussing I finally got it out. Torched it some, drilled into it some, banged it some with a punch until I had broken enough of it off to slip a wrench over it and it came loose like a charm. Kinda surprised me how little.elbow grease I had to use to get it moving once I was able to get the wrench on it.

Struggled a bit to get the bar off once the nut was removed. It was frozen solid. Lotta coaxing with the hammer to the bolt and more torching eventually got it tho.

Pretty disappointed that the MC bar had bolts bigger than the stock holes tho and I was running out of daylight. Will go back at it tomorrow and park my rig in the meantime....
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:54 PM   #8
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Hold on....

You didn't know the MC bar uses larger bolts?

Think about this. What's the biggest bolt you could fit through the factory taper on the frame mount? Maybe 1/2"? Would you trust a 1/2" bolt in that application? I surely wouldn't. A 5/8" bolt is SOP for a single shear track bar setup, especially when it comes to the required torque to prevent mechanical precession from becoming an issue. It is an absolute necessity to run a larger bolt on the frame side so I'm not sure why you're upset or surprised about that.

As for the axle side, you should most certainly appreciate the larger 1/2" bolt over there.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #9
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I was disappointed because there were no instructions or anything letting me know I would need to drill it out. Obviously the bigger bolts are preferable but it was unexpected in my install. Wanted to get it on today but couldn't which was a disappointing, especially after all the trouble I had getting it off.

But yeah not everyone knows 100% of everything about Jeeps like you do Imped. We are all impressed with the fact that you already knew that and a first timer didn't. It was good that you took the time to point it out though in case anyone was wondering lol
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Old 11-10-2013, 12:45 PM   #10
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If you go the the mc page and look for the instructions. Check out the tj 3.5" lift instructions. It includes tb install as well.

Get you a good drill, and a good drill bit. Expect to pay around $30 for a good bit(5/8, but you will also need a 1/2" iirc) It will definitely be worth it. You can also put your floorjack under the drill, and lightly jack enough to put upwards force on it. Cutting oil is necessary imo. Esp since you just paid $30 for a bit. You will appreciate the floorjack method. Its gonna take enough hands to keep the drill from twisting. Make sure you are drilling level. If not you will have a mess

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