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Old 03-29-2007, 04:55 PM   #1
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Front trackbar recomendations

I've had a small wobble in my front steering for years that I learned to live with. Everything is tight and I just gave up on looking for the cause. Today my son was playing with the steering, turning the wheel back and forth, while I was out of the Jeep and it was parked. I saw my problem. The Full Tracktion Kit I run has an aftermarket front Trackbar. The thing is bending and wigling all over the place. WHAT A PIECE OF CRAP! It looks like it's made of rubber. I can only imagine how much it moves when under stress. Obviously, I need to replace it. I run a Teraflex rear trackbar and it's worked good, but I'd like some 1st hand recomendations of a good quality choice for the front.

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Old 03-29-2007, 05:40 PM   #2
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Been there done that. Take a look at JKS.

I had the same problem you're describing with a Superlift and I switched it out for the JKS and now the problem is solved.

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Old 03-29-2007, 06:05 PM   #3
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Not the popular answer here, but I run the Rubicon Express adjustable front trackbar. Had it for well over a year and had no problems with it. Smacked it pretty good on a rock and had no damage other than chipping the coating.
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Not the popular answer here, but I run the Rubicon Express adjustable front trackbar. Had it for well over a year and had no problems with it. Smacked it pretty good on a rock and had no damage other than chipping the coating.
I agree, I run the RE 1610 Trac-Bar and Drop Bracket and it has worked out fine for me. It was part of a complete setup I have had on for 3 years now.

However if I was just going to buy one I'd probably look to JKS myself.
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:14 PM   #5
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I agree, I run the RE 1610 Trac-Bar and Drop Bracket and it has worked out fine for me. It was part of a complete setup I have had on for 3 years now.

However if I was just going to buy one I'd probably look to JKS myself.
The 1610 is an alright track bar. The 1600 is not!

I still prefer JKS over any other track bar. That is... if you have must run a track bar
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:16 PM   #6
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Is anyone running the Skyjacker trackbar which relocates to the top of the axle. It sounds good to me.
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:18 PM   #7
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Is anyone running the Skyjacker trackbar which relocates to the top of the axle. It sounds good to me.
oh dear lord.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:16 PM   #8
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What Clifford? I don't run anything Skyjacker right now, but you sound like you don't like them. I'm all for barand loyalty, but the Skyjacker one is a different design than anything else I've seen. All trackbars are inherently weak, as they have bends in them. The Skyjacker one is completely straight. Seems as if the new design would be stronger. Check it out and then give me your comments.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:28 PM   #9
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I'm not real big on Skyjacker products either. With that trac bar alone I think the steering is going to be out of whack with the drag link and cause bump steer. You would need to add in some sort of hi-steer with a new passenger side knuckle to put everything in the right plane again.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:30 PM   #10
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whats the difference between RE and JKS, only difference i see is RE joint and Johnnie joint. whats the Diff between the two??
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
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whats the difference between RE and JKS, only difference i see is RE joint and Johnnie joint. whats the Diff between the two??
quality.

If you hold the RE track bar in your weak hand and the JKS is your strong hand you can feel the difference
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:34 PM   #12
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What Clifford?
I just haven't seen one area where Skyjacker has been at the top. If they came out with a new product that was better than anything else I would suggest you run skyjacker. I won't ever have to sway you to there product.

I agree with Jack. Adjusting height on the axle end of your track bar will require other steering modifications. Your drag link and track bar should be as parallel as possible.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:41 PM   #13
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I just haven't seen one area where Skyjacker has been at the top. If they came out with a new product that was better than anything else I would suggest you run skyjacker. I won't ever have to sway you to there product.

I agree with Jack. Adjusting height on the axle end of your track bar will require other steering modifications. Your drag link and track bar should be as parallel as possible.
And for that matter the Tera Flex Hi-Steer kit is equally poor since they don't include relocating the trac bar with it.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dirt View Post
Is anyone running the Skyjacker trackbar which relocates to the top of the axle. It sounds good to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple Scout View Post
Been there done that. Take a look at JKS.

I had the same problem you're describing with a Superlift and I switched it out for the JKS and now the problem is solved.
I guess you missed this ^^^^
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:45 PM   #15
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never heard of a re track bar failing have you? everything is pretty much the same except the joint at the frame.
oh one is 160 and the other is 220. take a guess at which one is more cash

i know your not saying RE is crap and im not saying JKS is crap.
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:54 AM   #16
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never heard of a re track bar failing have you?
All the time. I had the RE 1610 on the front of my jeep. I pretzeled it going pretty slow through a rock garden. I pulled it, straightened it back out and welded a gusset along the top edge.

I know this is a crappy pic but you get the idea.



I don't base my opinions off of what I read on the internet. I have an unbiased opinion on the products I promote because I believe them to be of higher quality than any other product you can buy.

So, lets do your math. 160. Bend the track bar. Another 160 for those that can't weld or have access to a press = 320. Which is more expensive than the 220 you pay for the JKS. Which, if you shop around you can get cheaper. Dirk at DPG sells the front adjustable JKS track bar for 204 shipped.

In my endless pursuit I haven't read anyone bending the JKS track bar. I'm sure it has happened but I haven't bent it and I haven't even read of someone doing it. 60 dollars is a small price to pay for peace of mind. I would have run the JKS if it were possible on my jeep
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Old 03-30-2007, 09:40 AM   #17
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Talking

Tubing is tubing wether it be from JKS RE rancho, whatever.

jks
Made from 1.25" x .156 DOM tubing
Re
the old 1610 bars are 1.25 x.120
the new verison on the 1610 coming out in about a month will be 1 3/8 x.188

so were talking a difference of .036 dont think thats gonna help if you tag a rock on it the way you pretzled that RE bar.
one 16th is .062 so were talkin half a 16th a 30second or something like that. unless the JKS has a superior powder coat and sticker. thats add strength and Horspower haha

That gusset job looks pretty good. what jeep does that Bar go to??? doesnt look like mine, i have different bends in it.

honestly your is the first i have seen that bent. but good info to know. if mine goes boom ill either grab a JKS or the newer HD version of the 1610 bar pending on price.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:29 AM   #18
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It still feels to me like you are trying to justify your purchase over alternative track bars. You said...

Quote:
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everything is pretty much the same except the joint at the frame.

...when it isn't. The heavier wall tubing is more money. The powder coat process that JKS goes through is worth more money. The rubber ends in the axle are worth a ton more money since the RE craps out all the time and which I have personally replaced 2 times on my junk and at least 3 other vehicles.

I have never once had to deal with maintenance issues on a JKS track bar besides lube.

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so were talking a difference of .036 dont think thats gonna help if you tag a rock on it the way you pretzled that RE bar.

I didn't tag a rock to bend my track bar. I did it right here while turning into a rock.



From what I know about the RE bit they have had enough problems with their track bars to redesign them. My track bar was an older version with the 1 bend. That track bar, with the extreme duty(term used lightly) drop bracket had problems with hitting the axle unless you ran lots of lift and lots of bumpstop. So they made a new one with 2 bends in it to clearance the diff housing. Which wasn't a really smart move. I am not the only person who has seen the track bar bend. But I have seen it put through the courses and hold up.
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Old 03-30-2007, 11:10 AM   #19
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no im not trying to justify my purchase im just comparing the two. im not trying to argue or make fun of JKS ive always said they make a great product. (not trying to piss you off either). I dont know everything and am just trying to learn more.

without discussions and guys like you who know more then the average joe. how are people to know the differences. you have already showed me a couple things i wasnt aware of with RE and JKS. so thank you for sharing your insite


the jks heavier tubing is only a 30 second thicker. in my opinion that doesnt justify spending the extra bucks. now going from a .120wall to a .188 does. on the same note going from the JKS .156 to the new RE .188 doesnt. id go with the JKS if it costs less.


a powder coat process is a powder coat process, theres nothing magical that JKS does. sand blast/sand off and clean off all debris. coat the metal "X" amount and put it in the oven.
yes you can have a crappy powder coat job done, but i doubt any top of the line manufacturer goes half ass on it.

JKS TJ bar has 2 bends in it as well. are they superior bends use with a better tube bender?? i doubt it.

yea i had the same bushing wear out on my RE bar too. ive had this new joint in for a while now and no prolems yet. but i think its the same durathane bushing that JKS uses. could be wrong. on mine its for sure not OE rubber.
on the ones you replaced did the Inner sleeve become "loose" in the bushing? thats what happened with mine. so i was getting a click noise when turning the steering wheel.

also what long arm kit are you runnging?? jeep looks sweet man
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Old 03-30-2007, 11:31 AM   #20
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a powder coat process is a powder coat process, theres nothing magical that JKS does. sand blast/sand off and clean off all debris. coat the metal "X" amount and put it in the oven.
yes you can have a crappy powder coat job done, but i doubt any top of the line manufacturer goes half ass on it.

You can believe what you want about powder coating. I will continue to promote the JKS product as better than most.

I believe the best track bar to be none at all. If you have to run one it should be straight. The lesser the bend the stronger the bar. The thicker the tube, the stronger the bar.

Quote:
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but i think its the same durathane bushing that JKS uses. could be wrong.
You are wrong. The JKS uses a stock style rubber bushing for comfort and longevity.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawkon View Post
on the ones you replaced did the Inner sleeve become "loose" in the bushing? thats what happened with mine. so i was getting a click noise when turning the steering wheel.
The bushing wore out over the sleeve causing excessive axle movement while wheeling and at speed letting the steering wander. The bushing included with the RE track bar is NOT extreme duty and is a step back from stock in my opinion.

Quote:
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also what long arm kit are you runnging?? jeep looks sweet man
In that picture those are RE long arms with their flat belly skid. I have since sold all that stuff (that was extreme duty) and gone all custom. My junk doesn't really look like that anymore.


For the record. You aren't "pissing me off". If you were I would let you know in a none public way. The conversation we are having is extremely important to those who want to know about certain products.
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Old 03-30-2007, 02:44 PM   #21
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Bottom line IMO on the JKS vs. RE trac bar debate seems to be a couple different features that add to the price of the JKS.

1st is the steel. JKS does use bigger tubing which does increase cost.

2nd is the Johnie Joint. These IMO are far superior to the RE cartridge joint and I would pay more for them. (I was going to switch over to using JJ's on my entire suspension before I decided to go in a different direction)

3rd is that JKS matches the OEM specs on their trac-bar bends. People can scream upgrade, upgrade all they want, but in my experience 90% of the time an OEM part will outlast an aftermarket part.

Putting all things together along with the reputation's of both companies I believe that the JKS is a better product than the RE and I even run the RE 1610.
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Old 03-30-2007, 03:12 PM   #22
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:32 PM   #23
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haha a hole can o worms, naw i see the light lol

Like ive been saying, im not talking bad about JKS stuff at all.

I asked ealier about the JJ vs RE joint. Becasue i didnt know the difference betwwen the two in detail. and i couldnt find any details about them anywhere just price.

JKS uses the poly joint in the rear TB not the front i thought it was the other way around. (now clarified)

thanks for your insight guys (mainly MrC). I hope we didnt confuse the hell out of anyone

thats another great thing about this board then others. typically there would have been about 4 or 5 insults and 10 people chiming in with useless posts.
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:39 PM   #24
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To add one more useless post I like JKS but just so no one is confused about RE's 1610, it holds up very well too. It does fine for me, it most recently did just fine on Sledgehammer where I managed to bend my Currie drag link and tie rod on my last run through there in February.
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:30 PM   #25
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btw people besides the wall thickness of the tubing we need to look at RC strength after the bars have been heat treated. I work with metals and many times i've ripped off 1" solid bars to pieces where i cant even bend a well heat treated 3/4" bar.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:02 PM   #26
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I don't know what a jj joint is exactly could someone explain? pics?
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:02 AM   #27
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I don't know what a jj joint is exactly could someone explain? pics?
A type of flex joint - http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:25 AM   #28
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Heres a question for you guys...

can a JKS trackbar be used with an RockKrawler TB frame bracket? How about the RE1610?

The reason I'm asking is because the RK trackbar that came with my lift appears to be too long for the amount of lift I have. It is adjusted as short as it can be but the drivers front coil is just a 1/4" away from the RK TB frame bracket. I'd like to run a slightly shorter front track bar to pull the coil further away from the RK bracket. I'm going to grind that RK bracket back a bit, but as my new lifts coils settle over time that track bar is going to be pulled into the drivers side front coil again.

So I'm lookiing at the RE1610 which has thicker wall than it had previously by the way. OR the JKS track bar.

can either of those work with the RK TB frame bracket???? will I need custom missalignment spacers to make them fit in the RK bracket or is it plug and play?

I'm stopping of at Joe's shop this morning to drop some things off there... gonna see what he thinks too.

Thanks,

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Old 10-18-2007, 03:38 PM   #29
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Heres a question for you guys...

can a JKS trackbar be used with an RockKrawler TB frame bracket? How about the RE1610?

The reason I'm asking is because the RK trackbar that came with my lift appears to be too long for the amount of lift I have. It is adjusted as short as it can be but the drivers front coil is just a 1/4" away from the RK TB frame bracket. I'd like to run a slightly shorter front track bar to pull the coil further away from the RK bracket. I'm going to grind that RK bracket back a bit, but as my new lifts coils settle over time that track bar is going to be pulled into the drivers side front coil again.

So I'm lookiing at the RE1610 which has thicker wall than it had previously by the way. OR the JKS track bar.

can either of those work with the RK TB frame bracket???? will I need custom missalignment spacers to make them fit in the RK bracket or is it plug and play?

I'm stopping of at Joe's shop this morning to drop some things off there... gonna see what he thinks too.

Thanks,

Ben

I've got my solution... confirmed that there are plenty of threads in the RK TB, so I'm going to cut the RK TB about 3/4" shorter. Also going to grind a little off of the RK TB frame bracket corner that is closest to the drivers side coils. problem solved. I'm glad I'm keeping the RK trackbar as its probably the strongest TB out there. Plus, its already paid for.

These are just minor tweaks. I'm extremely happy with this lift. The stability alone is amazing.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:02 PM   #30
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okay i knew what those where just didn't know thats what they were called.

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