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Old 07-05-2006, 08:56 PM   #1
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Gear Question!

I have a 97 wrangler with a 4.0, auto, and 3.07 gears. I am running 31x10.50 tires. What gear ratio would be best? Spend 40% off-road. What is a good brand ring and pinion? Also thinking about a Powertrax no-slip? Any suggestions??

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Old 07-05-2006, 09:08 PM   #2
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If you are spending 40% off road, you will want to gear downnnnn. You will also want too get larger tires. This is one of those situations where you have to think ahead. You do not want to spend more money then you have to. Get a 4" lift from Rough Country, and put some 33" tires on there. For gears you want 4.56's front and rear, and then while your re-gearing, put in some lockers, front and rear. Now you are ready for some serious fun. You understand that this is just my .02. But that is the only way to go, if you are that serious about off roading.

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Old 12-06-2006, 05:56 PM   #3
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i am getting a 4" rough country suspension lift with a 2" bl and 35" x 12.50" tires, im not sure what im going to need to change my gearing to, any recommendations?
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by puddlepirate35 View Post
i am getting a 4" rough country suspension lift with a 2" bl and 35" x 12.50" tires, im not sure what im going to need to change my gearing to, any recommendations?
What gears do you have right now?
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple Scout View Post
What gears do you have right now?
and do you have the 4.0?
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:18 PM   #6
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How do you know what gears you have?
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Old 12-06-2006, 06:31 PM   #7
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It's stamped or tagged on your diffs.
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Old 12-06-2006, 08:21 PM   #8
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im not sure, all i know is that its stock, i have a 05 tj se i believe its a dana 30 in the front a dana 35 in the back with 3.07s, im not sure, its dark out so i cant go out and look right now
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Old 12-06-2006, 08:21 PM   #9
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and yes i have the 4.0L
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Old 12-06-2006, 08:41 PM   #10
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How do you know what gears you have?
there is a metal tag on your rear diff. look to the top left row and there will be a number and then a letter or a space and two numbers below. thats your gear ratio.
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Old 12-06-2006, 11:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puddlepirate35 View Post
i am getting a 4" rough country suspension lift with a 2" bl and 35" x 12.50" tires, im not sure what im going to need to change my gearing to, any recommendations?
I was also thinking about this and am told and heard you will need new sye and and cv mods and some extra stuff.
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:28 AM   #12
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I have almost the same set up, except I am running 33x12.5 Baja Claws. I am currently running 4.56's and have no problem accelerating up hills in 5th gear. I plan on moving up to 35's this coming summer and I'm keeping the same gears since I only offroad maybe 10% of the time. Depending on how much time you spend offroad you may want to go with 4.56's if you spend more of your time on the pavement or 4.88's if your more of an offroader and need that extra bit of grunt. That's my .02, I'm sure you will get numerous other responses contradicting what I'm telling you. You'll just have to sort through the crap. Best of Luck!!!
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Old 12-07-2006, 08:25 AM   #13
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I need a abbreviation code book or something, I can't seem to keep up.

sye ?

cv ?
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:34 AM   #14
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sye= slip yoke eliminator

cv= cv driveshaft

whenever you go up to 4 inches of lift (and sometimes a lot less like 3" or even 2.5") you need a sye and cv driveshaft to eliminate vibrations. at 4 inches you need one even if you aren't getting vibrations because the driveshaft is so short and so far away that it can pull out of the t case or even jam in there and crack or bend it. you have to have both. you can't do one without the other. for example, you can't do a cv driveshaft without the sye. the only way you can do a cv driveshaft without the sye is if you do the cheap "hack and tap" style sye from rubicon express.
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:39 AM   #15
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I need a abbreviation code book or something, I can't seem to keep up.

sye ?

cv ?
I asked for the code book a couple weeks ago but Amerijeep snapped me with a rubber band and told me not to ask again.

(that is one butt ugly cat you got there MOG)
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:28 PM   #16
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I asked for the code book a couple weeks ago but Amerijeep snapped me with a rubber band and told me not to ask again.

(that is one butt ugly cat you got there MOG)
Y'know, there's always someone in the class causing trouble and not allowing those of us who "behave", to learn. (just fold a little piece of paper until you can't fold it any more, then bend the last piece over a rubberband and shoot it at him like a "bow&arrow", It'll thwack him good enough to leave you alone.)

Thanks bigjeep, I still don't know exactly what my Rancho suspension consists of. I don't really think the previous owner knew what he had. I am investigating. I would like to eventually have my Jeep set up properly.

It's funny, my cat looks exactly like the cat in my avatar, exept I haven't been able to get him to make that face yet. Someday I will........
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjeep View Post
sye= slip yoke eliminator

cv= cv driveshaft

whenever you go up to 4 inches of lift (and sometimes a lot less like 3" or even 2.5") you need a sye and cv driveshaft to eliminate vibrations. at 4 inches you need one even if you aren't getting vibrations because the driveshaft is so short and so far away that it can pull out of the t case or even jam in there and crack or bend it. you have to have both. you can't do one without the other. for example, you can't do a cv driveshaft without the sye. the only way you can do a cv driveshaft without the sye is if you do the cheap "hack and tap" style sye from rubicon express.
That's a good explanation BigJeep, but let me elaborate a little.

CV stands for Constant Velocity joint. Your stock driveshaft is a Slip Yoke style shaft. Which means that the yoke for your driveshaft slides over the output shaft of the Tcase. This is where BigJeepers explanation comes in. Because when you move to a Fixed Yoke on the TCase end I.E. Slip Yoke Eliminator you now can no longer use the stock driveshaft with it. Also with an SYE it shortens the output shaft by a good 4-6 incher allowing you to have a longer rear driveshaft (which is badly needed for TJ's because the angle of the driveshaft gets pretty ugly). This is where the CV Joint comes into play on the driveshaft. A Constant Velocity joint will allow the driveshaft to run at a much greater angle than a Slip style drive shaft will. This also allows your driveshaft to be fixed at both ends just like the front is.
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:55 PM   #18
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there is a metal tag on your rear diff. look to the top left row and there will be a number and then a letter or a space and two numbers below. thats your gear ratio.
Another reason to spend part of my Saturday laying on the concrete under my Jeep........
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Old 12-07-2006, 03:42 PM   #19
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That's a good explanation BigJeep, but let me elaborate a little.

CV stands for Constant Velocity joint. Your stock driveshaft is a Slip Yoke style shaft. Which means that the yoke for your driveshaft slides over the output shaft of the Tcase. This is where BigJeepers explanation comes in. Because when you move to a Fixed Yoke on the TCase end I.E. Slip Yoke Eliminator you now can no longer use the stock driveshaft with it. Also with an SYE it shortens the output shaft by a good 4-6 incher allowing you to have a longer rear driveshaft (which is badly needed for TJ's because the angle of the driveshaft gets pretty ugly). This is where the CV Joint comes into play on the driveshaft. A Constant Velocity joint will allow the driveshaft to run at a much greater angle than a Slip style drive shaft will. This also allows your driveshaft to be fixed at both ends just like the front is.
Wait a minute!!!.... that was too fast!!!... can you start again from "CV stands...." .... ...

I need a diagram... or I'm doomed!!

Miko
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:06 PM   #20
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Wait a minute!!!.... that was too fast!!!... can you start again from "CV stands...." .... ...

I need a diagram... or I'm doomed!!

Miko
Nice. Look at the front and just imagine the rear as being shorter.
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Old 12-07-2006, 05:26 PM   #21
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Another reason to spend part of my Saturday laying on the concrete under my Jeep........
Man up and park it in gravel
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Old 12-07-2006, 05:37 PM   #22
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Man up and park it in gravel
Sorry, no can do, no gravel within miles of my house.
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:54 PM   #23
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Me or a different amerijeep?

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I asked for the code book a couple weeks ago but Amerijeep snapped me with a rubber band and told me not to ask again.
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:55 PM   #24
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It must have been another Amerijeep..........
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:42 PM   #25
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Another reason to spend part of my Saturday laying on the concrete under my Jeep........
yeah i used to do that too. untill i got kicked out of the garage
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Old 12-07-2006, 10:36 PM   #26
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Me or a different amerijeep?
It was you, don't try and look so innocent. I'm not buying it.
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Old 12-08-2006, 01:28 PM   #27
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Gears are a big debate and it comes down to personal preference. Most people will preach low low low for any application over stock. But it depends on how your driving it too. If your doin trail/crawling then a low gear is what you want. If your doin sand and or mud and need to turn the tires faster, a higher gear may be in order. Having an automatic with the 4.0 liter, with 35's you would be better off with 4:10's and your auto would pull it great for highway and sand/mud. If you are goin rocks, then you would want 4:56-4:88. But on the flip side the lower end gears are goin to eat gas mileage on the highway but pull better on take off. Gears arent always the answer to any power equation. Sure 4:88s will make it pull like a beast, but the amount of transfer of torque to the axle shafts arent made to take that kind of load. With the auto if your wanting good performance go with a mild gear 4:10 or even 3:73s, and think about a couple air flow or engine mods to compensate and even it out. And if you want massive take off and mediocre highway speed then do 4:56. Its all a matter of picking the right range for you and for everyone who has ran different ratios, their opinion is goin to be different.
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:34 AM   #28
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I've got to agree with Mudweiser, I didn't realize you had an automatic, my bad. I have a manual tranny in mine. The 4.56's with your auto would be pretty low.
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Old 12-12-2006, 09:00 AM   #29
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I have the 2.5L with the 5 speed manual in my TJ. It's my daily driver, and for now I keep the 33's in the garage and run the stock 215-75-15's because they're a bit cheaper to replace when they wear out. Plus I get more pedal-to-tire power for street driving this way. I would like to eventually drive with the 33's all the time (just looks so much cooler).
If I go from 4.10's to 4.56's will it make a big difference on my gas mileage, turning the 33's ?
I'm getting 17-18 mpg city now.
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Old 12-12-2006, 09:18 AM   #30
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MOG, since you aren't using those 33s can I use them I'll give them back the minute you ask.

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