Exactly as the title says. I just got my engine replaced (at 4.0) and now it's hard to shift and it grinds when I try going into reverse. Is it something that needs to just be worn in since it's a new engine?
did you do the install yourself? Check your clutch fluid level to make sure that the slave cylinder was not cracked or broken during engine removal/installation
I would take it back to that shop and make them fix it before I started messing with it. The clutch is between the engine and trans so there is a great possibility they messed something up.
I will check it out! Majnoon, I have a feeling your stalking me now :lmao:
Just kidding
But also an update! I was out all night fishing and let my jeep cool down, the gears seemed to change smoother for like 3 minutes after start up, or until it heated up a bit. Also when I was a stop light on a hill, I put the jeep in neutral and let off the break, instead of gravity doing its thing and me rolling backwards, the jeep creeped forward a bit and then stopped as if I applied the breaks. The rpms didn't change at all and I couldn't replicate it.
Now I'm thinking the clutch that was installed is no good or it was installed improperly. The hard shifting combined with your drift makes me think that your clutch isn't disengaging fully when you depress the pedal. Take it right back to the shop. I think the best case is maybe air bubbles in the slave cylinder or a mis-aligned shift linkage. Otherwise it needs to come apart.
The hard shifting combined with your drift makes me think that your clutch isn't disengaging fully when you depress the pedal. Take it right back to the shop.
A
So update, I'm super pissed, I found a puddle of oil under my jeep after work, now whether it was motor or gear, im not sure. Both the oil pan and the front of transmission was wet
If the front seal in tyranny leaks it can contaminate clutch and make it slip
Engine rear main seal can also put lubricant inside the bell but it is in front of the flywheel and does not get on clutch disk so does not contaminate the clutch
The whole thing makes little spence as he said it crept uphill in neutral and if it really was in neutral clutch dragging or even fully engaged would not make a difference in neutral
If it was in gear with pedal full down then a dragging clutch might propel vehicle a little
Once a fellow had a clutch that would not disengage because he installed the clutch pad inverted ( wrong side toward the flywheel)
The whole thing makes little spence as he said it crept uphill in neutral and if it really was in neutral clutch dragging or even fully engaged would not make a difference in neutral
what do you mean by this? Just to clarify, it was in neutral, clutch out and when I took my foot off the brake it crept forward, but it only did it that once, and yes, before someone asks, I was at a complete stop when I let off the brake.
Park on level ground and verify with engine off tranny in neutral and park brake OFF that vehicle does not roll forward or back
Leave park brake off place tranny in 1st (where engine has max leverage over wheels) depress clutch fully and keep foot off brake pedal. Crank and see if jeep moves forward at all (if it does clutch is dragging)
If it does drag try again first pumping clutch full down 5 times and holding down on 5th pump again crank starter and if this time does not move may be air in clutch hydraulics.
I'm going to run through and read all the new posts, but I first I want to share how incredibly stupid this guy is. "oh no, it's shifting fine!" as he shoves the shifter into first gear, trying to make it seem like he wasn't trying.
I've never seen one first hand on a Jeep that was installed backwards (and not even sure if it would be possible) On some other makes the springs on the the clutch plate drag the flywheel/crankshaft bolts, and on some the plate hub doesn't even fit in the bolt recess on the flywheel side, so I'm just not sure. If some one had a loose flywheel and clutch plate laying around, they could probably tell you if it was possible. Bottom line is, if the clutch worked fine before the engine swap, but not after, they should be responsible for fixing it.
wel lthats good, but it still doesnt help my hard shifting into first and second and grinding reverse :/ I have found out something that could be PRETTY important! I found out the that it shifts PERFECTLY when the jeep is off, it's only hard when it's running, what does that tell you guys?
Flintstone it! I have no experience
With this. Very curious. When I did my clutch I think it would have fit backwards. Has writing on it telling you how it goes. ( hard to see on a luk) Sorry no answers just curious.
The syncros match the engaging gear rotational speeds so the teeth can mesh without grinding
If the jeep is stopped the output is not turning and if the engine is off the input is not turning so the speeds already match
As you drive with each different gear the ratio of front to back rotation has to change
Pushing in the clutch disconnects the input from the engine but only the scncro can bring the next gears input side up or down to the proper speed to match the output connected to and controlled by your speed of travel ( rear wheels)
At least in the TJ 5 speeds neither 1st or reverse have syncros so you avoid grind by doing two things
1 only engage 1st or reverse if stopped
And
2 first put tranny in 2nd with clutch in then with clutch still in shift into 1st or reverse
Since stopped tranny output is still then shifting into 2nd you use the 2nd gear syncro to stop input rotation so now as both input and output are stopped it can be shifted to 1 or reverse without grinding
The syncros match the engaging gear rotational speeds so the teeth can mesh without grinding
If the jeep is stopped the output is not turning and if the engine is off the input is not turning so the speeds already match
As you drive with each different gear the ratio of front to back rotation has to change
Pushing in the clutch disconnects the input from the engine but only the scncro can bring the next gears input side up or down to the proper speed to match the output connected to and controlled by your speed of travel ( rear wheels)
At least in the TJ 5 speeds neither 1st or reverse have syncros so you avoid grind by doing two things
1 only engage 1st or reverse if stopped
And
2 first put tranny in 2nd with clutch in then with clutch still in shift into 1st or reverse
Since stopped tranny output is still then shifting into 2nd you use the 2nd gear syncro to stop input rotation so now as both input and output are stopped it can be shifted to 1 or reverse without grinding
Well first doesnt have any synros and thats the gear im having msot of my trouble in, the shifter doesnt want to go into gear, it feels like its catching on something before it finally pops in, the same with second. I tried that shifting to second first thing, but its also hard to get into second and even after doing that its still hard to shift into first gear.
Im going to try a different test tomorrow where you actually jack up the back tires and press the clutch in and see if they spin, ill keep you all updated
Update, I changed the tranny fluid, it didnt have any chunks of metal in there (to my relief), but it did have some metal flakes that were orange on one side and well silver on the other, there was only a small amount of these flakes, but is it anything to be worried about? also the fluid was a dark brown, cloudy, and the viscosity was VERY thin, like it was almost like the consistency of water. Changing the fluid still doesnt resolve my problem, and the guys at the shop (that did my engine swap) are basically telling me that it's all in my head. I'm bringing it into an actual tranny shop tomorrow to get it diagnosed. I jsut hope they dont try to stiff me and get me to buy something I don't need.
Synchros are brass and they wear out but you don't have that problem because it worked fine before the engine swap. The metal is probably synchro material but a little bit in the fluid is normal.
Just FYI, the Jeep transmissions do have synchronized 1st gears. Reverse is the only gear that isn't. If 1st gear wasn't syncro'd, you would have to come to a complete stop before shifting into 1st.....like the old days..:happyyes:..there's probably only a few of us around here can remember that far back...!
Yep I got that wrong but as my first car was a TR3 I treat all manuals as no 1st syncro and only shift to first at full stop with a quick trip to 2nd first
TR3 huh? That's funny, I used to like to autocross MGB's way way back. 1969 comes to mind. I do the same and am always at a stop when I go to first, and go through second on the way there.
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