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Old 08-17-2010, 09:51 PM   #1
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Hard Wire a head unit????

Someone broke into my jeep (well it was unlocked as always) and they stole my factory radio. Why they would I do not know but they cut the harness so I will have to hardwire it to the new head unit that i bought. Has anyone done this before and can anyone offer a step by step? I would just take it some where but im saving up for other mods and dont feel like wasting anymore money. Thanks for any help. The new stereo is a Pioneer 2200 something. here Pioneer DEH-2200UB In-Dash Head Unit Car Stereo - CD/MP3/WMA/USB Receiver, Wireless Remote Control, 3-Band Equalizer, Volume Control at TigerDirect.com

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Old 08-17-2010, 10:11 PM   #2
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oh man... I've done a few on older cars, including my DJ (totally different story.. I had to wire the entire DJ from scratch anyway, so...), but a "how to" just doesn't work that well normally...

best advice is to go get a Haynes manual so you can go over the schematics and find out what color wire is what on your jeep...

radio side they should be marked if it's new, but if not, on a pioneer they almost always use the same color wiring... yellow for always on, red for switched, black for ground. green and purple for speakers. You'd have to google it to be sure though.

It can be done, just a matter of figuring out what wires do what on the jeep... biggest worry is hooking up a hot jeep wire to a sound channel on the pioneer (you'll take out that entire speaker channel at least, and might even let the magic smoke out, and we all know how much fun that stuff is to get back in...) Use a multimeter to be sure, and check each wire with the ignition on and then shut it off, take out the key, and OPEN THE DOOR to check it when off.

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Old 08-17-2010, 10:40 PM   #3
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Here this should help with the colors.


Then you have two options, wire directly, or go to junk yard and cut off another vehicle end harnes so it's half way normal again.

If you wire directly here's the radio end colors, they are the same for most any aftermarket radio.

yellow - constant 12v
red - switched 12v
black - ground
blue - amp turn on lead
blue/white - power antenna
orange - illumination wire (parking lights)

white - left front +
white/black - left front -
grey - right front +
grey/black - right front -
green - left rear +
green/black - left rear-
purple - right rear +
purple/black - right reat -
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:43 PM   #4
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whats the best method to putting the wires together? ive been hearing different things from friends. and thanks for the above two posts both help
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:47 PM   #5
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Strip about 3/4" of wire, touch together like an X, then twist together in opposite directions. Should end up with a clean connection that doesn't have much "bulk". If you aren't soldering you'll want to make sure the first thing you do after the X is to make a hook if that makes any sense. So your wire on the "left side" gets twisted back to the "left side".. That helps it resist pulling apart but makes it a little fatter of a twist.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:50 PM   #6
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This looks like some good info. May be more helpful with the pics than what I am able to explain...
Connection options, splicing wires and how to do it right, and WRONG!
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:53 PM   #7
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sorry for all the questions but exactly which wires connect to which. sounds like a dumb questions but really i need to know where does the ground wire connect. ive put in stereos with a harness but never likes this i just dont wanna mess anything up. so if you could dummy proof it.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:57 PM   #8
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Factory Side
~~ Pioneer

1 RD/WT FUSED B(+) ~~ Yellow
2 PK FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT ~~ Red
3 OR PANEL LAMPS DRIVER
4 - -
5 - -
6 - -
7 VT RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+) ~~ Gray
8 DB RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-) ~~ Gray/Black
9 BR/RD LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-) ~~ White/Black
10 DG LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+) ~~ White
11 BK GROUND
12 RD/WT FUSED B(+)
13 LG RADIO 12V OUTPUT
14 VT/YL PCI BUS
15 - -
16 - -
17 - -
18 BR/YL LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) ~~ Green
19 BR/LB LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) ~~ Green/Black
20 DB/PK RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) ~~ Violet/Black
21 DB/WT RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) ~~ Violet
22 BK GROUND


But dont hold me to it, make sure and test the wires with a test lamp or multimeter
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:59 PM   #9
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IIRC chrysler harness do not provide a ground by default if you have no plug. If you know what the ground wire was before, test and use it. Otherwise, run your ground wire to some metal piece behind the dash that is connected to the body.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:03 PM   #10
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For making the connections you should use crimp type butt splices, the red ones or blue. Its the type where the wires butt together and you crimp it on each side.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:03 PM   #11
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i love this fourm
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepersbatman View Post
For making the connections you should use crimp type butt splices, the red ones or blue. Its the type where the wires butt together and you crimp it on each side.
Only if you like loose connections. Crimp connections on something like this should only be a temp solution. Don't mean any offense, Sorry.

I should probably say this is a recommendation from "the pros" ... I don't like telling people what to do.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwm1986

Only if you like loose connections. Crimp connections on something like this should only be a temp solution. Don't mean any offense, Sorry.

I should probably say this is a recommendation from "the pros" ... I don't like telling people what to do.
Unless you wanna solder then use crimps get the thomas and betts brand their good. Im an electrician and have probably installed 100 or so custom stereos havent had a good crimp fail yet.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepersbatman

Unless you wanna solder then use crimps get the thomas and betts brand their good. Im an electrician and have probably installed 100 or so custom stereos havent had a good crimp fail yet.
No offense jwm1986 most factory harnesses are a crimp type. Look at the back of one. Been doing this fourteen years, just saying from experience.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepersbatman View Post
Unless you wanna solder then use crimps get the thomas and betts brand their good. Im an electrician and have probably installed 100 or so custom stereos havent had a good crimp fail yet.
Ok Mr. Electrician, all I am saying is that of the two, twist/solder is def the better choice. He never said he couldn't solder!
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepersbatman View Post
No offense jwm1986 most factory harnesses are a crimp type. Look at the back of one. Been doing this fourteen years, just saying from experience.
The wires in the molex connectors? Of course... If you crimp right that's great. But most of the time when people brought in radio's to me that weren't working it's because they did a cheapo crimp job with improper tools and cheap connectors. That's MY professional experience as a certified installer. Lets not turn this into a "who can do it better" match, please. It is only advice. Take it or leave it.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:35 PM   #17
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i can solder im planning on doing that and wrap in elec tape. how should i test them to make sure all the connections are good before soldering?
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:35 PM   #18
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I agree just make sure to use flux, and before you make a joint slide a peice of heat shrink over the wires to insulate the joint. Just given my $.02. Anyway hope this helps.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:39 PM   #19
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i can solder im planning on doing that and wrap in elec tape. how should i test them to make sure all the connections are good before soldering?
I would hook everything up loosely, then try to fire up the radio and see that everything works correctly. Then make it permanent. Also, I would strongly suggest using heat shrink instead of tape. It's very easy to use. Just get the right size and slip over the wire before you secure the connection. Then use a heat gun, or if you don't have one a plain 'ol light works fine, just don't leave the heat on one spot too long or it burns!
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:51 AM   #20
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I'm pretty partial to these:



Att any radio shack

never had a connection issue with one at all, but they take up a little room
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:42 PM   #21
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i soldered and used heat wrap, works perfectly! Thanks for the help everybody. Now i need to configure a device so no one can steal this one cause that was a big in the a$$!
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:54 PM   #22
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IMHO soldering a headunit is a waste of time....and if your crimp comes loose your using a junk set of crimpers boys
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:07 PM   #23
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Sorry to hear about your stereo, it's something I worry about with mine as well sometimes

Not sure if you've considered this or not, but another option would be to get a replacement oem harness like this one:
Metra Electronics - Dealer Parts Warehouse

Of course if you're installing an aftermarket stereo it might end up being a waste to install an oem harness because then you'd need an adapter too. But anyway, just another option in case you like having the oem stuff intact
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
IMHO soldering a headunit is a waste of time....and if your crimp comes loose your using a junk set of crimpers boys
I completely agree with you NOW after i did that.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:28 PM   #25
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Sorry I didn't see your post till today I've been installing radios professionally for 21 years...the only ones I have ever soldered are the ones in competition cars and all they wanted to see was pictures that it was soldered...waste of frickin time

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