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Has anyone lowered their rear shock mounts?

11K views 68 replies 19 participants last post by  Ehryk 
#1 ·
I'm in the process of mounting JK rear shocks to my TJ (I have been warned against it, but I am stubborn and determined at this point, coil springs are opened and shock bushings trimmed). The shocks are much nicer, bigger diameter, in great condition, and red :)

However, the compressed length (c-c) is 15". I could put 3" bumpstop extensions in if I have to, but would very much rather not.

My question is: does anyone make rear shock DROP brackets, as in they are 2"-4" longer than the stock brackets? I see these on eBay, however they don't claim any additional length:

Jeep Wrangler TJ Rear Shock Weld On Drop Mounts

Or, should I just have this fabricated? I've got an eye toward a true 4" lift w/DC driveshaft next, so I'd likely have to move the shock mounts anyway (or cut away the spring perch), so what I'm really after is a shock drop that will accommodate the 15" JK rears now AND allow me to rotate the pinion angle later without refabrication.

Does anyone think the link above would work for this? I doubt it, because I suspect it's the close to the same distance from the axle tube as the stock ones.

Can anyone recommend a length off the axle for this, ideally someone with a rotated pinion and longer shocks? Or, if something prefabbed exists to drop the shock mounts, like the link above but (perhaps) longer, where would I buy it? Would it be better off to have the entire thing fabricated?

The thing in all of this that gives me hope is the following 4" lift kit does not include bumpstop extensions, thus implying that I can get a full 4" lift by dropping the shock mounts instead of limiting downtravel, which is my ultimate goal.

Jeep Wrangler TJ 4” X-Series Lift Kit
 
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#2 ·
The last thing you want to do is reduce the ground clearance between trail obstacles and your lower shock mounts. The simple answer is to run the right length shocks, don't do something like that just so you can run JK shocks that are simply too long.
 
#3 ·
I had those Rough Country lower shock brackets on my Jeep for a time. They were installed by the previous owner as part of an RC 6" LA kit. They do move the lower mount down about... 2"? Max. to be safe I'd plan on them only moving you down an inch. I beat on them pretty good though. A few times I was worried about damaging my shocks, in fact. If you don't ever wheel in a place where you could get hung up on something hard, then those brackets would at least get you close to where you need to be. But if you ever think you'll run over a rock or stump or root, etc... I wouldn't put them on. Speaking from personal experience.

Have you considered outboarding your rear shock mounts? That would allow you to run the extended length shocks that you want without sacrificing the ground clearance with the lowered axle shock mounts. It can be done for relatively cheap by using Ford shock towers and cheap axle mounts that run $25 a pair.
 
#4 ·
The simple answer is to run the right length shocks, don't do something like that just so you can run JK shocks that are simply too long.
I understand your sentiment, and was told as much from Unlimited04, but I'm doing this. Later on, I would like to do a DC driveshaft, rotate the pinion, and a 2"-4" lift that doesn't require bumpstop extensions, and would consider outboarding at that juncture if that was the best / only option.

However, I'm mounting the 15" JK shocks. I'd prefer to not blow them out or break my lower mounts off, so provided this is happening what is the best way to go about it? Order prefabbed drop mounts or have it all custom fabbed?

If I can only count on 1" from Rough Country drop brackets, that probably would require at least 1.5" bumpstop extensions, if not 2". So - custom fabricate them then?

To be honest, I won't be doing much wheeling until the lift/DC is in, I moved to Minneapolis, don't have many good wheeling spots nearby, and want to just get the worn out crap replaced for now, so I'd sacrifice some ground clearance for the time being.
 
#5 ·
.... while I suppose it follows that I could just temporarily add the bumpstop extensions for the time being, I can (and do) bottom out from speed humps. Bottoming out over the next year will be annoying, and I won't likely ever run into issues with ground clearance in the snow or light trails.

By contrast, if I put the bumpstop extensions in, I very well may bottom out frequently. I will pay extra in fabrication work to not do this and keep the JK shocks, as I could probably get this done for $50-$100 at a nearby shop (and only paid $100 for JK shocks and springs), rather than new TJ shocks that would ALSO require bumpstop extensions for the 2.5" of lift.

If I am mistaken, and I can buy 2x brand new rear TJ shocks that will accommodate the 2.5" of lift and not require bumpstop extensions for around $100, paste a link and I'll do that instead.
 
#8 ·
I'm so confused because lowering the frame side mounting point is just going to make the shock bottom out sooner. I tried the whole Jk suspension and with the stock tj rear springs and JK shocks I was bottoming out driving over twigs in the road, granted the stock JK shocks gove you a small lift in the rear without bumpstops that you are so against you will still be bottoming out. You need to raise the frame side mounts and the only way to do that is by out boarding the rear shocks.

Now, if you set the bump stops up correctly with the right amount of lift I can see the stock JK shocks giving a nice ride because when I had the front springs and shocks installed it was much nicer then stock.
 
#10 ·
Buy the correct length shocks.
Can I buy 2x brand new rear TJ shocks that will accommodate the 2.5" of lift and not require ANY bumpstop extensions for around $100? Because I got like new takeoffs of all springs and shocks from a JK Rubicon with really low mileage (paint and stickers still intact) for $100, and could probably do it again a few times. Again, if I am mistaken, please let me know and I will purchase said magic shocks if they exist.

FWIW, I'm not saying this isn't possible, this kit or two shocks in tandem on each side could probably get me the lift accommodation (Say 3" more extension than stock) with no loss in compression, but the kit is $4k and I'm sure I cannot get a pair of those for $100.

Game Changer Suspension

'proper length' TJ shocks for a 2"-2.5" lift will all require bumpstop extensions, which I am attempting to avoid at nearly all costs.

I'm so confused because lowering the frame side mounting point is just going to make the shock bottom out sooner
I'm not talking about lowering the frame-side (upper) rear shock mounts, if anything I'd want to raise them into the tub. What I am talking about is dropping the axle-side (lower) rear shock mounts, which may result in some lost ground clearance near the wheels, but this is a tradeoff I am willing to make for my near term goals (not slowing down for speed bumps should give you a picture of what I want, and why I need maximum down travel, and am sick of bottoming out the rear end of my TJ).

Because I plan on redoing most of this before I get back into any serious offroading (4" lift, DC rear drive shaft, tummy tuck, rotated pinion angle, perhaps even outboarding the shocks w/coilovers) I'm not really concerned with the short-term 2" of ground clearance lost. It'll plow through snow just fine all winter.
 
#17 ·
Because I plan on redoing most of this before I get back into any serious offroading (4" lift, DC rear drive shaft, tummy tuck, rotated pinion angle, perhaps even outboarding the shocks w/coilovers) I'm not really concerned with the short-term 2" of ground clearance lost. It'll plow through snow just fine all winter.
Why do something twice?? Ever? You're planning on re-doing this anyway, just forget this idea and wait until you can afford to do what you want. Hell, you can even sell your "fancy" red shocks for the $100 that you paid and be that much closer to having the money saved to do it properly!

Do something once or don't do it at all, I say. You'll end up screwing something up that will cause you heartache down the road when you do change it.
 
#12 ·
He does not listen. He wants people to agree with him and tell him what he is trying is a good idea.

I am sick of people asking for advice and then disregarding it when the advice is not what they want.

Ehryk said:
I understand your sentiment, and was told as much from Unlimited04, but I'm doing this.
Whatever...
 
#19 ·
I am sick of people asking for advice and then disregarding it when the advice is not what they want.
I'm not asking for advice on 'what to do to my TJ?', I'm asking specifically 'How to do X' and I'm sorry, but 'Don't do X do Y instead' is not an answer to the question asked.

I understand the pros and cons very well, and I appreciate the responses from you and Unlimited very much. Doesn't mean I'm going to back out of my entire plan, buy 2" TJ lift shocks for $160 + 2" bumpstop extensions for $30, and spend $190 on top of the JK springs and shocks to have something I don't want (BSEs, smaller diameter shocks, another $160 when they need replacing).

Is it that hard to just give advice on lowering shock mounts? I'll lose some ground clearance, I'm good with that tradeoff. Now how about some advice on what I asked?
 
#23 ·
Or you could slow down?
Haha, not a chance!

The advice you got was, "don't do it because it's a terrible idea." Are you paying attention at all?
Yes, I am paying attention. That isn't an answer or advice on the question that was asked, which is, restated, "What is the best way to lower my rear shock mounts (given that this is going to be done) with an eye toward a rotated pinion in the future?"

Because I am just going off reading some other, helpful, posts that have been provided in links, I ordered some TJ shock relocation brackets and will work with a local shop to have them welded in the location I need, perhaps with some additional drop added if they can't be dropped low enough.

mudb8's custom ones do look nicer though, and may offer me the length extension I need via the angle change as well as the height drop (shock is travelling more of a hypotenuse than a vertical line), and so I will ask the shop how much they'd charge to make me a set. However, it may be somewhat telling that mudb8 soon outboarded his upper mounts as well.

So, to answer my own question, it does not appear that anyone makes them commercially. mudb8 did a great writeup on it here, made another pair and sent them to someone who did a writeup here, and the guy in the youtube video below made his own.

If this is wrong now, or wrong in the future because someone has started making them commercially, please post as such with a link to get them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HZawCa9aOI
 
#28 ·
brandon-99tj; said:
That right there tells us that he understands it is a terrible idea, but is doing it anyway.
No, not quite. I understand that it is the sentiment of others that it is a terrible idea, and yes I'm doing it anyway. It doesn't mean that I agree, but I have considered the pros and cons myself, and am willing to accept the cons.

[QUOTE-88Hatchy;]At 1:37, look how the shock body is going to hit the shock mount when the suspension compresses.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I see this. It could be that the arc of the axle makes it clear, since I doubt he/whoever welded it never bothered to check, but this could be giving too much credit. In any case, it looks as though it could use 5 degrees of rotation or so.

88Hatchy; said:
For Christ's sake, buy the correct shocks.
And what do you propose that 'correct shocks' are for a 2.5" lift with no bumpstop extensions?

You must either mean 'normal' 2" lift shocks + BSE (which I am not interested in as I have mentioned dozens of times at this point), or some other exotic option like the Game Changer setup with more than one shock per wheel.

I'd consider 15"-25" Bilsteins/other aftermarket shocks as 'correct shocks' for what I want, though they too would require raising the rear upper mounts, or lowering the rear shock mounts, or outboarding which does both.
 
#29 ·
Your video link appears to be broken.
Yeah, is there a 'proper' way to add links to youtube videos? It surrounded them with \[URL\] tags automatically, but then shifted everything underneath it outside the post div.
 
#31 · (Edited by Moderator)
As it turns out, I give a care about bump stops. Perhaps this is my tincture of madness.

I'm not asking you to do it, or bragging about it's usefulness. I'm interested in doing it, and looking for, say, a checklist of things to do/avoid or recommendations ABOUT ACTUALLY RELOCATING THE MOUNTS, not how to buy different shocks. I'm well aware of how to do this, thanks.
 
#33 ·
Because I don't plan on going to tires bigger than 31.6" (what I have now) or maybe 33" (which I could accomodate without bumpstops by a body lift), and I want to maximize travel while minimizing vehicle height (lower rollover risk, for one).

Bumpstops limit the minimum height of the suspension, that is their one and only purpose. To keep the same travel, the suspension has to extend further, and to keep the same position in the travel the vehicle rest position has to be higher.

I do not want this. Ideally, I want 12+ inches of travel, riding right at 6" within that travel, and 0" being the axles compressed all the way into the STOCK bumpstops. This probably is extremely costly and will require coilovers, and even then I may only get 10" of travel riding at 5" within that travel.

Does it really matter with regards to the questions asked?
 
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