With the engine idling I would pullover the harness going to the coil rail and see if it makes Any change. Could be removing the rail made an existing wiring or connector issue rear its head.
If it ran fine before and issue remains putting the original plugs back in I would focus on the coil rail-wiring
Also retrace your steps of what you took off to replace the plugs. Do you get everything back on and everything plugged back in?
Don't you hate when something fail and you associate it with work that has just been done....and it has nothing to do with it. How many million man-hours have been lost chasing red herrings. Easy fix though and not too expensive DIY. You save yourself a ton of $$$$ vs. taking it to a shop.
Before replacing the injector, try swapping it to another cylinder & see if the flooding moves with it. It may be staying open because the control wire to the #5 injector is grounded. That might explain the code you are getting. That wire is brown/orange & should pulse a ground signal when the engine is running.
That injector staying open makes me think it is shorted to ground. When your ex the coil rail that wire shorted. That is a ground side switched circuit. I can send you a quick way to test with a test light later.
To test for a shorted control wire to ground check a wiring diagram and the wire going to your computer is your control wire. If you don't have a wiring diagram then disconnect the connector and test both wires with a volt meter. The wire reading zero volts is your control wire
Next hook an incandescent test light to battery positive. With the key off touch the other end of your test light to the control wire of the connector. If your light lights then you either have a short in the control wire or a shorted PCM driver. My guess is the short is in your control. To determine where the short is disconnect the harness at the computer(make sure key is off) and check with your test light again. If it lights with PCM disconnected the short is in your control- go find it and problem solved
Please excuse any spelling as I am doing this from my phone. By the way use only a test light and not a jumper wire. I don't want you to fry a computer by mistake. Your test light shouldn't allow more than 300mA so it is a safe test
I think you will find your short on the back of the valve cover
Ok, injector was fried in #1 when moved. all 6 injectors strapped to a Tupperware tray worked, but that one was stuck open. New injector worked fine in every location but #5. Having difficulty getting to wires on back of head to locate short.
How do you get that cover open that runs over back of valve cover?
Ok, I ended up breaking that little plastic box the harness runs through.
I have continuity on both the + and - wire of the #5 injector plug to the plug into the pcm. NOID light solid when engine running.
I peeled back some of the tape and found what appears to be two butt connectors in the wiring harness. one is solid brown, but the other is not the brown/pink wire from #5injector plug. I found no frayed wires and no breakage in the insulation.
It doesn't. Like I said before hook up your test light to battery positive. With key off unhook the harness at the conputer. Test light to control wire if light goes out short is in your computer-light stays on short is in your harness
That splice isn't factory or at least shouldn't be factory
Is that splice in the wire for that injector? If so I would go straight to that
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