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Old 11-30-2012, 10:52 PM   #1
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Having a hard time getting the Axle Nut off

I'm having a hard time getting the nut off the axle. I sprayed it up with PB Blaaster and WD40 and will try tomorrow. Anyone have any tricks or tips?

I

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Old 11-30-2012, 10:53 PM   #2
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What are you trying to do?

you can try using a torch. You can always use a bigger bar too. Lol.

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Old 11-30-2012, 11:01 PM   #3
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Don't use a torch on that. You really don't want to burn the grease, and seals, out of the unit bearing, or lower ball joint. If you don't have access to a good impact wrench, get a longer cheater.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:03 PM   #4
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Don't use a torch on that. You really don't want to burn the grease, and seals, out of the unit bearing, or lower ball joint. If you don't have access to a good impact wrench, get a longer cheater.

That's why I asked him what he was working on lol. As long as he just heats the nut carefully and doesn't over do it I don't think he would have an issue burning the seals or grease though. A little heat can go a long way. I agree impact, then bigger cheater.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:12 PM   #5
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Stick a hilift jack handle or floorjack handle over that cheater. I would try an impact first though.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:15 PM   #6
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I had to use my impact to get that nut off. It's torqued to 175lbs and its been on there awhile.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:15 PM   #7
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I hate it when my nuts get stuck... Yeah liquid wrench has worked wonders for me, I have heard PB blaster is great as well. Do that for a few days, whack it a bunch, and give it a try. If nothing, heat it up real good with a torch and give it another try
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:33 PM   #8
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I'm trying to change the Ujoint. The one on that side is slopping around. I tried using a pipe and I sprayed it today. I'm going to spray it for a day or two and I'm gonna try to have one of the trucks from work come by and use the more powerful air compressors it has on it. My air is just a small weak tank.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:03 AM   #9
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Put the bar on the right side and lay on your back and bench press it!! Lol
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:36 AM   #10
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Like the others have said, you need a bigger cheater bar. I have used a 6' pipe before as a cheater. That 1/2" breaker bar is tough enough to break that nut loose without causing any damage to the tool or you.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:54 AM   #11
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More leverage! An impact with lots of air volume is the easiest.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:04 AM   #12
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I haven't had factory unit bearing hubs in 10+ years but can't you just remove the bolts that that hold the unit bearing hub to the knuckle? And then pull it all out as one long assembly where you'll have access to the u-joint?

Though a good double anvil 1/2" impact wrench would make short work of that nut.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I'm trying to change the Ujoint. The one on that side is slopping around. I tried using a pipe and I sprayed it today. I'm going to spray it for a day or two and I'm gonna try to have one of the trucks from work come by and use the more powerful air compressors it has on it. My air is just a small weak tank.
No need to get that off to replace your u joints, three bolts and it all comes out/off as a unit.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupremeTeam View Post
I'm trying to change the Ujoint. The one on that side is slopping around. I tried using a pipe and I sprayed it today. I'm going to spray it for a day or two and I'm gonna try to have one of the trucks from work come by and use the more powerful air compressors it has on it. My air is just a small weak tank.
That's what I was worried about. You don't need to remove that in order to change the U joint.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:21 AM   #15
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Sure, you can just pull the hubb assy. from the knuckle, but then you have a whole hubb assy. hanging on the end of the stub shaft when you try to put U-joints in it.
Maybe I shouldn't talk, because I've never replaced axle U-joints with a hub assembly hanging off the end, but it doesn't sound like the easiest way.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:23 AM   #16
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Try "Mouse Milk" brand loosening oil. That stuff is what we use on Aviation to remove stuck nuts and bolts. The trick on this stuff is patience. Wet the threads ( carefully, this stuff is very light and will run off all over the place ) and wait a couple of days to let it penetrate, and put a bit more on the threads every day to keep them wet. You will not believe your eyes when totally rusted threads and nuts come off so easily. You can get this stuff ( also Corrosion -X protectant ) on any Aviation store.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:42 AM   #17
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I see you live in the Northeast like I do. I personally would get it off now, because when that hub goes your going to wish you had... Clean it and use white lithium grease on everything...
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:10 AM   #18
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This morning I got one of the construction trucks at work and got that nut off in 2 mins. The trucks all run high pressure blowers, jack hammers and sand blasters so the compressors on them put out some serious PSI. I see that is what I need to get in my garage.

What do you think is a nice powerful amount of pressure to have? I need to find a new one.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:12 AM   #19
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I see you live in the Northeast like I do. I personally would get it off now, because when that hub goes your going to wish you had... Clean it and use white lithium grease on everything...
I'm cleaning and using never seize on everything as I go but I don't think I have that white lithium grease, I'm gonna have to put that on my list for today.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:14 AM   #20
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I use antiseize on several parts of my TJ like the tie-rod end threads, wheel stud threads, t-case mounting bolt threads, etc. but I can't think of any part of the hub assembly where I'd reach for my can of white lithium grease.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:19 AM   #21
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Like the others have said, you need a bigger cheater bar. I have used a 6' pipe before as a cheater. That 1/2" breaker bar is tough enough to break that nut loose without causing any damage to the tool or you.
I used the pipe from my old floor jack which was about 4 feet long on the end of that breaker bar and it got me no where. I don't know if it was all the stuff I sprayed on there yesterday or the big compressor I used today but it came off. I think it had more to do with the way the impact gun works compared to the guns attached to me.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:20 AM   #22
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I think it had more to do with the way the impact gun works compared to the guns attached to me.
I can related to that.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:22 AM   #23
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I use antiseize on several parts of my TJ like the tie-rod end threads, wheel stud threads, t-case mounting bolt threads, etc. but I can't think of any part of the hub assembly where I'd reach for my can of white lithium grease.
Okay I don't have any so I will get some to have, I like to have a well stocked garage. Maybe he was talking about greasing the Ujoints with the lithium?
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:37 AM   #24
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Maybe he was talking about greasing the Ujoints with the lithium?
I hope not.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I haven't had factory unit bearing hubs in 10+ years but can't you just remove the bolts that that hold the unit bearing hub to the knuckle? And then pull it all out as one long assembly where you'll have access to the u-joint?

Though a good double anvil 1/2" impact wrench would make short work of that nut.
What tool and size take off these 3 bolts?



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Old 12-01-2012, 11:58 AM   #26
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Use a 12-pt 13mm to get those off. But before even trying to remove them, you need to use some form of penetrant on them like Break-Free, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB-Blaster. Spray it on several times over several hours to give it a chance to work its way into the threads so it can work on them. No, WD-40 is not a suitable substitute for any of those products... WD-40 simply does not work nearly well enough for that purpose.

Edit:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-2.htm

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unit...tbearing-1.htm
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:09 PM   #27
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Use a 12-pt 13mm to get those off. But before even trying to remove them, you need to use some form of penetrant on them like Break-Free, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB-Blaster. Spray it on several times over several hours to give it a chance to work its way into the threads so it can work on them. No, WD-40 is not a suitable substitute for any of those products... WD-40 simply does not work nearly well enough for that purpose.


Edit:

D-30 Axle Shaft Removal - 2

Unit Bearing - 1
I sprayed them right after the picture with PB and liquid wrench. Are you talking about a regular 12 point socket and doesn't a Jeep use the American sizes instead of a 13 mm? I'm heading to the mall so if there is another set that I need from Sears I can grab it before I try to take this off. I want to use the right tool for the job, within reason.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:09 PM   #28
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I'm cleaning and using never seize on everything as I go but I don't think I have that white lithium grease, I'm gonna have to put that on my list for today.
NOOO!! Do not use Never seize!!! We have a saying " If you want it to seize use never seize ".... Never Seize has metal particals in it... Like I said, you live in the northeast.. steel+aluminum particals " any metal partical"+ road salt= Bad words when working next time....
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:17 PM   #29
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I sprayed them right after the picture with PB and liquid wrench. Are you talking about a regular 12 point socket and doesn't a Jeep use the American sizes instead of a 13 mm? I'm heading to the mall so if there is another set that I need from Sears I can grab it before I try to take this off. I want to use the right tool for the job, within reason.
The 12-pt. 13mm socket I suggested is what you want. And to be sure, your TJ uses probably half metric and half SAE size fasteners. If you don't already own a set of metric tools, you might as well pick up a set of them in addition to the SAE size tools you probably already have.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:20 PM   #30
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The 12-pt. 13mm socket I suggested is what you want. And to be sure, your TJ uses probably half metric and half SAE size fasteners. If you don't already own a set of metric tools, you might as well pick up a set of them in addition to the SAE size tools you probably already have.

Okay learn something new everyday. I do have metric for the rice rockets I work on. Thanks much!

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