Only recommendations is to put all the head bolts and push rods back in the same place they came from.The best way to do so is get an empty box about the size of the head mark front and back to show front and rear of head then punch holes in the box to represent the head bolts and then holes to represent the push rods and number each hole for the bolts 1 thru 14 in the torque sequence.Also if your Jeep is 99 or above check the cast number of the head and if it is 0331 you will want to check the head real good for cracks between the 3 & 4 cylinder combustion chamber.If it is the 0630 you should be ok but either way I would send it off to be magnafluxed.
Depending on how much you weigh you might want to have a friend handy, that head weighs a tad more then a VW aluminum head, that puppy is cast IRON on the jeep. Depending on mileage it might be a good time to do some clean up on it as well as grinding the ports and such. If the head bolts are painted replace them, painted means someone had the head off once before and the bolts really should only be reused ONCE.
it's a 97 4 cyl. 5spd., 112k, she's leaking oil on the entire right side of the head, (side next to the manifold) nothing extreme but instead, consistant, i'm heading over to the shop soon to pick up the gasket. the bolts aren't painted, but here's another question, there's excess sealant coming from the side of the head which isn't leaking, its rubberized now and is red, any idea what sealant this is? silicone i think? i'm thinking about trying to do the same thing when i put in the new gasket. yea or nea?
so here's another one for anyone, i'm on a pretty tight budget, and was wondering if the pros would outweigh the cons of just replacing the gasket vs. buying the complete set of replacements including the gasket and valves for somewhere around $80.
forgot to ask, Richp, grinding the ports? could you explain that please? I'm not sure if i know what you mean.
Port grinding (valve grinding) is a refurbishment technique to clean the mating surfaces between the valves and the head. After time, carbon deposits form between the underside of the valves and the head and this can cause problems.
With the head off, you can unload the spring on each valve and disassemble the valve train to properly clean this area. It involves using some valve lapping compound and simple - cheap wooden tool that has a suction cup attached.
You basically apply the compound between the mating surfaces of the valve and the head. Fasten the suction cup of the tool to the valve and using your two hands, spin the valve against the head to polish the surfaces until you get a tight fit.
It's a very inexpensive and very effective way to restore the mechanical seal of the valve train. If you buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual it will have this information. You can save yourself a bunch of cash if you do it yourself and it's very easy to do.
scratch the 70lb that is for the 6cyl.I would say the 4 cyl is a bit lighter.Oh and you said a lot of silicone comeing from the head ????You also said oil leak from the head???Are you sure it is the head and not just the valve cover gasket????The head should not have silicone hanging out of it!!!
Ok yeah that makes a little more sense now!!! Yeah you don't have nearly the trouble that I thought you had Anyway the valve cover is a pretty easy task.Most new gaskets are going to be rubber and do not need the use of silicone/RTV sealant.
Be a bit careful here, have a shop vac with a crevice tool handy and a plastic scraper, once the cover is off IMMEDIATELY get the shop vac going and get all the pieces that fell off before they can get into the return passages. At that point depending on the sludge build up start using the vac and scraper together to clean out the valve train area. Once you have that nice and clean then clean the valve cover. If any pieces get down into the return passages they will end up in the oil pan where the pump will pull them up and block the screen on the pickup.