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Old 03-17-2013, 06:32 PM   #1
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Unhappy HELP!!! - Body lift broken bolt suggestions needed - tried heating already

Alright folks this is an all too familiar tale but while doing body lift today of the 11 freaking bolts 10 came out without problems but the last one broke off (so F***ING close). Attached are the pics of the broken bolt. It is the last bolt (#6) on the passenger side.

I have tried heating it up with a blow torch a couple of times but nothing has happened. Also when I try to unbolt it the whole base kinda moves inside the tub, which kind of scares me.

Could you guys please guide me here?

Should I go ahead and do the rest of the body lift?
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:34 PM   #2
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PB blaster and vise grips

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Old 03-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #3
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If you have access to kroil or aerokroil you'd be better off, but if not PB blaster and vice grips should help. Just give it time to do what its suppose to. Spray it and leave it for a while.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #4
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PB blaster done right away!

do you guys think I can still go ahead with the rest of the lift? would having one body mount bolt missing fuck up my ride?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:33 PM   #5
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ok guys so i have done the rest of the body lift but now i am running into a new problem, after doing both side i dont have enough clearance to insert puck in #1 body mount (the one upfront) what do i need to do or what am i doing wrong?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:59 PM   #6
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Pb blaster or some good lubricant, a lock nut, and a breaker bar. Easy enough
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:04 PM   #7
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Sorry I meant to say a jam nut
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:02 PM   #8
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@CountryBoyJeep - Thanks for the response. Jam nut is an excellent idea. Do you mean I have to weld it in place to get it to stick and then breaker bar it?

Guys, I still have not figured out the reason for not enough clearance on the body mount upfront near the radiator. Since I had the jeep on jack stands in the rear and on tires in the front I thought that the height difference is causing it. So I took it off the jack stands. Still not enough clearance.

What am I missing guys?

The only other thing that I can think of is that the JKS instruction say start the thread and dont tighten the other body mounts I am definitely beyond starting the thread. Could this be the reason?
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:50 PM   #9
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I'd say yes loosen the bolts on both sides of the tub see if it helps
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:07 PM   #10
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I second WVU Mountainman, loosen up the bolts and jack the body up from the front a little more to slide the puck in
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:38 PM   #11
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I would say weld a nut on and get a half inch impact on it they rarely fail to break things loose and the heat from welding should help to.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:10 AM   #12
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@WVUMountainman and @Rolly32 - I will try that tonight after work. What is a good place to jack up the body? I am thinking of jacking the passenger side in front of #2 body mount (the one under the door). I will hopefully have all the body mounts done and torqued to spec tonight.

For the broken one I dont have a welder so will need to take it to the shop to get it welded and potentially removed because I dont have impact wrench setup at home. Is it safe to drive with one missing body mount?
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #13
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@CountryBoyJeep - Thanks for the response. Jam nut is an excellent idea. Do you mean I have to weld it in place to get it to stick and then breaker bar it?

Guys, I still have not figured out the reason for not enough clearance on the body mount upfront near the radiator. Since I had the jeep on jack stands in the rear and on tires in the front I thought that the height difference is causing it. So I took it off the jack stands. Still not enough clearance.

What am I missing guys?

The only other thing that I can think of is that the JKS instruction say start the thread and dont tighten the other body mounts I am definitely beyond starting the thread. Could this be the reason?
The way you use jam nuts can vary. It's basically just a method to remove bolts with broken heads or screwing them out from the threads. If you have 2 jam nuts you put them both tight against each other on the threads. Since there are 2 one may be locked into place while you turn the other. If you have welding skills yes you can tac weld a nut on the bolt and then screw it out. If you weld it though remember which way the bolt is going. If you weld a nut on and the head is on the other side you're not going to get it off period.

As for your clearance question loosen all bolts and find a way to Jack up the front. Next body lift you do start in the front as the engine compartment contains the most weight.

Hope everything goes well!
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:22 PM   #14
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@WVUMountainman and @Rolly32 - I will try that tonight after work. What is a good place to jack up the body? I am thinking of jacking the passenger side in front of #2 body mount (the one under the door). I will hopefully have all the body mounts done and torqued to spec tonight.

For the broken one I dont have a welder so will need to take it to the shop to get it welded and potentially removed because I dont have impact wrench setup at home. Is it safe to drive with one missing body mount?
I would pick a side and loosen all the tub bolts on that side. Then jack that side up like you did to out in the other body lift pucks. This should provide sufficient lift to get the one in on the front. If not keep moving your lift point forward until it lifts enough.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:52 PM   #15
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I just finished my JKS BL and had the same issue. I loosened all passenger side bolts and it slid in.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:45 PM   #16
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Just be thankful you still have some threads showing! I sheared off one of the bolts that holds the rear shock on, and i ended up having to drill it out. Took about an 30 minutes.

As far as the body lift goes, I had the same issue, even though the instructions said to do that one last. I just used a rubber mallet to help knock that one in the gap. It was tight, but it went it without too much pressure.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:27 PM   #17
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Update 1 - Broken bolt resolved Thanks for all the ideas guys the broken bolt is out!! yay!! vise grip, pb blaster and heater the holy trio-logy helped to get it out. many thanks to my budy Dman who was persistent that we dont need to drill it.

Update 2 / New Problem - I was able to loosen all the body mounts and get the puck in on body mount #1 but now the hole for the body wont align. It is about 1/5 of an inch off.. just enough to not be able to tighten it. So how do I get it to align and what am I missing?
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:56 AM   #18
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With all bolts loose attach a ratchet strap on the front of the body in a solid place. Find something solid to connect the other end to (another vehicle, four wheeler, stud in garage with eye screw, etc.) Tighten strap until you can get the bolt tightened then remove strap tighten the rest of the body mount bolts.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:26 AM   #19
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@WVUMountainman - Thanks for the response. We did give pulling the body with ratchet straps a thought but we could not think of a solid foundation on body to tie the straps to. What is your take on the best place on the body to tie the straps? I am planning to tie the other end to my 4runner.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:49 AM   #20
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Look under the rear of the front fender flare. There is a heavy steel bracket tying body panels together. See picture. There is a hole in the back side and bottom you should be able to hook the strap into. This will give you a solid pulling point. Just go slow and make sure nothing bends before you get the bolt where it needs to be. With the other body mount bolts loose this should work fine. Let me know how it turns out.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:25 PM   #21
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First thing first - @WVUMountainman - Thanks buddy for all your help in getting this done

The key update is that the body lift is finally in. I tried loosening all the bolts and using ratchet straps to pull the front body mount into position but that did not help. The body mount hole was still off on to the driver side. Then I decided to take all the body mounts off from the mount #2, 3, and 4 on both the passenger and driver sides, after doing this the mount #1 aligned itself without issues. At this point I took the JKS body lift bolt and stuck it in there with just a part of the thread started without tightening it. I left all the slack in it. Then I started jacking up the driver side to re-insert the body pucks. As I started jacking it the hole started going out of alignment. Then I went to the passenger side and loosened all the body mounts to about 95%. I then used the ratchet straps to bring the hole in alignment. At this point I had the whole driver side in and the body mount #1 in. Then I started jacking up the passenger side I did this slowly and monitored the stress on body mount #1 and used the ratchet straps on the driver side to keep it aligned and 1 hour later all the body pucks are in.

The things that still remain are radiator stubs and the body mount bolts need to torqued to spec (currently they are tightened by hand). But I am pretty confident I can deal with both of the remaining items with relative ease.

Thanks once again for your inputs folks.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:53 AM   #22
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First thing first - @WVUMountainman - Thanks buddy for all your help in getting this done

The key update is that the body lift is finally in. I tried loosening all the bolts and using ratchet straps to pull the front body mount into position but that did not help. The body mount hole was still off on to the driver side. Then I decided to take all the body mounts off from the mount #2, 3, and 4 on both the passenger and driver sides, after doing this the mount #1 aligned itself without issues. At this point I took the JKS body lift bolt and stuck it in there with just a part of the thread started without tightening it. I left all the slack in it. Then I started jacking up the driver side to re-insert the body pucks. As I started jacking it the hole started going out of alignment. Then I went to the passenger side and loosened all the body mounts to about 95%. I then used the ratchet straps to bring the hole in alignment. At this point I had the whole driver side in and the body mount #1 in. Then I started jacking up the passenger side I did this slowly and monitored the stress on body mount #1 and used the ratchet straps on the driver side to keep it aligned and 1 hour later all the body pucks are in.

The things that still remain are radiator stubs and the body mount bolts need to torqued to spec (currently they are tightened by hand). But I am pretty confident I can deal with both of the remaining items with relative ease.

Thanks once again for your inputs folks.
Anytime. Glad you got them all in!
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #23
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Alright then on to the next problem. After the body lift was in I decided it was time to tackle the motor mounts (and as many said on the forum I did brown dog it with the ultra flex rubber mounts).

Now to problem part, as mentioned in the instructions we loosened the mounts on both sides from the bottom and decided to do the driver side first. We used the oil pan to jack up the engine and tried to remove the cross bolt but since my jeep has AC it did not come out right. So we decided to remove the whole metal part that the cross bolt slides into and take the mount out. With the mount out we re-tightened the metal part and slided in the the new mount, tried to jack the motor to align the mount and get the cross bolt through in this process we fucked up the side metal ring that covers the rubber. Also mind you during all this time the upper bolt on the passenger side mount was tight. After some finagling and removing the metal part that joins the mount to engine we finally got the driver side mount in and all things attached.

My questions/problems are:
1) What problems will the missing metal ring cause down the lane? I have highlighted the part in the attached pic.
2) The passenger side mount is too tight now and I almost cant move anything on that side. What am I doing wrong? (I have the driver side mount pretty tight I think that is part of the problem but it is late at night and I am phased and tired to think straight)
3) Should I have removed the passenger side mount top and bolt before doing the driver side? I mean loosen the one on bottom and remove the one on top.

Thanks in advance for your help guys.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:04 PM   #24
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Alright then on to the next problem. After the body lift was in I decided it was time to tackle the motor mounts (and as many said on the forum I did brown dog it with the ultra flex rubber mounts).

Now to problem part, as mentioned in the instructions we loosened the mounts on both sides from the bottom and decided to do the driver side first. We used the oil pan to jack up the engine and tried to remove the cross bolt but since my jeep has AC it did not come out right. So we decided to remove the whole metal part that the cross bolt slides into and take the mount out. With the mount out we re-tightened the metal part and slided in the the new mount, tried to jack the motor to align the mount and get the cross bolt through in this process we fucked up the side metal ring that covers the rubber. Also mind you during all this time the upper bolt on the passenger side mount was tight. After some finagling and removing the metal part that joins the mount to engine we finally got the driver side mount in and all things attached.

My questions/problems are:
1) What problems will the missing metal ring cause down the lane? I have highlighted the part in the attached pic.
2) The passenger side mount is too tight now and I almost cant move anything on that side. What am I doing wrong? (I have the driver side mount pretty tight I think that is part of the problem but it is late at night and I am phased and tired to think straight)
3) Should I have removed the passenger side mount top and bolt before doing the driver side? I mean loosen the one on bottom and remove the one on top.

Thanks in advance for your help guys.
Call brown dog they have 24/7 customer service line. They told me if your installing at 3:00am and have problems,call us. When I ordered mine they said they have a few tricks if things get tough.

I should be getting mine in the mail next week, but if I remember correctly, you are supposed to loosen, not remove all bolts. Once loosened pick a side and replace. Keep new mount loose an complete the other side. Tighten everything. Be sure not to tighten the cross bolt too tight on the new mounts, brown dog recommends tightening until the washer that went missing just won't move then back the nut off a 1/4 turn. This reduces excess vibrations.

Others have had success with doing both sides at once, but for safety I will attempt one side at a time.

Keep at it you will get it figured out, but I highly recommend calling brown dog regarding the missing washer
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:59 PM   #25
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@WVUMountainman - buddy thanks once again for the advice.

Well gentlemen (and ladies) the update is that the motor mounts are in... Yay!!!

I was not doing anything wrong per se I would say it was just the inexperience of not having done motor mounts before and (I cannot stress the next point enough) read the S**T out of the install instructions. Some wise man on this forum has said somewhere that before you set out on doing the install WRITE down the instructions/steps on a piece of paper. I read and re-read the instructions multiple times but I still felt that we did not follow them to the dot (which would have helped a lot).

Also once the driver side was fixed and mounted, the passenger side went a lot more easier and faster. We did face some issues to align the top bolt on the passenger side but nothing that a little persuasion and a little jacking up and down of the motor could not help.

So now 2/3 of the installs are done. Body lift and MML done. Now to the suspension lift. Lets see how that works out. I feel that even though I started this thread to ask for help on the broken bolt, is quickly turning into a build thread may be that is how it will be. I will try to keep it updated as much as I can.

Last but not the least big shout out to Tim from brown dog motor mounts, awesome guy and great person. He was more than patient and took as much time as needed to talk to me and clarify all the steps.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:36 PM   #26
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Alright folks, I have good news and bad (worse?) news.

Good news is that both the rear side shocks are off and out. The bad news is that all the 4 bolts are broken . I had PB blasted them before hand but I guess not enough. The broke like twigs the moment I tried to open them.

I did research on the topic and it seems like chiseling the top nut is the way to go. From what I read it seems like there is just a tack weld that is holding on to it. I already have the body lift in so there is space to get a chisel in there.

With the broken body mount bolt out I am not that anxious with these broken ones. Even though these are in a tough spot and broken off in worse spots I am positive that we will be able to get these out.

What do you guys think? Should I go the chisel route or should I try and drill them out?
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:32 PM   #27
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@WVUMountainman - buddy thanks once again for the advice.

Well gentlemen (and ladies) the update is that the motor mounts are in... Yay!!!

I was not doing anything wrong per se I would say it was just the inexperience of not having done motor mounts before and (I cannot stress the next point enough) read the S**T out of the install instructions. Some wise man on this forum has said somewhere that before you set out on doing the install WRITE down the instructions/steps on a piece of paper. I read and re-read the instructions multiple times but I still felt that we did not follow them to the dot (which would have helped a lot).

Also once the driver side was fixed and mounted, the passenger side went a lot more easier and faster. We did face some issues to align the top bolt on the passenger side but nothing that a little persuasion and a little jacking up and down of the motor could not help.

So now 2/3 of the installs are done. Body lift and MML done. Now to the suspension lift. Lets see how that works out. I feel that even though I started this thread to ask for help on the broken bolt, is quickly turning into a build thread may be that is how it will be. I will try to keep it updated as much as I can.

Last but not the least big shout out to Tim from brown dog motor mounts, awesome guy and great person. He was more than patient and took as much time as needed to talk to me and clarify all the steps.
Thanks much for your kind words!!

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