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Old 07-07-2013, 03:44 PM   #1
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Help Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement Issues

So I got the old slave cylinder off and purchased the new one to replace it. The new one does not come with a bleeder screw and the one in my old one is done for and unable to come out much less be used again. I can't fine any bleeder screws at the auto parts store or online. What are my options? I see instructionns for bleeding without using the screw but will that still work if u don't have the screw? What are my other options????

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Old 07-07-2013, 04:32 PM   #2
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The new one is ready to go out of the box no bleeding required. I had the same issue and found it wasn't my slave cylinder that was bad it was my clutch

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Old 07-07-2013, 04:35 PM   #3
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:54 PM   #4
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I saw those instructions earlier. Will that still work with no screw in the bleeder screw area? Also when they say pour brake fluid in the hydrolic port can you tell me or show a pic of where that is on the slave cylinder? I am confused by that part
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:40 AM   #5
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does anyone know where the "hydrolic port" is on the slave cylinder? is it the area under the rubber boot or what? does anyone know if these instruction will work even if you don't have a bleeder screw in the bleeder screw hole??? any help would be great need to get this thing back up and going

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Old 07-08-2013, 07:49 AM   #6
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here is a picture of one similar to the one i bought ... ok looking at this again i assume the hydrolic port is on the opposite end of the push rod area??? very bottom of the picture where the hose from the mater goes in is that right? sometimes i am not the sharpest tack....
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:27 AM   #7
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Matt the one I bought from the stealership had the lines and the master cylinder all attached and already filled with fluid. I looked at one like you have but could not find a way to make it work.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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With the slave cylinder still tipped up, insert the clutch hydraulic tube in the slave cylinder hydraulic output port (replace the small rubber seal on the need of the metal tube connector and lubricate with clutch fluid), insert retaining pin and drive in with drive punch.

The port is where the tube goes into the slave cylinder
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #9
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thanks... i read those instruction again and the bulb finally went off in my head lol... so even without the bleeder screw in there you think this will work? fluid won't start coming out of where the bleeder screw is suppose to be (again sorry for my ignorance if that is a stupid question).

and thanks for all the help i am going to be trying this tonight. i hope it is the slave and not time for a new clutch.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:52 AM   #10
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It's worth a try. There should not be a plug or screw on the nipple on the slave. Mine was solid.

I couldn't get my old one apart without destroying it so I had to buy the whole set up. Make sure it all comes apart before you fill the new one with fluid
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:54 AM   #11
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Have you checked to make sure the slave is bad? Hold the slave against the frame and have someone push the clutch pedal. If you cannot hold if firm against the frame time to look at a clutch.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:05 AM   #12
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no i haven't tried that yet. i just talked to a local jeep service dept and they said that if the bleeder screw isn't in there it won't build pressure that fluid will just come out. he suggested i try to find any bleeder screw even a brake one or something that ic ould get. any that would fit the threads would work it doesn't have to be exactly like the one that was in there. going to check on that.

i am concerned it is the clutch and not the slave but if it is the clutch that is probably more than i can handle so i figured i would try this. Here is what happened from a previous post i made:
Here is my situation. I have a 99 Saharah manual trans. 4.0. I haven't had any issues with the clutch (many other problems but not the cluth haha). I have a short drive and barely put any miles on the jeep. I drove the jeep to work and back home the friday before last (approx 6 miles round trip) and then parked the jeep for a week as we left town for vacation. When i returned on Monday i tried to start the vehicle and it seemed as though the battery was low as it cranked slow but it also tried to walk forward like i was tryin to start it while in gear eventhough i had the clutch in. Last night when i finally had time to mess with it i cleaned up the battery terminals and cables (i have to do thsi often they get gunked up) and it started right up like i expected it to. As noted this has happened before so i expected to hop in and take it for a quick drive. When i try to put it in reverse it grinds and when i try any other gear it won't even go in. so after a few of these i check the master cylinder and it was full of fluid like it was suppose to be. then with the key in the off position i pushed down the clutch and took the jeep out of neutral and put it in first and tried to push the vehicle to see if it would move and it didn't it was obviously in gear. This whole thing has me so confused as it was fine before I left and hasn't moved in a week so i don't know how anything could break by sitting there.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #13
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From your earlier post -


"Once you remove the slave cylinder, with the e-brake on, you should be able to take a large screwdriver or bar and manually disengage the clutch by pushing against the throw out bearing arm (the part the slave cylinder pushes against), If it goes in really easy, or won't go in at all, then you have a clutch issue. If it goes in with some good pressure on it, then change out the slave cylinder. "

Did you ever try this?
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #14
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how hard do u have to push to move it? mine wiggle back and forth a bit just by moving it with my hand but not a lot. is this normal or should it not move at all?
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:40 PM   #15
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Wiggling a little up and down and side to side is normal, but with some pretty good force you should be able to shove it straight forward (just like the slave piston does). And when you do, it should disengage the transmission (if the rear end is off the ground, you should be abole to turn the driveshaft while in gear) as long as you keep it shoved forward.
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:49 PM   #16
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ok i will have to try to give it some force tonight. it is just a little bit of wiggling. i tried to push a little bit on it the other night but not to hard as i didn't know how much force to put on it.. last think i wanted to do was break what isn't broken (hopefully). having a hell of a time finiding this bleeder screw. just ordered what i think is a filled and pre bled unit. i mean a 3 dollar screw is causeing me to tried junk yards, tried auto parts stores, tried chrysler.... what a pain this is. going to look to see if i can find someone on here parting out a jeep that might send me one
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:53 PM   #17
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I had a bleeder screw on the dorman clutch slave I installed. I bled that thing for an hr and a half and nothing! This is the only way to get the air out of the system so pay attention to what I did....Remove cap from master cylinder (put a rag loosely over top to prevent spray when pumping), remove clutch slave from clutch housing. Do not remove the hydralic line from the clutch slave. with that "pushrod" pointing down towards the ground, start manually pumping it (slowly) about 20 times. Check the master fluid reserevoir and refill if low. You will be lying underneath your jeep so if you have someone to watch the master reservoir great. Do this cycle maybe 3-5 times and then reinstall slave to housing. Check your clutch pedal now. Is it firm? If not repeat process. I did this for maybe 20 min and was fine after that. The bleed screw is useless and you will be pumping your pedal till your leg tires out!

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