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Old 07-27-2013, 11:16 PM   #1
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Help little bump steer

Hey guys I installed the currie hd drag link and I've been getting a little bump steer and lots of play in the steering wheel. Always had bump steer since the lift but not as much when I installed the Currie


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Old 07-27-2013, 11:49 PM   #2
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Where's the steering dampener? Looks like all Currie stuff so as long as you don't have a drop on your frameside trackbar, the angles should be good to go.

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Old 07-28-2013, 12:04 AM   #3
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Where's the steering dampener? Looks like all Currie stuff so as long as you don't have a drop on your frameside trackbar, the angles should be good to go.
It has a re adjustable track bar with a 7.5 long arm kit and no steering damper it riped off the mounting bracket got t ok weld a new one.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:10 AM   #4
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Putting a steering stabilizer on it will just mask the problem and won't solve it. Your track bar and draglink don't look to be properly lined up right. I'm no expert on it but I know they are suppose to be parallel to each other or somewhat even with each other.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:49 AM   #5
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Putting a steering stabilizer on it will just mask the problem and won't solve it. Your track bar and draglink don't look to be properly lined up right. I'm no expert on it but I know they are suppose to be parallel to each other or somewhat even with each other.
x2 on this. Also, is that the stock pitman arm?
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:54 AM   #6
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x2 on this. Also, is that the stock pitman arm?
That's the other thing I saw but forgot to mention. That pitman arm doesn't look stock and looks like a DPA. It also looks like you are not running a stock track bar mount setup. Is it a double shear mount?
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:21 AM   #7
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That's the other thing I saw but forgot to mention. That pitman arm doesn't look stock and looks like a DPA. It also looks like you are not running a stock track bar mount setup. Is it a double shear mount?
It has a double shear mount. You think a bigger drop for the pitman is required or a stock one? Or something with the track bar?
I'll get better pics later on.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:32 AM   #8
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Or maybe the trackbar is bolted to the wrong side flip it around maybe.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:17 AM   #9
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The drag link and track bar should run parallel. Need to replace the drop pa with a stocker. I had the same problem a year ago.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:27 AM   #10
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the drag link and track bar should run parallel. Need to replace the drop pa with a stocker. I had the same problem a year ago.
^^^^x2^^^^
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:35 AM   #11
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The Currie steering kit did not add to or change any characteristic that has anything to do with bump steer. Currie's steering kit uses the exact same geometry the factory steering system does so your bump steer has nothing to do with the new Currie system.

What IS causing your bump steer is your steeply dropped Pitman arm. I don't see a dropped driver's side mounting bracket for the track bar which is the only thing that could make the use of the dropped Pitman arm correct.

If your driver's side track bar mount is stock & undropped, replace that dropped Pitman arm with your original Pitman arm and your bump steer will be cured.

Install a steering stabilizer too. A steering stabilizer (more correctly known as a damper) helps to protect the steering & front end from the normal shocks & jolts of driving like when you run over a bump or a dip on the road surface.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #12
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The Currie steering kit did not add to or change any characteristic that has anything to do with bump steer. Currie's steering kit uses the exact same geometry the factory steering system does so your bump steer has nothing to do with the new Currie system.

What IS causing your bump steer is your steeply dropped Pitman arm. I don't see a dropped driver's side mounting bracket for the track bar which is the only thing that could make the use of the dropped Pitman arm correct.

If your driver's side track bar mount is stock & undropped, replace that dropped Pitman arm with your original Pitman arm and your bump steer will be cured.

Install a steering stabilizer too. A steering stabilizer (more correctly known as a damper) helps to protect the steering & front end from the normal shocks & jolts of driving like when you run over a bump or a dip on the road surface.

I think it does have a drop bracket but I know its a double shear. I was thinking about changing the pitman arm to stock but the jeeps so high.
Ill get better pics in a little.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:16 PM   #13
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Suspension height has nothing to do with whether you need a dropped Pitman arm, it's only the steering geometry that dictates the need for it. My previous TJ had a Rubicon Express suspension lift with a lift that was right at 5.5" and it steered best without a dropped Pitman arm after I removed its dropped Pitman arm. And whether the driver's side track bar mount is single or double-shear has nothing to do with it either, the only thing that matters is if it is factory height or dropped.

To prevent bump steer, the track bar & Pitman arm must match... both must be either undropped, or dropped the same amount.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #14
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Suspension height has nothing to do with whether you need a dropped Pitman arm, it's only the steering geometry that dictates the need for it. My previous TJ had a Rubicon Express suspension lift with a lift that was right at 5.5" and it steered best without a dropped Pitman arm after I removed its dropped Pitman arm. And whether the driver's side track bar mount is single or double-shear has nothing to do with it either, the only thing that matters is if it is factory height or dropped.

To prevent bump steer, the track bar & Pitman arm must match... both must be either undropped, or dropped the same amount.
Thanks I'm understanding now, I'm new to this stuff eager to learn tho. I'm not 100% sure if it has a drop bracket but i'm gonna take better pics for you to see if it is.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #15
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Better pictures of the track bar mount



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Old 07-28-2013, 08:33 PM   #16
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If you are unsure if they are parallel then measure . Park it on a flat surface like a garage floor and on the passenger side measure from floor the center of the bolt attaching the track bar . Do the same to the TRE on the same side . Measure to approx. part where the ball ( or call it the pivot point ) is located inside the TRE not the mount or the stud . When you switched to Currie steering the TRE pivot point became slightly lower as mine did being Currie has a larger ball than the OE TRE . Measure the draglink end at the pitman arm the same way from the pivot point of the drag link end to the floor and then the center of the bolt attaching your track bar to the floor. With all of the numbers you can now tell what you have presently and figure out what is needed in order to make the two components parallel as possible . If it is perfect you should have matching pairs of measurements. I had to bend my pitman arm lower to get it as close as possible . 11/16" made all the difference in the world on mine . I had no drop components installed and still ended up with bumpsteer initially, not any more.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #17
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Here's a good illustration of the two imaginary lines that need to be parallel. One line (red) between the two mounting points of the track bar, and the other line (yellow) between the two mounting points of the drag link.

Those lines are between the mounting points of the track bar and drag link, pay no attention to the angles of the track bar or drag link themselves... the track bar has bends in it that make it impossible to know its operating plane.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:50 PM   #18
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Here's a good illustration of the two imaginary lines that need to be parallel. One line (red) between the two mounting points of the track bar, and the other line (yellow) between the two mounting points of the drag link.

Those lines are between the mounting points of the track bar and drag link, pay no attention to the angles of the track bar or drag link themselves... the track bar has bends in it that make it impossible to know its operating plane.
The mounting points are not an accurate place to check for parallel . Go by the center of the actual point where the actual component pivots . It does make a difference
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #19
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I consider where they pivot from to be their mounting points.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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Glad you do . The important part is the OP understands that too. I personally would not be looking at the exact same location if some one said " the mounting point ". Which is why I refered to it as the actual pivot point so their is no mistake in case they happen to think of a mounting point as I do
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:25 PM   #21
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Thanks guys for the help. I'm gonna go do the measures and see what I come with I decided to also order a stock Pitman seeing maybe that is the culprit.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:28 PM   #22
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I'd bet big $$$ just reinstalling the OE Pitman arm will fix the bump steer. I'm so sure that I wouldn't even bother tying strings to the pivot points to see how parallel they are.

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