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Old 07-20-2010, 11:38 AM   #1
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Wink Help with my brakes!

So, I decided that I want to fix my brakes...now what? I have the service repair manual, and I get the basic gist of it, but is there anyone who has changed their brakes out that has some advice? I don't know what I should use to clean the rotors, the manual says carburetor cleaner, but I've read that carburetor cleaner is oily and therefore not good to use on brakes, and I don't know if I should bleed the brake fluid or what...I don't want to start until I have a better idea of what i'm doing...nothing like having to make multiple trips to the autozone to get various things that I find out that I need while I'm trying to do the repair!

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Old 07-20-2010, 12:05 PM   #2
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Front Brakes Overhaul - 1

I think this may help you tremendously. There are a couple pages to view on the write up so when you get to the bottom, make sure you click the next page.
Also, you will want to see the home page. There are tons of write up's on doin things yourself.

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Old 07-20-2010, 12:56 PM   #3
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Carb cleaner is actually very good for cleaning the rotors as it leaves no oil behind to contaminate the new pads with. It is brake cleaner, yes, that leaves a thin oily residue behind. Learning that years ago suprised me too.

I would not bleed the brakes unless it is also time to change the brake fluid. Swapping new brake pads and rotors can be done without bleeding the brake lines.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:10 PM   #4
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Continuation on Jerry's post....

However, its very likely overdue for new brake fluid as well. (most of us are in the same boat whether we will admit it or not.)

Carb Cleaner or brake cleaner will be fine on the brakes. any residue will burn off the first time you use the brakes.

Some will advise against just pushing the piston into the caliper without breaking the bleed screw loose. But for 99% of applications this is "okay". See above and below about brake fluid. It should be changed out just like every other fluid in your Jeep.

Don't ever use a can of Brake fluid that's been sitting on the shelf (once opened this is especially true) Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and moisture lowers the boiling point. lowering the boiling point makes it more likely that you will boil the fluid...causing all sorts of hell.

Buy a decent set of pads and you'll thank yourself later.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:11 PM   #5
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One word of advice. If you are going to do it yourself, make sure the vehicle has not been driven recently because those disc get VERY hot! Park it where you are going to change the pads and leave it there for some time, like overnight.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:16 PM   #6
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You'll be fine changing them anytime, no need to let sit overnight.
If they are that hot, then it sounds like a caliper was locked or seized.

I've done mine after driving to the store for parts, so it's no issue.

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Old 07-20-2010, 01:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTaylor View Post
One word of advice. If you are going to do it yourself, make sure the vehicle has not been driven recently because those disc get VERY hot! Park it where you are going to change the pads and leave it there for some time, like overnight.
a couple hours will be fine. Unless you're "sensitive"
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:55 PM   #8
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ok, ok, you got me.... I'm sensitive and I don't want to mess up my nails.

Only reason I say overnight is because I generally don't start many projects too late. I hate messing around in the dark. If something needs to be done, I generally park my vehicle and do it first thing in the morning before it get's too hot and it gives me ample time in case things don't go as smoothly as I thought.


Also, I can admire my nails in the morning sun!


snwchris, I disagree, if they are cool to the touch after driving then your brakes arnt working. All brakes I've worked on are very hot after driving.
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:07 PM   #9
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I never said cool to the touch... I stated that it's not an issue to work on them after getting back from the parts store. To each their own on what they consider hot or VERY HOT!!! By the time you set-up your tools and get the jack out and get the tire off they should be fine to work on.

After years of wrenching and knuckle busting I typically use gloves.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:23 PM   #10
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LOL Thanks for the humor and the advice guys. Can't wait to switch out the brakes and rotors.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:28 PM   #11
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Just make darned (!) sure not to overtighten the two small bolts that hold the calipers to the assembly. They only thread into aluminum so don't even think about overtightening them. The official torque spec says 13 ft-lbs for those two particular bolts. If you don't have a 3/8" torque wrench, just use nothing larger than a 3/8" ratchet wrench or a standard combination open-end/box-end wrench to tighten them and you should be ok.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:39 PM   #12
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+1 to that...three finger rule...don't pull on the wrench with a full fist...use three open fingers (or a torque wrench).

Most people have no idea how much 13ft. lbs really is. so if you own a torque wrench I suggest using one (for this and every other thing you can find torque specs for). why? well it will get you to the proper torque (w/o going over). and you'll soon learn what 13, 30, 60, 100ft lbs feels like. (not that I suggest you stop using the torque wrench)

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