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Old 07-24-2010, 03:12 PM   #1
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Exclamation help with rear drive shaft removal

Hi all,
I'm changing (or trying to) the pinion seal in the rear axel (D35) because of a leak, and I've already hit a roadblock. Is there a trick to separating the drive shaft from the yoke, once the bolts and straps are removed? I can't seem to pry it out. I have the jeep lifted, with jack stands under the frame on both the left and right sides, so the axel is hanging. This is my first time doing this, and I'm just not sure how much muscle I should be putting behing the prying.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 07-24-2010, 03:21 PM   #2
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should not be to bad to remove.. try a rubber hammer/mallet.

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Old 07-24-2010, 03:23 PM   #3
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First, thanks for the response. One more question though....how exactly should I be striking the drive shaft? The yoke has lips on both sides of it that prevent the drive shaft from simply sliding in either direction.
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:27 PM   #4
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If the axle is hanging so far that the driveshaft is fully compressed, you won't get the u-joint out of the yoke. Try jacking the axle up to get the pressure off the driveshaft if it's hanging down real low.
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:23 PM   #5
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Thanks Jerry, got it!

A few more questions regarding this project, if you all don't mind.

Got the flange nut off (using my foot to push the socket wrench!), and now I'm stuck getting the pinion seal out. I've pulled out a lot of rubber so far, but can't get the actual ring out. It's sort of sitting at an angle, but still completely in the hole. Any suggestions?

Also, how much play should there be on the pinion itself? There's quite a bit to mine.

Finally, There seems to be another ring behind the pinion seal, which I'm assuming is the bearing. This is moving forwards and backwards as I'm working, and I'm just wondering if this is normal.

Thanks again everybody!
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:45 PM   #6
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Once the pinion nut is off, there will be a lot of play in the pinion shaft. For getting the pinion seal out, I attack it with a sharp screwdriver or small chisel, needle nose pliers and vise grips. I literally pull it apart, peeling it apart like an orange. Just be careful not to scratch the surface of the pinion shaft opening area that the seal seats against.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:01 PM   #7
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Haaahahhahaa, so there DOES need to be an "attack" method. I thought it was just me. Unfortunately, I'm running out of daylight, and will need to continue tomorrow. Applying the techniques you've already mentioned, I've managed to get about 1/8 of it dismantled. I finally gave up and finished installing my fog lights. I had to feel like I accomplished something!

Thanks again for your help Jerry, and if I'm ever in the Mexico area, I'll keep an eye out for your Jeep.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Once the pinion nut is off, there will be a lot of play in the pinion shaft. For getting the pinion seal out, I attack it with a sharp screwdriver or small chisel, needle nose pliers and vise grips. I literally pull it apart, peeling it apart like an orange. Just be careful not to scratch the surface of the pinion shaft opening area that the seal seats against.
jerry i got a few quick questions for you. i had a leak from my front diff, and i thought it was the seal that went bad. i took it to a local shop to have them break the nut for me(i tried for two days and couldnt get it to budge). once the guy breaks the nut he says he notices a lot of play in the yoke, says he thinks i might have had the pinion bearing go out. i never noticed any play when it was tightened down but could see it once he loosened it. $620 later the pinion bearing and seal have been replaced. i asked to see the broken parts and of course they cant find them. do you think i got royally f*%ked in the a$$ here? i would hate to think they screwed me over since the owner is a fellow jeeper. if the pinion nut was loose should there have been any play in the pinion?
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:12 AM   #9
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I'm curious to know too. Even before I dismantled everything, there was definitely play in the rear shaft near the yoke, but none near the differential. The amount of play seems pretty excessive. I can move the rear shaft probably about a half inch, full circle. I can also twist it about a quarter of an inch in both directions. There's zero play in the front shaft, which made me think there's something wrong with the rear.

I guess my question is, should there be ANY play, in any direction, in the rear shaft?

Thanks again.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:18 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Tuff_Mudd View Post
I'm curious to know too. Even before I dismantled everything, there was definitely play in the rear shaft near the yoke, but none near the differential. The amount of play seems pretty excessive. I can move the rear shaft probably about a half inch, full circle. I can also twist it about a quarter of an inch in both directions. There's zero play in the front shaft, which made me think there's something wrong with the rear.

I guess my question is, should there be ANY play, in any direction, in the rear shaft?

Thanks again.
you should be able to put your hand on the drive shaft and twist it a little bit. as fof it moving up, down, left, right it shouldnt be doing that. when you had it on the jack stands did you have the parking break disengaged and in neutral? if you did that could explain why you could twist it more then usual
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:23 PM   #11
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With the pinion nut loose or off, there definitely can be lots of play with the pinion shaft. With the pinion nut tightened down to spec, the only play you should feel at the yoke is rotational which is from the backlash (slop) between the ring & pinion gears.
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #12
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Sorry to rehash an old subject...

I'm buying a TJ Saturday, and the owner just had the (?) 75k mile tuneup completed at a Jeep Dealership. The mech said the rear axel (I'm assuming) pinion seal is leaking. How much would this cost to repair at a mechanic? I don't have the gear/garage to do it myself.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:04 PM   #13
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all it took me was a socket set, a rubber mallet, and a screwdriver to do mine. the seal itself cost about 11 dollars and it took me 40 mins or so from start to finish. not sure what a mechanic will charge but its a super easy job!
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:00 AM   #14
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Cory,


Thanks, I'll find out tomorrow what exactly the dealership said needs to be replaced. The owner said the seal leaked but they were trying to talk him into changing everything out.

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