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Old 11-16-2012, 03:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BulldawgJeepin
Has anyone replaced all of their torx screws yet? I'm considering doing it but can't decide between replacing them with pan head allen screws or go back with tapered ones to fit flush in the countersunk holes like the original torx do...
I did on my cj7 project, they make stainless full replacement kits that include most bolts, mine was $170 ish.

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Old 11-16-2012, 03:28 PM   #32
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Just don't use SS hardware where strength is required like on control arms, skidplates, steering, etc. SS tops out at something like Grade 2.

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Old 11-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Just don't use SS hardware where strength is required like on control arms, skidplates, steering, etc. SS tops out at something like Grade 2.
Those all use hex head, stainless does not hold up to tightening in clogged threads so plan on cleaning out nasty threads or snapping and bending bolts. Ask me how I know. If I were to do over I would probably go with grade 5 or 8 throughout and painting them.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:25 PM   #34
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Yeah I've (slowly) began to replace ALL of the torx bolts including suspension components and upgrading to grade 8. Overkill in some areas? Yes, but I don't mind throwing a little extra coin down for peace of mind. I'm wanting to get rid of the torx on the body (windshield brackets, tailgate/door hinges...). I always wind up scratching my paint or stripping a torx socket...or both. PITA!
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BulldawgJeepin
Yeah I've (slowly) began to replace ALL of the torx bolts including suspension components and upgrading to grade 8. Overkill in some areas? Yes, but I don't mind throwing a little extra coin down for peace of mind. I'm wanting to get rid of the torx on the body (windshield brackets, tailgate/door hinges...). I always wind up scratching my paint or stripping a torx socket...or both. PITA!
Where are torx bits in suspension. My 06 has 0 was this something found in older tj's. I have some in the track bar. That's it. Also, you can match up the threads at a local ace hardware and swap the windshield stuff out with hex stuff.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:52 PM   #36
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It also helps if you put the torx socket into the bolt and give it a nice tap with a hammer to get it seated tightly. Then keep pressure into the bolt as you turn the driver with the other hand. This is if you don't have an impact as mentioned.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:29 AM   #37
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The head of one is damaged so i can no longer remove. How can I remove it?
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:20 AM   #38
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Well bolt extractors rarely work. You could drill it out. Or weld to it and turn it out. Last time I had to do this I believe I cut the head off the bolt then removed the pieces.
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:36 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues

Where are torx bits in suspension. My 06 has 0 was this something found in older tj's. I have some in the track bar. That's it. Also, you can match up the threads at a local ace hardware and swap the windshield stuff out with hex stuff.
I think the shock eyes and sway bar end links are the only ones I have in my suspension components.
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:52 AM   #40
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Someone could make a killing selling a bolt kit that replaces the torx bolts.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:49 AM   #41
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Ok so for the 3 weeks ive had my jeep I have had trouble with every single F*#&^)G torx screw. I ordered KC Hilights with the windshield brackets. As i went to unscrew the torx screws to install the bracket I felt as if the screws were welded on. I also had this same problem with a torx screw on the bumper. I had no choice but to epoxy the bracket on to the windshield. I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem as me and if so has any words of advice.
buy a impact wrench.......only drill if you have too 7 bucks at harbor freight.....best tool you'll ever own
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:45 PM   #42
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Drill and replace
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:03 AM   #43
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buy a impact wrench.......only drill if you have too 7 bucks at harbor freight.....best tool you'll ever own
The Harbor Freight impact driver I bought lasted all of 3 whacks with a BFH, then the internal drive crapped out. I now have a Craftsman and a MAC driver, both of which have never given me a problem. The HF lifetime warranty on some hand tools doesn't do you much good if you have to go back every 15min. to get a replacement!

But I will say that I've had good success with their 6 point impact sockets. They fit well, and I have yet to break one. And I did pick up a 3/4" drive torque wrench from there. (mainly due to the steep price MAC wanted) I've checked it against my brother's 3/4" drive MAC and it's pretty much right on.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:52 PM   #44
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chaulk me into this i am sick of these things i have snap lots of torx sockets on these damn things. and countless drill bits.
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:01 PM   #45
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We have to use the impact at work to get them out. Not the impact drill, but the one you hold in your hand a knock the $h!t out of with a hammer. It's the only thing I've found that'll work, but its scary as hell to watch the windshield flex everytime you hit the impact. Haven't had one break...yet...
X2...The old impact driver works best, even better than a Johnson bar sometimes.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:43 PM   #46
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beep beep beep. 5 snapon torx bits and 12 matco drill bit on 3. still have four more to go. beep beep sh$t
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:46 PM   #47
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impact driver, or breaker bar. and a can or two of "FREE-ALL"
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:04 PM   #48
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I just striped one of my windshield bracket torx head trying to install windshield light mount bracket. What is the best way to get the sob out?
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:28 PM   #49
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The easiest surest way is by tack welding a bolt or nut onto its head. The heat will loosen the Locktite on the threads which is why you couldn't get it out, and the bolt or nut will give you a place to put a wrench on to unscrew it while the bolt is still sizzling hot from being welded on.

Those bolts are held in with Locktite and more people have stripped them out thinking an impact wrench or regular wrench could get them out. It takes heat on the bolt to loosen the Locktite's grip.

When the bolt is hot enough, it will easily unscrew.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:30 PM   #50
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Every shop I have been to seams to think they will damage the paint or windsheild striping
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:44 PM   #51
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Every shop I have been to seams to think they will damage the paint or windsheild striping
The only thing those damn things damage is your ego! stupid effin screws!

They come out with a lot of TLC in the form if razor blade, penetrating oil and a breaker bar, or as previous posted by Jerry. I personally have never heard of damage to paint or anything.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:55 PM   #52
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The only thing those damn things damage is your ego! stupid effin screws! They come out with a lot of TLC in the form if razor blade, penetrating oil and a breaker bar, or as previous posted by Jerry. I personally have never heard of damage to paint or anything.
I say use a blowtorch all the time and people start flipping out about paint. So I drop it and let them snap it off.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:49 PM   #53
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I'm sitting here in utter shock.. Now I know why those brackets are so cheap because those torx screws don't budge... I would love to get my hands on the engineer/designer who came up with this FN bolt.. I am about to go out and put my hand held bench torch to the bolt I need loose and see if I can get it to cook the thread lock out...Un real..
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:26 PM   #54
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I'm sitting here in utter shock.. Now I know why those brackets are so cheap because those torx screws don't budge... I would love to get my hands on the engineer/designer who came up with this FN bolt.. I am about to go out and put my hand held bench torch to the bolt I need loose and see if I can get it to cook the thread lock out...Un real..

Here is the method I use:
1st I grab my soldering iron and heat up the screw by inserting the tip into the torx slot. I don't know if this really helps much, but I figure it might help soften up the locktite.
then I use an impact screw driver and hammer to try to turn the screw out. if it doesn't want to turn, then I break out the center punch and hammer and force the screw to spin by hitting with the center punch on the flat face of the screw at slight angle forcing it counter clockwise. I have never met one of those screw that won't come out with this last methods and you don't have to torch your paint to get it out.

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