I have a 1998 tj with a 2.5
Non AC
I have to problems
The one I've been working on is, my blower motor with not run
New blower motor new resistor new speed switch new control unit, both fuses good, wiring not melted, nothing
So today I moved my jeep, shut it off then wanted to move it a little more and now it will not start, turn the key and all dash lights come on but won't turn starter, battery is fine, turn key to start it the brake light flashes on off
Please help I'm to the point I hate this jeep
Can't drive it due to heater not working now can't even move it
There is a switch on the clutch pedal that only allows the car to start if the clutch is in. If that is not making contact or has moved...it will cause the problem.
Check fuse 8 in the fuse block behind the glove box with a meter. If good, check for 12v power TO the fuse when the key is on. If good, see if you are getting power to the dark green wire at the speed switch connector. If yes, unplug it & jump from that dark green wire to each of the other 4 wires to see if you get the various speeds. If not, see if you have a good ground & power to the blower motor connector & a good connection from the connector to the motor.
For the no start, no crank.
Put a fuse in the 20 slot in the fuse block to bypass the clutch switch & try to start it.
If not, here are2 other things to try, 1st pull the starter relay & WITH IT IN NEUTRAL OR PARK & THE BRAKE SET verify that terminal 30 has battery power & jump between the 30 & 87 terminals (terminal #s usually marked on the side of the relay). That should engage the starter & with the key on it should start. If that works you know the battery/connections are good so the ignition switch may not be sending power to the starter relay.
Then if it starts that way, and this is the most common problem, it is possible you have a broken ignition actuator pin tip which is between the key cylinder & the ignition switch. That will keep the switch from turning all the way to the start position. Sometimes it is intermittent especially if it is cracked & not yet broken all the way. The best way to tell is to take it apart. You will need a security t-10 Torx bit or you can break the security tab off with a small punch or even a common nail & use a standard bit. There is only 1 t-10 security bolt holding the ignition switch on to the actuator assembly & with that removed you can slide the switch off & see the actuator tip (without removing the whole assembly). The switch snaps onto the actuator so you may need to pry it a little but be careful not to bend the flexible rod that goes into the switch. If that rod gets damaged it may hang up & the "key in" chime may come on even when you take the key out. Just be careful to go straight away from the actuator until the rod clears the switch & you should be OK. When apart you can see if the pin tip is broken & you can turn the switch with a screwdriver to test the switch & the rest of the circuit. If it starts with the screwdriver you can at least drive it to get the actuator pin which is not available from the dealer, only parts store or on line.
Here is a link with good photos. If the tip is broken then you can remove the rest of the assembly.
If not, check if terminal 30 has 12v power (from fuse 2 in the PDC).
If good there, put 12v from battery directly to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. If that doesn’t engage the starter, the starter/solenoid is bad.
Ok got it started the bolt connecting the small wire to the starter solenoid was very rust not making good contact(fixed) now just have the blower issue
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