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Old 05-17-2011, 06:42 AM   #1
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hopeful quick exhaust crack fix

well after some trial and error i think i might have finally found something to fix the dumb cracks (short of a replacment which is coming up right after i buy a sye / ds) ive tried everything from different JB welds to having a muffler shop weld the cracks lol saw this at advanced auto last night and picked some up just to try it out, says its good up to 2400F and gets stronger with heat, i stop drilled the cracks and took some exhaust cleaner and got the area around them as clean as i could (also used a wire brush) and then mixed the thermosteel up and put it on, 4 hours later went to leave work and it wasnt hard yet so i was doubtfull, but i drove it home from work and it was hard as a rock, 30mile drive, only time will tell if this will work lol ill keep this updated (i did miss a few cracks so will be picking some more up today)


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Old 05-17-2011, 07:34 AM   #2
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Interesting, let us know how it works out.

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Old 05-17-2011, 08:19 AM   #3
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:39 AM   #4
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Nice find, keep us posted. I have aftermarket high flow header. Still Cracked at the back yolk. A freind went to a Gison Stainless header. No issues for two years, stainless battles the heat well and the part is guaranteed for life no questions asked. If my weld give up, then I will go Gibson as well.
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:25 PM   #5
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woke up late today (well not really late since i got home from work at 8am and i got up at 2:30pm) so wont have time to do it today but 2morrow when i put some on the rest of the cracks that i missed ill take pics of it goin in
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:27 PM   #6
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I'm also interested... I replaced my stock manifold with a basic steel tube header about a year ago, and sure enough the after market header cracked about a month ago... Before I replaced my stock manifold I tried to use JB weld and that was a disaster. DO NOT try that. The JB weld caught on fire and the smoke was awful.

scgeek - I hope this thermoseal works for you. I really don't feel like replacing my header again until I can afford to buy a nice stainless one.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:59 PM   #7
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well so far so good lol drove it around doing some errands and to the car wash today, and now im at work and it is still holding up, id say 100miles on it now


i tried jbweld too lol a few different kinds they all melted off within minutes
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:04 PM   #8
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Are you doing these repairs on a muffler or a manifold? If a manifold...I'd recommend fixing it RIGHT rather than rigging up fixes. My buddy had a truck in the shop the other day...had a cracked manifold. The owner tried fixing it with JB Weld and other similar products like you are recommending here. He finally took it in to have it replaced after many months.

My buddy got the new manifold and gasket swapped over... still leaks like a sonofabitch. The reason? His rig jobs only made the leaks smaller but they were still there and the hot exhaust gases actually ate away a chunk out of the head.

So now the guy is being billed for a new head (unless they're able to machine it down to where it's still usable--no idea if that can be done, I'm not a mechanic...lol).

All because he kept putting off fixing his initial problem...

My $.02. If it's just a cracked muffler...have at it.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d View Post
Are you doing these repairs on a muffler or a manifold? If a manifold...I'd recommend fixing it RIGHT rather than rigging up fixes. My buddy had a truck in the shop the other day...had a cracked manifold. The owner tried fixing it with JB Weld and other similar products like you are recommending here. He finally took it in to have it replaced after many months.

My buddy got the new manifold and gasket swapped over... still leaks like a sonofabitch. The reason? His rig jobs only made the leaks smaller but they were still there and the hot exhaust gases actually ate away a chunk out of the head.

So now the guy is being billed for a new head (unless they're able to machine it down to where it's still usable--no idea if that can be done, I'm not a mechanic...lol).

All because he kept putting off fixing his initial problem...

My $.02. If it's just a cracked muffler...have at it.
Its for the header and nobody is recommending JB weld we are saying we already used it and it did not work, and as previously stated this is a temp repair
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:28 PM   #10
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Autozone has a replacement one for $188. And it looks like the same replacement header that's on my jeep
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:29 PM   #11
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theres a nice one on quadratec for like 160 im looking at but the PO welded the header to the downpipe (no collector) so im going to have to hit the junkyard to cut out a section with a collector and have a shop weld it in, nearest junkyard with TJ's is about 2.5 hours away (that i know of) and first things first im getting rid of these dang driveshaft vibes with a SYE / DS lol saving up for it right now should have enough in a month
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:10 AM   #12
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Autozone has the down pipe that hooks to the cat also
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:58 PM   #13
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Autozone has the down pipe that hooks to the cat also
how much? i dont buy anything from autozone but if they have it perhaps oreillys will too, prolly a lot cheaper to get it at the junk yard tho, but if it is a good price then new would be a lot better
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Old 05-18-2011, 01:55 PM   #14
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totally forgot to take pics of it going on sorry pretty out of it this morning lol took way to much allergy medicine last night, will say that you should use a mirror to find all the cracks before you use it, i found that one of the cracks i filled continues around the pipe on the back where i could not see it, made it pretty hard to get to had to grind off that filler i had put on already (not to bad) just to be able to get around it, it was about 4" long and the widest part was about 1/8th of an inch, also found some black 500F high heat paint in my closet from a while back so im painting my rusty exhaust tip since it looks horrible, not sure if it will work but cant be worse than it is now lol, now i just have to wait 3.5 hours to go out and slowly heat up the exhaust for 10-15min then let it harden

heres a pic of the before on the exhaust tip, will have an after ina few hours
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:38 PM   #15
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well just finished the last coat on the tip, will see if it just burns off on the way to work lol, not sure if 500F will be enough (dont think it gets that hot)

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Old 05-18-2011, 05:10 PM   #16
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Autozone sells walker exhaust parts and mufflers. The down pipe that hooks to the header to the cat is $72. I was just looking at replacing my cat and the down pipe on my jeep that's why I know what autozone has not that im a big fan of them
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:19 PM   #17
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Anything but a two piece header design, or the flex joints is an absolute waste of time and money. The absolute best exhaust header is the OEM two piece one, however I have a header with the flex joints and it has been going strong for a long time.

I also find it extremely hard to believe any kind of paste is going to be stronger than a weld. The problem is expansion and movement of the engine. Unlike a V-6 or V-8 that has two shorter headers on each side, the inline engine has one very long header that cracks because of repeated heating and cooling cycles and movement of the engine.

This problem was resolved in the later model jeeps by using a two piece header.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:24 PM   #18
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Anything but a two piece header design, or the flex joints is an absolute waste of time and money. The absolute best exhaust header is the OEM two piece one, however I have a header with the flex joints and it has been going strong for a long time.

I also find it extremely hard to believe any kind of paste is going to be stronger than a weld. The problem is expansion and movement of the engine. Unlike a V-6 or V-8 that has two shorter headers on each side, the inline engine has one very long header that cracks because of repeated heating and cooling cycles and movement of the engine.

This problem was resolved in the later model jeeps by using a two piece header.
i dont think it will be stronger than an actual weld, when i had the muffler shop weld up the cracks they were not stop drilled first, and continued to crack and basically the welds "fell/broke" off, i stop drilled as many of the cracks as i could get to, i am going to replace the header in about 2.5 months, looking at this one Original Replacement Parts 4883385K - Exhaust Manifold Kit for 97-99 Jeep® Wrangler TJ, 91-95 Wrangler YJ, 91-99 Jeep® Cherokee XJ & 93-98 Grand Cherokee ZJ with 4.0L 6 Cylinder Engine - Quadratec , will have to check out that downpipe at autozone, thats a pretty good price even tho i HATE autozone lol, perhaps oreillys will have one as well, thanks for the suggestion!


also the shop couldnt get to a few of the cracks with the welder without removing the header, so it was still leaking pretty bad, i was able to get my finger back there with the thermosteel and seal them up
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:29 PM   #19
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i dont think it will be stronger than an actual weld, when i had the muffler shop weld up the cracks they were not stop drilled first, and continued to crack and basically the welds "fell/broke" off, i stop drilled as many of the cracks as i could get to, i am going to replace the header in about 2.5 months, looking at this one Original Replacement Parts 4883385K - Exhaust Manifold Kit for 97-99 Jeep® Wrangler TJ, 91-95 Wrangler YJ, 91-99 Jeep® Cherokee XJ & 93-98 Grand Cherokee ZJ with 4.0L 6 Cylinder Engine - Quadratec , will have to check out that downpipe at autozone, thats a pretty good price even tho i HATE autozone lol, perhaps oreillys will have one as well, thanks for the suggestion!


also the shop couldnt get to a few of the cracks with the welder without removing the header, so it was still leaking pretty bad, i was able to get my finger back there with the thermosteel and seal them up
Yep, that the same style header I have. I'm pretty sure this was one of the first thing my dad had to do when he bought my Jeep back in 2001, so I'd say it's a good 9 years old and it hasn't cracked.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:59 PM   #20
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awsome, good to know thank you! was kind of worried due to it also being one of the cheaper ones out there, anyways as for the thermosteel- just went out and let it run for 10minutes to "bake" it on to the header per the instructions on the back, it sounds SOOOO much better, i must have missed another small crack as there is still a faint leak but as for what i covered, it may not be pretty but it is sure working i put it on a little bit heavy in some spots, heres a couple crappy pics after the 10minute bake,

heres the big one i found with the mirrior, not a good pic sorry



if your going to try this (so far i would highly recommend) its pretty easy-

tools needed:
-themosteel
-drill / (i used a 5/32 bit) to stop drill as many as you can
-wire brush
-alcohol or other cleaning solvent
-rags

start by cleaning it up as much as you can with the alcohol or other solvent and the wire brush and a rag or 2, this will help to find smaller cracks that you might miss (like i did at first) then stop drill them as best as you can, after that i would clean it up again as best as you can with the alcohol, wire brush , and rags,then take the thermosteel and mix it up very well, should be about the consistency or wet sand, if that makes sense lol, then just use your finger and apply it to the cracks, if you have cracks larger than about 1/8 they sell thermosteel with a wire mesh square in it to use, then let it sit for 3-4 hours, i let it sit for 3 hours 45minutes, then run the jeep for 10minutes while watching to make sure it doesnt start to bubble (if it does your heating it up to fast turn it off for a few minutes) after running it for 10minutes let it sit for atleast 30minutes, then your good to go

keep in mind this is a temp repair and the header should be replaced ASAP, i will keep this updated on how it works out
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:23 PM   #21
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just got to work and checked on it, doing well so far, even the black paint on the exhaust tip is holding up perfect
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:26 PM   #22
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I've got two dollars towards a forum fund to bribe sceek12 to delete the dancing kooloaid dude in his signature. If that doesn't work I am going to have to disable signatures or stop visiting this thread.

Best of luck to you on your repair sceek12!
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:46 PM   #23
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That stuff is certainly worth a try.

Probably similar to the famous "muffler bandage." I've seen those last for years, and for only a few minutes.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:58 PM   #24
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I've got two dollars towards a forum fund to bribe sceek12 to delete the dancing kooloaid dude in his signature. If that doesn't work I am going to have to disable signatures or stop visiting this thread.

Best of luck to you on your repair sceek12!
you dont like my dancing koolaid guy? how about this one lol
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:59 PM   #25
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That stuff is certainly worth a try.

Probably similar to the famous "muffler bandage." I've seen those last for years, and for only a few minutes.
ive got about 120 miles on the first thermosteel i applied and it is holding like a champ
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:36 AM   #26
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you dont like my dancing koolaid guy? how about this one lol
ahh, Thats better. it was driving me nuts!

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:18 PM   #27
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ahh, Thats better. it was driving me nuts!

Thanks
lol sorry i thought he was pretty cool
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:53 PM   #28
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well the thermosteel on the larger crack failed (the one i found with the mirror), i think it was due to the size of it and not using the wire mesh stuff the other one comes with, pretty sure the exhaust gasses pushed there way out when it was baking on, just put some more on (had some left over) but used a blow torch to heat it up slowly this time, waited 30minutes then idled it for 10minutes, not leaking anymore, torch makes more sense then running it anyway so if anyone does try this, use a torch if you have one to heat it up after the 4 hour cure time, then wait 30minutes-1 hour and THEN idle it for 10minutes
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:38 AM   #29
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scgeek - thanks for all of your feedback. It sounds like this thermo-seal might work as a good temporary solution until a replacement manifold can be installed... In my case, last year I replaced my manifold with this one from Quadratec:

Rugged Ridge 17660.01 - Rugged Ridge Raw Steel Header Assembly for 91-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ, TJ & Cherokee XJ with 4.0L Engine - Quadratec

It's already cracked at the rear collector. I wouldn't recommend this header in raw steel, but maybe the stainless is better... anyway, again, thanks for your input!
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:25 PM   #30
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ya im going to bite the bullet and get some stuff at autozone in about a month lol, turns out a "friend of a friend" works there so discount getting the header / collector there as well as a new belt since im going to have it loose / off anyway, figure its a good time to upgrade from my flowmaster 40 series to a delta 44

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