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How does this driveshaft angle look?

2K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  TheTank39 
#1 ·
I just finished doing a 3 inch lift on my jeep. I had some vibrations pretty badly. I put a 1 inch transfer case drop on and still have very little vibration at take off. How does this drive shaft angle look?
 

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#4 ·
It seems like you are trying to align your DS like a CV DS, which is wrong. This is what the proper way of setting up a conventional two u-joint DS should be like:



The axle yoke needs to be at the same angle as the transfer case yoke. It should NOT be pointing at the transfer case yoke unless it is a CV driveshaft.
 
#8 ·
It's hard to tell from pictures. You need to use an angle finder to find out your transfer case angle and you need to use that same angle on your axle yoke.
 
#9 ·
A 3" lift will pull the driveshaft out of the slip yoke some on the transfercase. This longer driveshaft will have some loose motion on the splines. This was causing me to have vibrations on start off. I replaced my rear axle with a D44 which actually shortened the overall driveshaft length some and most of the vibration went away.
 
#12 ·
You shouldn't live with any vibrations. The vibrations are being caused by u-joints that are being run out of their design parameters, and continuing to run them like that will ruin u-joints fast (best scenario) or worse, can start taking out seals and bearings in the t-case and/or differential.

It's pretty easy to remove the 4 nuts on the bottom of the t-case skid, support the transmission, then remove the 6 bolts holding the skid to the frame. That will give you a good look at the mount. Before you do that, you can put a small pry bar between the back of the skid and the transfer case and see if you can lift it. If you can, the mount is definitely bad, but even if you can't, it still could be partially torn or rotted enough to be a problem.
 
#18 ·
Yes it is most likely the whole reason for your vibration. The torn mount allows the transfer case to move laterally when torque is applied on acceleration, then settles back to it's normal location when the load is less. Replace the mount and it will likely solve your problem.
 
#16 ·
Check your transmission mount. When I did my 3.5" re short arm kit, I ran no tcase drop and no cv ds for a week while I ordered my cvds and I had a violent shake on take off due to a bad transmission mount and the bad pinion angle just magnified it to the point where I noticed it. I replaced it with a poly mount but if I had to do it again, I would've just bought another stock mount. The poly one has vibrations out the @$$ at idle
 
#17 ·
I replaced it with a poly mount but if I had to do it again, I would've just bought another stock mount. The poly one has vibrations out the @$$ at idle
x2

on the other hand, polyurethane will be a very durable upgrade. plus, the ol' ladies might enjoy the extra vibes =D jk

i went the poly route. not so bad actually. but is rather noisy at idle, especially if you like to collect coins
 
#21 ·
I still have a slight shimmy at take off. I think I may know the reason. When I replaced the bolts in the upper rear axle links, I put in some 3/8 bolts. Thinking back, I think the original bolts may have been metrics. I believe the metric bolts had a slightly larger diameter and 3/8 bolts. Could this cause slight movement in my rear upper control arms at the upper axle links? Could this cause the shimmy?
 
#23 ·
Not sure where you put undersized bolts. If they were in the control arms, yes...take them out and replace with proper size grade 8 bolts.

If you're talking about sway bar end links, they use a shoulder bolt, and using the wrong bolt (under sized) may make a clunk sound as your suspension flexes, but wouldn't cause a vibration on take off.

My advice would to be get the right bolts for everything, torque them to spec, and take it for a drive. If you still have vibe after that, try a couple of washers between the t-case skid and frame at each of the 6 bolt locations.
 
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