It's not difficult but you'll need a pair of 6 ton jackstands and a floor jack. Basically you need to jack up the Jeep high enough from under the axles so you can insert the jack stands under the frame and have them high enough that the axles can fully droop down once the wheels have been removed. Once the frame is supported by jack stands and with the jack still holding the axle up, unbolt the lower shock mounting bolts & disconnect the shocks at the bottom. The top of the shocks can stay bolted in place.
Now that the shocks are unfastened, the axle can droop down once you lower the jack supporting it. The axle should be drooping enough that the coil springs can be removed at this point. You may have to step down on that side with someone lifting up the opposite end of the axle to get the spring out or back in. Once the spring falls out, the spacer is placed on top and the spring is reinstalled. Jack the axle back up a bit and reconnect the shocks and you're done.
I say 6 ton jack stands not because of their weight capacity but because of their height. 3 ton jack stands aren't tall enough for a Jeep.
If you can't get the springs out with just the shocks unbolted, you can then unbolt the trackbar at its axle end, followed if you need more by unbolting the antiswaybar.
You can do just the front or rear and then switch to the other end if you just have a pair of jackstands which is all I have. You don't need four jack stands.
Finally, you have to have your toe-in adjusted now because your 2" lift has moved your toe-in in too close which will cause accelerated front tire wear. Your steering wheel will also now be off a tad which is easily corrected in just a few minutes with the info in the below link.
You can set your own toe-in yourself entirely accurately by setting the leading edge of the front tires so they are 1/16" to 1/8" closer in front than the trailing edge of the tires... like explained at Basic Jeep Front End Alignment
A more accurate method of setting your toe-in than measuring from the tread is by the method shown in the two below pics. All you need are two 3' long pieces of square tubing (aluminum or steel) marked at points equal to your tire diameter, a pair of clamps to hold them to the brake rotor, and a tape measure or two. So if your tires are 33" in diameter, just place a pair of marks 33" apart on the square tubing and measure your toe-in from there with the square tubing centered on the brake rotor. Rotate the tie rod until the front is 1/16" to 1/8" closer together than in the rear.
This method of setting your toe-in will produce results that are every bit as accurate as the latest whiz-bang laser alignment shop. You don't need to worry about your caster or camber angles after installing a 2" suspension lift.