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Old 08-14-2010, 05:46 PM   #1
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How to install coil spacer lift

I have a 4, 1" spacers to go on my 04 TJ they don't have any instructions, just hoping to get some instructions on here if anybody has done this before.

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Old 08-14-2010, 05:55 PM   #2
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Old 08-14-2010, 06:09 PM   #3
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It's not difficult but you'll need a pair of 6 ton jackstands and a floor jack. Basically you need to jack up the Jeep high enough from under the axles so you can insert the jack stands under the frame and have them high enough that the axles can fully droop down once the wheels have been removed. Once the frame is supported by jack stands and with the jack still holding the axle up, unbolt the lower shock mounting bolts & disconnect the shocks at the bottom. The top of the shocks can stay bolted in place.

Now that the shocks are unfastened, the axle can droop down once you lower the jack supporting it. The axle should be drooping enough that the coil springs can be removed at this point. You may have to step down on that side with someone lifting up the opposite end of the axle to get the spring out or back in. Once the spring falls out, the spacer is placed on top and the spring is reinstalled. Jack the axle back up a bit and reconnect the shocks and you're done.

I say 6 ton jack stands not because of their weight capacity but because of their height. 3 ton jack stands aren't tall enough for a Jeep.

If you can't get the springs out with just the shocks unbolted, you can then unbolt the trackbar at its axle end, followed if you need more by unbolting the antiswaybar.

You can do just the front or rear and then switch to the other end if you just have a pair of jackstands which is all I have. You don't need four jack stands.

Finally, you have to have your toe-in adjusted now because your 2" lift has moved your toe-in in too close which will cause accelerated front tire wear. Your steering wheel will also now be off a tad which is easily corrected in just a few minutes with the info in the below link.

You can set your own toe-in yourself entirely accurately by setting the leading edge of the front tires so they are 1/16" to 1/8" closer in front than the trailing edge of the tires... like explained at Basic Jeep Front End Alignment

A more accurate method of setting your toe-in than measuring from the tread is by the method shown in the two below pics. All you need are two 3' long pieces of square tubing (aluminum or steel) marked at points equal to your tire diameter, a pair of clamps to hold them to the brake rotor, and a tape measure or two. So if your tires are 33" in diameter, just place a pair of marks 33" apart on the square tubing and measure your toe-in from there with the square tubing centered on the brake rotor. Rotate the tie rod until the front is 1/16" to 1/8" closer together than in the rear.

This method of setting your toe-in will produce results that are every bit as accurate as the latest whiz-bang laser alignment shop. You don't need to worry about your caster or camber angles after installing a 2" suspension lift.
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Old 08-14-2010, 06:13 PM   #4
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I've used 3 ton stands for a few lifts and never had a problem. Wonder what I did differently... I read that at first and I was like, good god man, how heavy is your Jeep!
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Old 08-14-2010, 06:22 PM   #5
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I've used 3 ton stands for a few lifts and never had a problem. Wonder what I did differently... I read that at first and I was like, good god man, how heavy is your Jeep!
As I already said above, the reason I recommend 6 ton jack stands is not due to the Jeep's weight, it's simply that 6 ton jack stands can be extended up so they are much taller than 3 ton jack stands.

3 ton jack stands "work", I still have a pair that I used to use, but 6 ton stands give you more room and just make working on the suspension easier. They are also necessary for taller lifts and bigger tires.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:27 PM   #6
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Hey thank you Jerry much appreciated!
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:54 PM   #7
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No need for new shocks Jerry?
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:27 PM   #8
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Yeah you need jeep height with the Jack 3 didn't work for my stock we had to rig 4x4s even on the Jack itself.

I have a question about this I have a 2"25 coil lift now and a 1" or 1.25" body lift if I get this and put it on my coils for a little height will I have to drop anything because it'll be riding about 4" do I have to drop or move anything or is 4" still small enough not to have to adjust anything else? Also wouldn't a alignment fix this is problem with the tires I believe you were talking about? I didn't get a alignment after my lift it was so bad by the time i got around to it it was worth the 50$
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:13 PM   #9
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good install video
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #10
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@ Jerry
Do you need to adjust your toe-in if the spacers are only 1.5" ??
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:14 PM   #11
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@ Jerry
Do you need to adjust your toe-in if the spacers are only 1.5" ??
Any lift in suspension will toe your tires in more. The more you go up, the further in your tires will be toed. You should definitely check your toe-in after any suspension lift.

If you don't want to make up angle metal to do it one time, use duct tape, a tape measure, and a sharpie. It's explained on the end of this write up.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
As I already said above, the reason I recommend 6 ton jack stands is not due to the Jeep's weight, it's simply that 6 ton jack stands can be extended up so they are much taller than 3 ton jack stands.

3 ton jack stands "work", I still have a pair that I used to use, but 6 ton stands give you more room and just make working on the suspension easier. They are also necessary for taller lifts and bigger tires.
Depends where you put the stands. You jack the car up by the diff and can place the stands under the axles and it is fine (depending on which style of stands you have) or your other option is to take off both front tires and you can place it on stands that way and have the clearance.

I do agree, 6 tons do make life easier.

In any event, whatever you do don't undo the tie rod. The Daystar 1" coil spacer kit that we put on my cousins jeep said to do so in the instructions and I was sitting there as we were trying to get the coil back on looking at it going...I don't see why unbolting it will give the suspension any more droop, but sure whatever...sure enough, unbolted it with zero difference other than the tie rod broke and we had to run out and replace it mid install.

Anyways, we had to unbolt the shock, sway bar and track bar to get the coils back in. A spring compressor would have made life 10000x's easier, but non of the parts places had the rental ones in stock
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:44 AM   #13
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Of course you can use the short 3 ton jack stands if you only intend on using them under the axles. The taller 6 ton stands are so you can support the Jeep under the frame/tub and let the axles droop all the way down so suspension work can be done. It's darned tough to do suspension work when the Jeep's weight is still resting on the axles being supported by jack stands.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:26 PM   #14
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@ Jerry ; good post thanks. Did miss something?

What do you suggest doing with the coil isolators?
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:28 PM   #15
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well yes for this particular case if you had to use 3 tons you take the tires off and rest the frame railes on the stands
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:23 PM   #16
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I have 2 1.5" spacers and 2 2" spacers. Can I install all 4? And do I HAVE to replace the shocks?
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:33 PM   #17
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I would never stack spacers. Especially not with that much combined height which can cause overcompression of the spring.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:20 PM   #18
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I would never stack spacers. Especially not with that much combined height which can cause overcompression of the spring.
I'm sorry Jerry I meant something like the 2" spacers in the back and the 1.5" spacers in the front. And if I do that do I HAVE to switch out the shocks or will the stock shocks work still?
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:27 PM   #19
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good install video
Except that you won't need the spring compressor. On the back, after you disconnect the sway bar links and shocks, if you jack up the driver's side first, the passenger side spring will almost fall out, then once it is out, jack up the passenger side and the driver's side spring will fall out. Replace the driver's side spring first, then the passenger side. Do the front just the opposite.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:32 PM   #20
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Anything over 1" I'd get longer shocks too. Otherwise all you are doing is limiting travel and reducing articulation.

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