Disclaimer: I'm not a professional mechanic by any means. Actually, I'm not even that handy with cars at all. Read everything including comments before proceeding, and be sure to take all recommended safety precautions.
That said, I had to replace a blown out shock on the rear passenger side. Being that it was my first time diving into this project, I found there are not a whole lot of available resources on the internet besides an eHow article I found almost useless. So I decided to do a write-up. It's a fairly simple job, but the idea of working on your suspension can seem daunting to any new mechanic. Like stated, read through my tutorial first, as well as the comments, because I may have missed something or described something incorrectly. This is my method of how I did the job, so your results may vary.
With any shock replacement, make sure you replace them at least two at a time. If your doing a rear shock, do both, if your doing front shocks, do both fronts. You run the risk of uneven tire wear which will cost you much more in the long run. Plus, the ride is going to be uneven and harsh.
I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L I6. Your mileage may vary, but the directions should be close to the same. Bolt size may be different. I chose Monroe shocks because AutoZone has them the cheapest, and they only need to hold up until July when I order my new lift kit. I would suggest looking elsewhere, possibly Sears or Advanced Auto Parts. Monroe shocks ride STIFF, but for me they will work fine. Read reviews and research.
Materials
Sounds like an exhaustive list, but nothing any basic mechanic shouldn't have lying around the garage. Ignore the Diet Pepsi, unfortunately I'm still underage :bottom: And no, I have Mechanix gloves to work with, the Under Armours just happened to be there.
Now here's a picture of my fender flares after I painted them last night. I actually took the hour (ok, two hours) to take all of the fenders off and then spray 'em down with Krylon Fusion. They came out looking brand new. Then I spilled gas on one of them today, and it ate the freshly laid paint right away. I can't win.
Before
After
That said, I had to replace a blown out shock on the rear passenger side. Being that it was my first time diving into this project, I found there are not a whole lot of available resources on the internet besides an eHow article I found almost useless. So I decided to do a write-up. It's a fairly simple job, but the idea of working on your suspension can seem daunting to any new mechanic. Like stated, read through my tutorial first, as well as the comments, because I may have missed something or described something incorrectly. This is my method of how I did the job, so your results may vary.
With any shock replacement, make sure you replace them at least two at a time. If your doing a rear shock, do both, if your doing front shocks, do both fronts. You run the risk of uneven tire wear which will cost you much more in the long run. Plus, the ride is going to be uneven and harsh.
I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L I6. Your mileage may vary, but the directions should be close to the same. Bolt size may be different. I chose Monroe shocks because AutoZone has them the cheapest, and they only need to hold up until July when I order my new lift kit. I would suggest looking elsewhere, possibly Sears or Advanced Auto Parts. Monroe shocks ride STIFF, but for me they will work fine. Read reviews and research.
Materials
- Shocks (make sure to get the proper shocks for year and model)
- 1/2" Ratchet (I used a 3/8", but strongly suggest against it)
- 5/8" socket
- 1/2" socket
- 3/4" wrench
- Extension (I used a 10", but you may need more then one)
- PB Blaster (I'll use WD-40)
- Gloves
- Safety Goggles (forget safety, dirt in your eyes sucks)
- Hydraulic Lift
- Jack-Stands
- Punch
- Four beers (preferably Corona, Michelob is acceptable)
Sounds like an exhaustive list, but nothing any basic mechanic shouldn't have lying around the garage. Ignore the Diet Pepsi, unfortunately I'm still underage :bottom: And no, I have Mechanix gloves to work with, the Under Armours just happened to be there.
- Start by first loosening the lug nuts on the rear wheels. Don't undo them all of the way. Jack the rear of the Wrangler up, and place jackstands underneath each side. Lower hydraulic lift slightly to avoid pressure on the rear differential. Remove lug nuts from wheels and remove wheels.
- Take PB Blaster (I only had WD-40, it works but not as well) and examine shocks. Spray the bottom bolts on both passenger and driver side, as well as the two top bolts. Don't be greedy, soak 'em if necessary. Seized bolts are not fun.
- Drink a beer. Wait fifteen minutes. Pat yourself on the back.
- Begin on the passenger side since it's easier to examine how to remove the shocks. Loosen the bottom bolt by placing wrench with 5/8" socket on outside bolt and a 3/4" wrench on the inside nut. Use your girly hands to loosen the bolt. You waited 15 minutes right? Do NOT even think about resting the 3/4" wrench against the brake line as leverage. Small damage to the brake line can cause SIGNIFICANT safety risk.
- Once the nut is removed begin pulling out the bolt. Use the punch on the backside of the bolt to "punch" it through the shock using the wrench or Chuck Fists of Fury. Once the bolt is removed, crack open a beer and drink half.
- Pull shock loose from the surrounding knuckle (brace, bracket, etc.) to freely move around. Put on glasses (dirt in the eye sucks) and crawl underneath. Locate two bolts holding shock bracket in. Only one will nee to be removed, the other loosened. Use the wrench with a 1/2" socket and an extension to navigate around the tailpipe and the shock. Apply serious ass pressure to loosen the bolts (PB Blaster'd right?). Loosen both bolts, but REMOVE ONLY THE ONE TOWARDS THE INSIDE of the Jeep. The knuckle assembly will fall out along with the shock, so take care not to loose any bolts or eyeballs.
- Passenger installation is simple. Your new shocks should come with it's own knuckle assembly, so just salvage the bolts. DO NOT CUT THE PLASTIC WIRE HOLDING THE SHOCK TOGETHER Hilarity will ensue. Begin by sliding the top of the shock into the non-removed bolt, then hand screw the other bolt into the Jeep. Use the 1/2" wrench, an extension, and your femine muscles to evenly screw the bolts back in.
- Finish second beer.
- Attempt to slide shock into the lower bracket. If it doesn't line up with the bolt hole, then it's time to cut the plastic cable holding the shock together. Use both muscles (toned) to line it up properly with the hole. Screw the bolt and nut back together (you can use the opposite side of the suspension to tighten) and you're set.
- Drink a third beer. You're half way done!
- The driver-side assembly is slightly more complicated since the 19-gallon tank happens to get in the way, or at least it appears that way.
- Just like before, loosen the bottom bolt assembly, knock out the bolt with the punch, and pull out shock.
- Now get underneath and look at the bolts. The one closest to the body just needs to be loosened. DO NOT REMOVE IT, it can be a pain in the ass to put back in. The one further from the outside is accessible by hand. Use the extension to loosen both bolts, elbow grease will be necessary, and remove the one further from the outside. In this picture, you can only see one bolt. That's the bolt you do not want to remove.
- Slide off the shock assembly and reinstall the new one like previous. You didn't remove the other shock right? If the shock doesn't line up, you may have accidentally reversed the shock, just spin it around (if necessary or possible).
- Again, bolt it in at the bottom. Shotgun final beer and proclaim to your woman that you are the MAN! Then do the dishes
Now here's a picture of my fender flares after I painted them last night. I actually took the hour (ok, two hours) to take all of the fenders off and then spray 'em down with Krylon Fusion. They came out looking brand new. Then I spilled gas on one of them today, and it ate the freshly laid paint right away. I can't win.
Before
After