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Old 04-09-2009, 07:00 PM   #1
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How to replace the TPS

I need to replace the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) on my 03 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L. I took a look and it appears all I have to do is disconnect the wires, remove the screws and take the old one off, then put the new one back on and reconnect the wires. Is that it, or is there more to it?

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Old 04-09-2009, 07:17 PM   #2
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That's all there is to it, and there is no calibration needed. Just know that you will have to rotate the new TPS very slightly so its internal shaft with a slot on it properly engages the output shaft from the TB. Once the slot and shaft is properly engaged, rotate the TPS back slightly so its screw holes line up while keeping the shaft engaged with the TPS. Far easier than it sounds.

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Old 04-09-2009, 07:18 PM   #3
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You have to put it in a 1/8 turn to the right. Then turn it to the left to up the screws back in.
I Just did it 2 day a go.
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:35 PM   #4
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Thanks guys! I plan to do it Saturday and it's good to know it won't be a hassle.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:08 PM   #5
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is this the same for a 2000 tj sport ?
no calibration needed???
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:28 PM   #6
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As far as I know its the same.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:35 PM   #7
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That sucks cause i was going to replace mine a while back and the DAMM hayens manual said it needed to be calibrated. Huh and I stuck up for that manual in another thread a min ago!!!
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:20 PM   #8
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I guess there's one thing I forgot to tell you guys - whenever I do something it's never easy! How tight are the screws supposed to be? When I tried to take the old TPS off, the screws were so tight that I broke my torx screwdriver! I admit I have a cheap set, Popular Mechanics brand. I couldn't get it loose by hand, so I put a vise grip on the handle and that's when the tip of the torx bit broke of the head of the srew. I was able to get it out of the screw. I'm heading to Sears now to get a good craftsman driver that I can attach to a ratchet, and some penetrating oil. Has anyone else had them be so tight?
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:25 PM   #9
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The screws are held in place to prevent them from backing out by Locktite, that's why they are hard to unscrew.
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:00 PM   #10
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The screws are held in place to prevent them from backing out by Locktite, that's why they are hard to unscrew.
I guess that makes sense. I hope they don't twist off on me when I get a better tool!
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:10 PM   #11
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Just be sure to hold the new torx head tool FIRMLY and SQUARELY into the torx head screws to insure they don't strip out. Personally and for everything but the headlights, I prefer torx adapters that fit onto ratchet wrenches instead of the screwdriver style. They can give more torque and are thus more easily controllable.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:35 PM   #12
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I finally got this done. I bought a torx socket head for a ratchet and still had some trouble getting it loose (even after spraying it with penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight), but finally got it. I had to tap the torx socket into the screw to get it to quit slipping. Putting the new one on was easy compared to getting the old on off. Thanks to everyone for your help!
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:35 PM   #13
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Thanx 4 the tip!

C.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:08 AM   #14
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Just curious but why do you need to replace this? What's the affect or issue?
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:52 PM   #15
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Just curious but why do you need to replace this? What's the affect or issue?
I was getting a rough idle and 2 codes:
P0122 = TPS/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0123 = TPS/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
So far, the codes are gone and it idles smooth now.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:49 PM   #16
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Reviving an old thread here....do you need to disconnect battery first to do this? I've got a pretty rough idle now when engine is warm...check engine light just came on, so going to try the TPS tomorrow. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body a couple months ago when I bought the jeep so that should be eliminated...
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:26 PM   #17
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A rough idle isn't often from a bad TPS. More commonly a rough idle can be the fault of a bad 02 sensor, dirty Idle Air Controller, bad plugs, etc.

What DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is coming up with your Check Engine light? Turn the ignition switch on-off-on three times within five seconds and then leave it in the on position. Within several seconds, after the diagnostic routine has a chance to run, you'll see any DTCs stored display on the odometer display. That method works on all model years except 98-00.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:31 PM   #18
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Couple suggestions: spray some TB cleaner into the idle air control at idle speed. Disconnect the battery to clear the codes. Flip the hood all the way back. Make sure to pull the tab out on the electric pigtail connector. Have a high quality torx bit, cheap/soft steel tools will round over and won't break 'er loose. Buy the OEM part from the dealer.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:59 AM   #19
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OK, going to take a quick look at things now....the idle seems to be a bit jumpy but will then level out....no real issue when driving, just sometimes seems like it may not start...but it does.

JB - I'll try that method...thanks
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:05 AM   #20
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P0303...cylinder misfire?
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:05 PM   #21
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P0303...cylinder misfire?
Yep, misfire on the #3 cylinder. Check your plugs & that the coil rail boot is properly seated over that particular plug.
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:43 PM   #22
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Hey Jerry just wanted to say thanks. Looks like I won't put in the new TPS since there is no need for it...you think changing all plugs, etc is in order? Yesterday not much time so I went and recleaned out my intake a bit more and disconnected the battery...check engine light still off and not starting up so rough right now...
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:10 PM   #23
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I'd focus in on that #3 spark plug & its connection inside its spark plug boot. Pull the #3 spark plug & check its condition before getting too deep into anything else.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:19 PM   #24
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I went to the parts store the other week to get Herculiner. When I went outside and cranked the Jeep up the engine started Idling at 2500 RPM. At first I thought the throttle was sticking. It wasn't. The guy at the store said I could try to change the Air Idle Sensor and see if it would fix the problem before I bought it. It didn't fix the problem, but I did keep it because of the look of the old one. He then said I could try a TPS and that did fix the problem, but on my way home the Check engine light came on and stopped at another store to check it and it was a code for the TPS. But it wasn't idling abnormal and everything sounded normal. When I got home I took the throttle body off and cleaned it real good, and put the old TPS back on. That fixed all my problems. So now I have a extra TPS if ever needed. Also looked at my YJ throttle body I have and it is the same part. So I have two extras.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:22 PM   #25
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Odds are that your IAC (Idle Air Controller) was so dirty it was hanging up and letting too much air into the throttle body that it is bolted to. Cleaning the throttle body allowed the cleaner into the IAC to help partially clean it. Removing the IAC & cleaning its solenoid actuated plunger will clean it and what it fits into more thoroughly.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:29 PM   #26
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I'm on my third TPS sensor and I only have 52K on the clock. Started with a strange idle, then lost power when accelerating hard. Engine light came on for miss-fire and for TPS. I bought my first two at Carquest and then Autozone and they only lasted a week or so. I got the last one at the dealer and it still gave me trouble. Turns out when i pulled plug 1 just to make sure it was good the entire tube was full of water. I can only imagine when I was having a little fun in the snow last year some got on top of the engine and leaked in. So 4 plugs and a half a can of WD 40 its been fine for a year now.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:04 PM   #27
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Watch your new tps if you get it from auto zone and make shure the plug is the same I got one there and the plug fit in but the connector was upside down (fixed the codes and cleaned up the idle but the cherokee wouldnt shift tell 4000 rpm ) they went thru all the stock and they were all the same so they ordered one and it came in with the connector the way it was supposed to be all the part numbers were the same hope this helps someone cause it was a pita to figure out I have to keep a Spare in the cherokee cause my hood vents let water in should fix that some time I've been thru 10 or so tps sensors before I sealed it up with dielectric Greece in the seams of the tps and the connector the tps isent sealed all the way from the factory it's only glued is a few spots the tps that I sealed lasted over a year now the ones that I didn't seal only lasted a month or two at most

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