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Old 03-25-2013, 02:22 PM   #1
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how to why for...tummy tuck

Well I know the purpose of the tummy tuck. More clearance.

But what are you physically doing to the jeep to tuck the tummy? I've looked at the kits. And most are just a new skid plate?

Some grey haired advice and wisdom would be much appreciated. Because id like to do this but don't want to waste the money on a project that is over my head then have a mechanic clean up my mess.

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Old 03-25-2013, 02:30 PM   #2
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Most Tummy Tuck skids require at least a 1" Body Lift to make room to tuck. You are essentially raising the T-case into the extra room created by the body lift.

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Old 03-25-2013, 02:32 PM   #3
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Look at the transfer case skid. It hangs down low.

Yes, a "tummy tuck" or whatever fancy marketing term you want to use for it, is simply a higher clearance transfer case skid plate. The level of clearance gained is a function of the depth of the plate. The level of clearance you're able to gain is a function of how much room you have above the transfer case/transmission and how much room you can gain between the transmission mount and skid.

Before you do this, you need to understand the relationships that you're changing--transfer case shift linkage, exhaust mount, transfer case tail housing height in relation to the axle and, thus, pinion angle, manual transmission shifter height relative to the tub, and the entire transmission and transfer case relative to the tub. If you understand how these relationships work and make the necessary adjustments, you'll end up with no ill side effects and a wonderful gain in clearance. If you don't, then you may end up with a mess. Like most things, understanding is key.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #4
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Before you do this, you need to understand the relationships that you're changing--transfer case shift linkage, exhaust mount, transfer case tail housing height in relation to the axle and, thus, pinion angle, manual transmission shifter height relative to the tub, and the entire transmission and transfer case relative to the tub. If you understand how these relationships work and make the necessary adjustments, you'll end up with no ill side effects and a wonderful gain in clearance. If you don't, then you may end up with a mess. Like most things, understanding is key.
Just a question, but with the change in the transmisssion position, wouldn't you also have to run some sort of spacer on the engine mounts as well?? Just thinking you might but wasn't sure.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:43 PM   #5
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It doesn't hurt to raise the engine 1" from the motor mounts and is generally viewed as a good thing to do at that time. There's no reason it has to be done, though. I run 1" taller motor mounts from Brown Dog.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #6
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@ imped.

So with a body lift the hardware and list of procedures and what not should come with the kit correct. Or is it more here's your spacers for the tub and good luck with the rest.

Im not a mechanic. But I am some what mechanicly inclined. And as long as I've got some general direction im good. And as long as I've got an idea what the end result should look feel like.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:55 PM   #7
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The body lift is very easy to do and is far from being the most thought-provoking procedure you'll encounter during the process. It should come with instructions but is one of the more self-explanatory jobs you'll do.

You don't need to be a 'mechanic' to do this stuff. I'm not a mechanic and I know some certified mechanics who don't know the first thing about modifying vehicles beyond their factory configuration. I can count the number of mechanics I've met on one hand that I would allow to work on my Jeep. I can count more non-mechanics than that. You need to be a decently smart, logical person that can use deductive reasoning, which I'm sure you are.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:41 PM   #8
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You don't need to be a 'mechanic' to do this stuff. I'm not a mechanic and I know some certified mechanics who don't know the first thing about modifying vehicles beyond their factory configuration.
Exactly.
There can be a huge difference between a "mechanic" and an "enthusiast".
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:19 PM   #9
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So I drive an lj. If I do the tummy tuck with the body and motor mount lift along with a 1.5-2in suspension lift, do you guys think I would need to get into sye. Or would I be ok with out it. I dont wheel very hard yet. Not a whole lot of rocks in MO. But there is a park not too far off that offers an introduction to rock's.

I just like the clean look of the tuck. And if im gonna be under the jeep may as well do it right the first time right?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:46 PM   #10
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So I drive an lj. If I do the tummy tuck with the body and motor mount lift along with a 1.5-2in suspension lift, do you guys think I would need to get into sye. Or would I be ok with out it. I dont wheel very hard yet. Not a whole lot of rocks in MO. But there is a park not too far off that offers an introduction to rock's.

I just like the clean look of the tuck. And if im gonna be under the jeep may as well do it right the first time right?
Yes, you should also install a SYE and CV driveshaft. You will be moving the axles two inches lower and the TC about two inches higher effectively making it a four inch lift. Make sense?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #11
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So I drive an lj. If I do the tummy tuck with the body and motor mount lift along with a 1.5-2in suspension lift, do you guys think I would need to get into sye.
I did.


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Old 03-25-2013, 10:41 PM   #12
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Hey unlimited! Two quick questions.

1) any reason you didn't go with a totally flat skid?? The one you have looks to be cleaner than stock but not much higher. Just curious on your decision as I'm about to make my own totally flat skid. ( flush mounted to bottom of frame)

2) how much grease are your u-joints throwing?? Looks like a lot on the tub and muffler? Did you just over grease them or is something else up?
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:48 AM   #13
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i run a homemade tummy tuck, jks budget motor mount lift (no real reason to get full replacement mounts unless they are bad, mine were in great shape), 2 inch suspension lift and 1 inch body lift. i had to do a sye, my drive shaft was binding really bad after the tummy tuck. (i lifted the tcase almost 4 inches (rough measurement). there is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between tcase and tub.
if you do this mod i suggest getting the super short sye from rugged ridge or jb conversions, some will bash rugged ridge, i've had no problems with mine but its not the standard sye either, its a lot shorter than the standard sye. if you run the short wheelbase jeep it should be a must. probably not a must for a lj...
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:48 AM   #14
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I did.
And do you have any driveline problems? Wobbles vibes growls?
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:09 AM   #15
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And do you have any driveline problems? Wobbles vibes growls?
I doubt very, very seriously he does. Even if he did, it wouldn't be for long.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:49 AM   #16
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2) how much grease are your u-joints throwing?? Looks like a lot on the tub and muffler? Did you just over grease them or is something else up?
Whenever you grease either the u-joints or the centering ball of the CV drive shaft there will be residual grease that is inside the CV joint; it's inevitable. When you drive, it then gets slung all over. It's nothing out of the ordinary.

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1) any reason you didn't go with a totally flat skid?? The one you have looks to be cleaner than stock but not much higher. Just curious on your decision as I'm about to make my own totally flat skid. ( flush mounted to bottom of frame)
I can't answer for Unlimited, but in general making the skid totally flat to the frame rails isn't always the easiest thing to do depending on what transmission and transfercase you have. Unlimited has the 42RLE automatic transmission, which has a rather large pan and is therefore not as easy to make totally flat.

Some companies, like Savvy, solve this by making the skid flat at the frame rails, and then sloping down just a bit at the middle to accommodate things. I can tell you from experience that you hit the "sides" of the skid more than you will drag in the center.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:54 AM   #17
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^the guys above pretty much nailed it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00tj2 View Post
Hey unlimited! Two quick questions.

1) any reason you didn't go with a totally flat skid?? The one you have looks to be cleaner than stock but not much higher. Just curious on your decision as I'm about to make my own totally flat skid. ( flush mounted to bottom of frame)

2) how much grease are your u-joints throwing?? Looks like a lot on the tub and muffler? Did you just over grease them or is something else up?
1) They didn't make them "flat" when I bought mine. That's a JeepMedic tummy tuck and engine skid. They've been out of business for years. That and AEV/Nth Degree were the highest clearance stuff available when I was shopping. I didn't get AEV/Nth because I don't like the trans/engine skid designs. Additionally, the 42RLE pan hangs down so freaking low, and comes so close to the trans tunnel, that's about the highest clearance you can get without cutting/grinding/hammering/etc and a new trans mount.

2) freshly greased before that picture. not a problem. think of it as "undercoating" the stock shafts doesn't fling grease because it uses sealed u-joints, sealed splines...it's not serviceable tho....

for reference:
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:45 AM   #18
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Geiman/unlimited, thanks for the reply. I forgot you had the auto tranny. And for the grease, I understand why the grease is there I was just curious if that was the main reason. I will be going to all greasable joints once I get my new shaft.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:28 AM   #19
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As far as brands for the body and motor. Are there any that I should stay away from? Or should I just pick the one with best price and coolest sticker? Lol.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:53 AM   #20
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As far as brands for the body and motor. Are there any that I should stay away from? Or should I just pick the one with best price and coolest sticker? Lol.
Most are pretty OK but as far as the body lift goes you'll struggle finding a "bad" one. No reall rocket science involved. I chose the Zonr body lift as it is very well priced but more importantly it is very complete. Aside from the squary tubing spacers for the rubber snubbers under the grill which look a little iffy but qork perfectly good I cannot really fault it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:57 AM   #21
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JKS or Savvy body lift, Brown Dog motor mounts
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:59 AM   #22
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As far as brands for the body and motor. Are there any that I should stay away from? Or should I just pick the one with best price and coolest sticker? Lol.
I know if I end up needing a BL for my TJ I will be getting it from Savvy. Everything I have gotten from them has been excellent in quality and fitment. They always seem to be on back order but I'm sure it's worth the wait.
I'm curious on opinions about MMLs myself as I may be in the market to.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:11 PM   #23
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I know if I end up needing a BL for my TJ I will be getting it from Savvy. Everything I have gotten from them has been excellent in quality and fitment. They always seem to be on back order but I'm sure it's worth the wait.
I'm curious on opinions about MMLs myself as I may be in the market to.
If you plan on getting savvy underarmor get their mml that has provisions for their skid.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:17 PM   #24
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If you plan on getting savvy underarmor get their mml that has provisions for their skid.
I was unaware of that, thanks for the tip.

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