HVAC Gone, Squealing, Voltmeter Crazy, and Check Gauges is Back!
I commented on this in another thread, but my problem has gotten worse, especially at the worst time of year.
Alright, so every time I start my car is squeals from either the alternator or the a/c compressor, but previously I had been leaning more towards the a/c compressor. Could also be a faulty belt, but I don't see or feel any significant damage in the belt.
Now when I start it up, it continues to squeal UNTIL the voltmeter gets to 14 volts (which isn't immediately, about a minute). If I'm driving slow and turn on the heater/defrost/ac the voltmeter drops down past 12 and begins to squeal, if I keep the hvac on, then the voltmeter drops to 0 and the check gauges light comes on. NOW, if I immediately go to restart to get rid of the check gauges, it won't restart it cranks but doesn't start until about the 6th try, then similar problems to before.
AS well, previously, my HVAC was only working on low/high (resistor problem), until last night when now NOTHING works. There is heat seeping out, but no blower. No defrost, no a/c, no heat nothing because the blower stopped working completely. A problem in the ball-tingling Poconos.
Now my reaction before was a a/c compressor problem because my a/c was squealing on the defrost and a/c only. I just recently noticed that it squeals all of the settings except off, and only one the voltmeter begins to drop below 14.
But these charging problems indicate that possibly its the alternator (I hope so) and the blower resistor went because of these wonky charging problems. But I had my Jeep to AutoZone about a month ago where they did a alternator and battery test, even under load both coming back normal
Any suggestions or condolences? And where on the 1999 Wrangler w/ a/c is the blower resistor located?
I hope that's what it is, I won't be able to work on it for a few weeks, but right now my HVAC isn't working AT ALL, so I'm thinking that it may just be two different issues and the blower motor has completely burnt out OR the fuse has gone.
Alright, to help both of us out, I just went out and tightened up my belt and the squeal is gone. I took it down the road and it was nice and quiet. All you will need is a 1/2 ratchet, 15mm socket, and a long extension. Loosen the bolt going through the pulley directly to the right of the fan. Then, use the extension to reach and tighten the bolt behind the pulley. Once it is tight, then tighten the pulley back up and you're done.
Its hard to tell whether or not you have one thing causing all of this, or a couple of problems that are all popping up right now.
For starters, I'd look at your belts, and see if you've got some slippage going on. Your alternator should be running at 13.8V immediately after starting up, (or darned close to it.) A 12V battery is really a 13.8V battery, I don't ask questions as to why...
As I re-read the post, I am wondering if the alternator is actually giving up the ghost. The fact that you're dropping all the way to 0V makes me wonder if it is partially seizing up, which would cause squealing. If the alternator isn't seizing all the time, the results would come back normal when its functioning properly.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will come and help you out - b/c that's all I have to throw at this one.
thanks guys! Which bolt do I loosen to tighten the belt specifically? I can't exactly get to the idler pulley which is the one I assume you're talking about? Not the power steering pulley, but the idler right below it?
Its just to the right of the fan, below the P/S pump. Loosen the bolt in the center a few turns, then tighten the adjustment bolt. If you move your head so you can look straight down beside the coolant temp sensor that plugs into the water neck you can see a bolt head, thats what you turn to tighten the belt up. I think there is only one bolt back there, and you'll need an extension to reach it. Don't crank it banjo tight....LoL.....just snug it up until the belt seems firm when you push on it between pulleys.