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Old 10-01-2011, 07:23 PM   #61
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Good point....I had my serviced at a Valvoline Quick Lube. Not sure what they used. Not overly concerned, as I have 130k on it, and will likely re-build the tranny soon anyway. I only put a few k on the jeep per year, but I am gonna check with Valvoline on the lube rating.

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Old 10-02-2011, 07:36 AM   #62
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Funny to hear that the synchromesh didn't fix some people's shifting problems. I was having grinding issues with the 1-2 up and down shifts and the min I put that yellow bottle in it fixed everything. From what I'm reading that might have the gl-5 additive which is bad but with 130k on my nv3550 I think I'll keep using it till it dies. Interesting thread to say the least.

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Old 10-03-2011, 08:16 AM   #63
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I think there are a lot of varying reasons why people are having issues. No bottle of anything is going to add metal back on the surfaces. While the OE fluid could pose some issues for brass synchros over an extended time, more damage will be done by someone who just does not know how to shift properly.

Anyway, I suspect that some folks are having issues because their fluid is dirty and changing it to anything is going to be an improvement.

In my case, a fluid change showed positive results and matching the rpms a bit seems to make for silky smooth shifts. But that's just me.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:56 PM   #64
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Wait, I am totally lost after 3 pages. Can I put 10W-30 in my NV3550? or is that just for the AX-15?
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:42 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawick420
Wait, I am totally lost after 3 pages. Can I put 10W-30 in my NV3550? or is that just for the AX-15?
NV3550 takes Redline MTL or Royal Purple Syncromax. Do yourself a favor and search it on another thread, this one is FUBAR.
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:17 AM   #66
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My 72 cj was stuck in 2nd when i bought it years ago. I drained the gear lube filled it with diesel and drove it a few miles. Tranny started working flawlessly. I put another 50k on it before i crashed it with no issues. Diesel had more lubricating properties back then compaired to the new stuff. I guessing that's why the kerosene was used here. We are having some shifting problems so I think I'll give the kerosene and holy water a try. Do I add the holy water with the new 10 weight 30 or add it to the kerosene or both. Does auto zone sell HW? Or do I need to call a priest.

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Old 04-14-2012, 07:48 AM   #67
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Don't use 10 30, use syncromesh
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:04 AM   #68
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Update on my shifting... So I'm gettiing grinding going into 1st from a slow roll or complete stop.... I think it's time I check the slave cylinder? Once I do that I'm going to give it a flush and then go back to the only recommended fluid by jeep which happens to be their really expensive stuff...
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:52 AM   #69
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For a 2000 and newer 4.0L TJ transmission, there are a few non-factory gear lubricants that perform well. In no particular order... Redline MTL, Royal Purple Synchromax, and Amsoil Synchromesh. All three of those are synthetics and all three perform well in those transmissions. They are not appropriate for 1999 and older 4.0L transmissions or the AX-5 used with the 2.5L engine.

Personally, I would not use GM Synchromesh or Pennzoil Synchromesh. Neither of those are synthetic (both are actually the same product made by Pennzoil) and neither receives universal good reports from everyone trying them. More than a few owners of 2000 and newer manual transmissions have reported poor results with those two products even though they technically meet the specifications for the NV3550 and NGS370 transmissions.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:28 PM   #70
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I had the RP synchromax in for a few years, then it started to grind again. I changed to Mopar oil around a month ago and it shifted into gears better without grinding, but then it was sticky shifting out of gears.

I thought it was the detent plunger sticking, so I pulled it out and greased it. It shifted out of each gear better for around 3 weeks, then started sticking again as I tried to shift out of gears.

I just drained the Mopar oil and did the kerosene flush. I used the Mopar oil again and now it's like butter. Both times I flushed it there was some micro metal slivers on the magnet.

I had already ordered a new detent plunger, so I went ahead and replaced it.

Thanks for posting this thread, hopefully I'll have a smooth tranny for another 100K.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:37 PM   #71
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so if you flush with kerosene will you need to change the new fluid agin due to the kerosene residue? and my fluid looks new in my trans so should i even bother flushing it? i want to swap out for redline mtl since winter the trans wont go in 1st most the time.
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:54 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanes04wrangler
so if you flush with kerosene will you need to change the new fluid agin due to the kerosene residue? and my fluid looks new in my trans so should i even bother flushing it? i want to swap out for redline mtl since winter the trans wont go in 1st most the time.
What I did, and I couldn't be happier with it. Way quieter and smoother, and I always changed mine once a year with Pennzoil Synchromesh. I was really surprised how much the kerosene got out. I never really had a problem before, the first shift into second when it was really cold out took some effort, and it was noisy in reverse and in neutral with my foot off the clutch. I'll see this winter about the cold shift into second, but 99% of the noise is gone and it goes into reverse way easier. Between the kerosene flush and switching to Redline MTL, it's the best my 01 NV 3550 has ever been. From another thread:

NV3550 trans flush:

Drain transmission and clean magnetic drain plug.

Add approx 2 qts of kerosene to transmission (also read that parts cleaner works). I added until it started coming out the fill plug, like a normal change, just with kerosene.

Put t-case in Neutral, set e-brake.

Start engine, IDLE in every gear (including reverse) for 1 minute each. Turn off engine.

Drain transmission, clean magnetic drain plug.

Let transmission dry out. I left the plugs out while I did other things. I've read of people letting it sit overnight, but I found that jacking up the rear end of the Jeep after it was done dripping got a lot more out. After changing my diff fluid and doing some other things around the house, I noticed it was still wet when I put my finger in the drain plug and felt around, so I took my air compressor set around 30 lbs and a blow nozzle and held it about 5 inches away from the fill hole and blew into it until the drops stopped coming out of the drain.

Now it felt dry, so I filled it up with a little over 2 qts of Redline MTL.

Put the t-case back in 2H, took it for a spin, checked for leaks (none), better than new!
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:20 PM   #73
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nice, thanks for the info . yea i only have a prob with 1st in winter and reverse is some times a pain.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:40 PM   #74
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would this same flushing procedure be appropriate for my NSG370 that grinds going from first to second?
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:03 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2215
would this same flushing procedure be appropriate for my NSG370 that grinds going from first to second?
From what I've read, it's good for all manual transmissions. I've only done it to my NV3550, but I can't see it being that much different.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:37 PM   #76
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Update on my Transmission. after a short period all the same nonsense returned....so the step son has just been driving it, and starting in 2nd, skipping 3rd...and it's tolerable.

Now I have to decide whether I rebuild/replace/sell/set fire to the transmission/Jeep. Step son now has pickup....so Jeep is now a "spare vehicle".

Considering replacing transmission w/ a "smart parts" new NV3550 off fleabay. And if I still hate shifting it, sell the Jeep, if I like it, keep the Jeep and move forward with mods I had considered 2 yrs ago.


just thought I'd update.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:17 AM   #77
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Thought I'd toss in my two cents. Did a brake cleaner transmission flush not 2 days ago and almost all my issues were resolved. It still grinds a little from time to time but at least I got my second gear back. It took me 30 minutes as I discovered the air pump used for airing up my camper air mattress just so happens to fit perfectly into the fill plug hole. 10 minutes of high rate of air blast later it was what I would consider acceptably dry as I didn't want to let my seals and gaskets dry out. But thanks again, work great!
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Old 11-09-2013, 11:16 AM   #78
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Will you stop yelling!!!!! Being louder does make the nonsense you are spewing correct!!! Call the dealer and ask them what to put in your ax15, I mean you can fill yours with peanut oil for all I care but the right answer is 10/30!
DD has a point. Manufacturers have changed the gear oil they want in manual transmissions and differentials to get optimal performance, mileage, and longevity. The technology in lubricants has come a long way as well in the last 20 years. I have seen and heard of flushing, and the right additive making a manual or posi behave perfectly. Its cheaper than rebuilding to try it. I will when we have problems. Im Master ASE certified been around it for 30 yrs. Or, you can continue to banter here.....

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