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Old 07-26-2010, 01:47 PM   #1
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If you are having shifting issues with your NV3550, look inside.

Well, I was a skeptic of rrich's theory that draining my Pennzoil syncromesh and flushing the transmission with Kerosene, and refilling with $20.00/qt Mopar fluid would fix my awful shifting transmission. But I figured "why not try it".

Here's the history.

I've had the jeep for a year, its shifted awful since I got it, 2001 4.0L 126k on the clock with the NV3550 transmission. I swapped fluids about 4 months in (went to the above mentioned Pennsoil syncromesh). and my shifting issues got worse.

What are the issues? It was very difficult to get into 1st w/o grinding(I haven't used first in the past 8 months). I was unable to go from 1st to 2nd w/o grinding (unless I double clutch). Going from 2nd to third sometimes was a chore (usually when cold I would have to try third, if no go, then release clutch, push clutch, and it'd usually go in, sometimes not - then I'd just goto fourth). Going from 3rd to 4th didn't go too well on occasion as well.

So as you might imagine driving the jeep was becoming rather irritating.

a couple weekends ago I decided to give rrich's idea a shot - it was either that or trade the Jeep for one with an autobox.

I bought all the neccessary stuff (1 gal of Kerosene, 2 qts of mopar transmission fluid). I didn't use all the kerosene.

so drain old fluid, clean off the magnet (no big chunks was encouraging). replace drain plug, fill w/ 1-1.5 qts of kerosene, replace fill plug. start engine, run jeep through each gear slowly a few times.(not driving, just sitting in driveway) drain fluid, clean off magnet. I did the above twice and then added 2 qts of mopar fluid (I gave the kerosene 20 mins @ 90 degrees 10% humidity to evap some.)

I've driven ~50 miles and so far I'm exstatic. I still have to let it sit a couple seconds after I push the clutch in before I go into 1st (to avoid grinding). but all of the other issues are 100% resolved.

so to those out there who are having issues with your NV3550. You might try what rrich says....it worked for me.


A special thanks to rrich.

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Old 07-26-2010, 01:56 PM   #2
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I have this exact issue, not as severe though. IDK if I can get to doing this to fix it. Before you did this, did you hear a light 'marble rolling on a table' noise in neutral without the clutch depressed?

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Old 07-26-2010, 01:57 PM   #3
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That sound is normal. I am pretty sure its still there. (its the input shaft spinning)

this took less than an hour, and I was taking my time listening to some tunes while I worked.

oh and fwiw - mine didn't start out this bad, its gotten progressively worse, but it has never been as good as it is now.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:11 PM   #4
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That's good to read. While the GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh technically meets the NV3550's specifications, your symptoms wouldn't be the first time they have been mentioned in the same breath with Synchromesh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TerrorJ2001 View Post
Did you hear a light 'marble rolling on a table' noise in neutral without the clutch depressed?
That's a perfectly normal sound with both the AX-5/AX-15 and NV3550 transmissions. The sound you are hearing is nothing more than the input shaft gears and bearings being spun by the engine.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:52 PM   #5
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I was rather shocked when the Syncromesh made the issues more apparent, as I've used it in the past on other vehicles, and had great luck with it. (especially in DSMs)

But apprently on this vehicle the OEM fluid is the safest bet. (even though the price is absolutely horrid)
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:41 PM   #6
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So when you say "Start the engine and run Jeep through each gear slowly", you mean with the clutch fully engaged the whole time? Or jack it up, put it on blocks and release the clutch through each gear?
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:44 PM   #7
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why not put the transfer case in neutral and run every gear? of course with blocks below the tires
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:59 PM   #8
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I'm going to try this.

My shifting problem is a little different. Once my tranny heats up it does not want to come out of gear.

It's worth trying as its cheap and easy!
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:13 PM   #9
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I didn't bother letting the clutch out in each gear, as I didn't want to put any undue stress on anything (I don't see kerosene being a great lubricator...but I could be wrong)

you could - i suppose - put the TC in Neutral, and set e brake...

I pushed in clutch, put transmission in 1st, took out of first, let out clutch, repeated with all gears a few times.

The first time I got more metal shavings on the magnet, and the kerosene was black (like the transmission fluid was when drained) - the second time I got nothing, and the kerosene was light grey. so I figured that was good enough.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:27 PM   #10
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Once I ditched the Pennzoil Syncromesh and swapped in Red Line MTL my problems have been cured! I had the same issues basically; sticky gears and some grinding from syncros not working properly.
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:12 PM   #11
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I have been running Royal Purple for about 3k miles now with no adverse effects.
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:36 PM   #12
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Your problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
well, i was a skeptic of rrich's theory that draining my pennzoil syncromesh and flushing the transmission with kerosene, and refilling with $20.00/qt mopar fluid would fix my awful shifting transmission. But i figured "why not try it".

Here's the history.

I've had the jeep for a year, its shifted awful since i got it, 2001 4.0l 126k on the clock with the nv3550 transmission. I swapped fluids about 4 months in (went to the above mentioned pennsoil syncromesh). And my shifting issues got worse.

What are the issues? It was very difficult to get into 1st w/o grinding(i haven't used first in the past 8 months). I was unable to go from 1st to 2nd w/o grinding (unless i double clutch). Going from 2nd to third sometimes was a chore (usually when cold i would have to try third, if no go, then release clutch, push clutch, and it'd usually go in, sometimes not - then i'd just goto fourth). Going from 3rd to 4th didn't go too well on occasion as well.

So as you might imagine driving the jeep was becoming rather irritating.

A couple weekends ago i decided to give rrich's idea a shot - it was either that or trade the jeep for one with an autobox.

I bought all the neccessary stuff (1 gal of kerosene, 2 qts of mopar transmission fluid). I didn't use all the kerosene.

So drain old fluid, clean off the magnet (no big chunks was encouraging). Replace drain plug, fill w/ 1-1.5 qts of kerosene, replace fill plug. Start engine, run jeep through each gear slowly a few times.(not driving, just sitting in driveway) drain fluid, clean off magnet. I did the above twice and then added 2 qts of mopar fluid (i gave the kerosene 20 mins @ 90 degrees 10% humidity to evap some.)

i've driven ~50 miles and so far i'm exstatic. I still have to let it sit a couple seconds after i push the clutch in before i go into 1st (to avoid grinding). But all of the other issues are 100% resolved.

So to those out there who are having issues with your nv3550. You might try what rrich says....it worked for me.


A special thanks to rrich.
i had this problem with my 85 nissan 720 4x4 , it sounds like your slave cylinder needs to be bled or is bad no stick shift should grind into gear ! How many miles are on the cluch ? 74,000 and it needs to be changed !
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:46 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by king of beers View Post
i'm going to try this.

My shifting problem is a little different. Once my tranny heats up it does not want to come out of gear.

It's worth trying as its cheap and easy!
you need a clutch ! And check to see if your slave cylinder is bled right first , not coming out of gear means the clutch is not fully disengageing , check the slave first ! Kerosene in the trans ? I thought that was only done on desoto's ! I wouldn't do that . 74,000 miles and your clutch is shot ! How hard do you drive it ?
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:46 PM   #14
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And those of us blessed with an Ax-15, my 2nd gear grind is gone since I switched to Mobile1 10/30... We will se what it does once it stops being 1000 degrees here....
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
Well, I was a skeptic of rrich's theory that draining my Pennzoil syncromesh and flushing the transmission with Kerosene, and refilling with $20.00/qt Mopar fluid would fix my awful shifting transmission. But I figured "why not try it".

Here's the history.

I've had the jeep for a year, its shifted awful since I got it, 2001 4.0L 126k on the clock with the NV3550 transmission. I swapped fluids about 4 months in (went to the above mentioned Pennsoil syncromesh). and my shifting issues got worse.

What are the issues? It was very difficult to get into 1st w/o grinding(I haven't used first in the past 8 months). I was unable to go from 1st to 2nd w/o grinding (unless I double clutch). Going from 2nd to third sometimes was a chore (usually when cold I would have to try third, if no go, then release clutch, push clutch, and it'd usually go in, sometimes not - then I'd just goto fourth). Going from 3rd to 4th didn't go too well on occasion as well.

So as you might imagine driving the jeep was becoming rather irritating.

a couple weekends ago I decided to give rrich's idea a shot - it was either that or trade the Jeep for one with an autobox.

I bought all the neccessary stuff (1 gal of Kerosene, 2 qts of mopar transmission fluid). I didn't use all the kerosene.

so drain old fluid, clean off the magnet (no big chunks was encouraging). replace drain plug, fill w/ 1-1.5 qts of kerosene, replace fill plug. start engine, run jeep through each gear slowly a few times.(not driving, just sitting in driveway) drain fluid, clean off magnet. I did the above twice and then added 2 qts of mopar fluid (I gave the kerosene 20 mins @ 90 degrees 10% humidity to evap some.)

I've driven ~50 miles and so far I'm exstatic. I still have to let it sit a couple seconds after I push the clutch in before I go into 1st (to avoid grinding). but all of the other issues are 100% resolved.

so to those out there who are having issues with your NV3550. You might try what rrich says....it worked for me.


A special thanks to rrich.
AND BY THE WAY, I FORGOT TO TELL YOU NOW THAT AFTER YOU'VE RUN THE KEROSENE THROUGH THE TRANSMISSION AND YOU REFILLED IT WITH THE MOPAR FLUID, THE RESIDUAL KEROSENE IS GOING TO MIX IN WITH THE MOPAR FLUID AND WEAKEN IT. SO DRIVE IT AROUND FOR 200 OR 300 MILES, AND CHANGE YOUR FLUID AGAIN. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY NISAN 720 4x4, AND IT ALWAYS ENDS UP BEING A CLUTCH SLAVE. NO STICK SHIFT SHOULD EVER HAVE TO BE JAMMED OR GROUND INTO GEAR. AND AS I SAID, ANYTHING OVER 74,000 MILES, YOU'RE GOING TO NEED A CLUTCH. I HOPE YOU READ MY PREVIOUS POST.

SCOTT
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:01 PM   #16
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AND AS I SAID, ANYTHING OVER 74,000 MILES, YOU'RE GOING TO NEED A CLUTCH. I HOPE YOU READ MY PREVIOUS POST.
Not true, stock TJ clutches will easily get twice that, even if used hard.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:23 PM   #17
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Mine works perfect with 140000 and counting....
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:35 PM   #18
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i have this exact issue, not as severe though. Idk if i can get to doing this to fix it. Before you did this, did you hear a light 'marble rolling on a table' noise in neutral without the clutch depressed?
bearing in front spline in front of trans is going OR THE THROW OUT BEARING , YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER CRYSLER MAKES THESE NOW
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:38 PM   #19
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and those of us blessed with an ax-15, my 2nd gear grind is gone since i switched to mobile1 10/30... We will se what it does once it stops being 1000 degrees here....
10/30 in the trans ? Who gave you that bad advice ? Stick shift owners pay attention to your slave cylinder !
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:43 PM   #20
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Sure !

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not true, stock tj clutches will easily get twice that, even if used hard.
like my bullet proof auto matic slipping in 2nd gear i thought it was bullet proof and i drive like a old woman , this thing never saw a hill ,mud or stone , a pavement driver only , sorry don't believe you one bit , i'm a mechanic i've changed enuff clutch's in my life to know thats not true , what did you say you do for a living ? Not a mechanic ? Oh .
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:53 PM   #21
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10/30 in the trans ? Who gave you that bad advice ? Stick shift owners pay attention to your slave cylinder !
That "bad advice" came straight from Chrysler. (they manufacture our Jeeps). The Mopar AX15 lube was discontinued and the spec now calls for 10/30 motor oil. Check with a Chrysler dealer.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:09 PM   #22
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you need a clutch ! And check to see if your slave cylinder is bled right first , not coming out of gear means the clutch is not fully disengageing , check the slave first ! Kerosene in the trans ? I thought that was only done on desoto's ! I wouldn't do that . 74,000 miles and your clutch is shot ! How hard do you drive it ?
74,000 miles is not an indicator you need a clutch at all. I have 135,000 on my 02 Jeep now and the clutch is just as strong as the day I picked it up at the dealer in 2002. I have seen clutches go out in 25k and have 180k on them it depends on the driver, vehicle usage, etc. The worse thing people do is swap out a "clutch" with a re-manufactured clutch set. Re-manned Clutch, Pressure Plates and Throw-out bearings are the worse thing ever made.

The Kerosene trip works well as a flush. In manual gear boxes and axles without a clutch pack (internal friction linings) type set-up. As long as you let it drain well and evaporate for a while you will have no contamination of the new fluid.
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:55 AM   #23
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And those of us blessed with an Ax-15, my 2nd gear grind is gone since I switched to Mobile1 10/30... We will se what it does once it stops being 1000 degrees here....
I run 75w90 synthetic and haven't had any problems at all. 10w30 is not exactly what I would consider a good gear oil.IMO
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:46 AM   #24
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I run 75w90 synthetic and haven't had any problems at all. 10w30 is not exactly what I would consider a good gear oil.IMO
What do you consider to be the differences between 75W-90 gear lube and 10W-30 engine oil for use in a transmission that make you say that?
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:33 PM   #25
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10/30

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10/30 in the trans ? Who gave you that bad advice ? Stick shift owners pay attention to your slave cylinder !
IS CHRYSLER INSANE ? 10/30 ? I WOUND'T USE ANYTHING LESS THEN STRAIGHT 50 ! 10/30 MEANS IT WILL NEVER GET THINNER THAN 10 AND 30 MEANS IT WILL NEVER GET THICKER THAN 30 , SO WHY A MULITI WEIGHT OIL ? IF IT GETS TO 10 SURELY YOU HAVE ALMOST NO PROTECTION . USE 50W AS A MINIMUM . NEVER GO TO 10 . CHECK YOUR SLAVE AND BLEED IT. SHAME ON CHRYSLER
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:04 PM   #26
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Will you stop yelling!!!!! Being louder does make the nonsense you are spewing correct!!! Call the dealer and ask them what to put in your ax15, I mean you can fill yours with peanut oil for all I care but the right answer is 10/30!
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:06 PM   #27
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like my bullet proof auto matic slipping in 2nd gear i thought it was bullet proof and i drive like a old woman , this thing never saw a hill ,mud or stone , a pavement driver only , sorry don't believe you one bit , i'm a mechanic i've changed enuff clutch's in my life to know thats not true , what did you say you do for a living ? Not a mechanic ? Oh .
And as you make obvious here, not every "mechanic" knows what they are talking about when it comes to TJ's...
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:12 PM   #28
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And as you make obvious here, not every "mechanic" knows what they are talking about when it comes to TJ's...
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:22 PM   #29
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+10000000 or any other type of vehicule... most of them are as good as the kids behind the counter at autozone.....clueless.....
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:15 AM   #30
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And those of us blessed with an Ax-15, my 2nd gear grind is gone since I switched to Mobile1 10/30... We will se what it does once it stops being 1000 degrees here....
i had a broken key board that wouldn't go to small type . i am a mechanic ! it looks like you payed someone to build your jeep. not me i do all my own work . everything ! you just go right ahead and put whatever oil you want in your trans , but when you have to spend 1800.00 on having it rebuilt you can only kick your self in the ass . remember when your driving and it starts to seize tell the person who told you to use 10/30 thanks

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