I already know the fuel check valve is already leaking, and thats why I turn the key to the ON position for a few seconds before I start it every time. It would then usually start right up everytime.
Lately, I would have to hold the key in the START position until it decides to crank over. It does start easily everytime it does actually start. It went from taking 2 seconds, to as long as 30 seconds. Now it can go a whole minute with out starting. This is my daily driver, so I'm very motivated to have it fixed by sunday night!
I did put the battery on my battery tender all night, so I was sure it was fully charged. Same issue persists.
Before you change anything, do this... turn your headlights on and watch what they do when the key is turned to the Start position. If the headlights shut off then turn back on when the engine starts, you probably have a bad battery connection.
Next I'd put my ear next to the small starter relay inside the power distribution center and listen for a soft barely audible click inside when you turn the key to the Start position. If you hear that click right away, I'd suspect the starter intself. If you don't hear that soft click, I'd next swap that relay with another relay like the horn relay. The starter relay is what provides power to the starter solenoid on the starter motor.
Placing a test light on the connection at the starter solenoid will confirm if it's getting power from the starter relay. If you see 12v at the connection on the starter motor's solenoid and the starter isn't spinning, the starter motor is bad.
If none of that works and you never hear the starter relay click, I'd suspect the ignition switch.
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The part Im confused is testing the power to the solenoid. With my voltmeter black cable on the negative terminal of the battery, and the red cable on the positive side of the solenoid terminal, I was getting very little voltage, less than 1v.
When I switch the red cable to the batteries positive terminal, and the black to the negative post of the solenoid, I get little voltage again, less than 1v also.
The relay clicked like it should, and the lights don't flicker or turn off at all.
I dont have another relay of the same size to test. What should I do?
Advance auto closes in 30 minutes, so If i need parts, it will have to be tomorrow.
Im researching how to remove the starter right now
I used a coupon code for advance auto and got the starter and three socket extensions for $51. The old starter couldnt be tested it was soo bad. When they hooked it up to their computer and pressed "Start testing", their whole machine would loose power! We noticed the big terminal on the solenoid was very loose, and probably why it wasn't working. This may have been related to that incident a couple weeks ago where some lady pushed me off the road and into a curb going 40mph. I know this problem did start happening until 2 weeks ago, so the time frame fits!