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Old 08-20-2012, 07:51 PM   #31
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Haven't installed the B&M tranny temp gauge yet, but at least that has finally made it to the top of the list of things to do. I also have the newer deeper 42RLE pan ready to install that I'll weld the temp gauge's sensor bung into which will kill two birds with one stone. I should at least be able to get the sensor bung welded into the pan this weekend.

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Old 08-20-2012, 09:57 PM   #32
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I'd install the temp sensor in the feed line to the cooler to capture the max temps that the trans sees over putting a sensor in the pan. The pan will give you a relative temp, but you might not catch a dangerous situation.

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Old 08-20-2012, 10:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm
I'd install the temp sensor in the feed line to the cooler to capture the max temps that the trans sees over putting a sensor in the pan. The pan will give you a relative temp, but you might not catch a dangerous situation.
So you'd recommend installing the sensor in the feed line instead of the return line? I guess it does make more sense to get a temp reading of what your oil is running on the warmer end than a reading coming out of the cooler. Sounds like there is mixed opinions on what line is best to use.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:28 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Haven't installed the B&M tranny temp gauge yet, but at least that has finally made it to the top of the list of things to do. I also have the newer deeper 42RLE pan ready to install that I'll weld the temp gauge's sensor bung into which will kill two birds with one stone. I should at least be able to get the sensor bung welded into the pan this weekend.
Will you be posting a write up of this Jerry? Maybe even just some pics?
On that deeper pan, any issues with clearance with skids and that sort of thing?
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:33 AM   #35
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OK, I have more questions for you.

If you are running a deep pan, say... like this one by Rock Crawler:


Do you think the skid could be eliminated?
Talk about CLEARANCE, that would be amazing.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:53 AM   #36
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Kate, the skid is also the rear support for the engine/t-case/transmission assembly so you can't run without it. I can also post some pics of when I install the deep pan and temperature gauge.

Jgorm's suggestion is valid, I ran two transmission temperature sensors in my previous TJ. One was in the pan and the other in the coolant line with a switch to select which one the temperature gauge displayed. For now, since the pan sensor worked fine for me before, I will just do the pan and maybe later add the second sensor with switch.
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:44 AM   #37
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That's what I thought Jerry, but they way they talk about how heavy duty it is it seemed like they were working to eliminate the skid. Heck, you just never know when someone is going to come up with some fancy new idea that will change everything.

I'd love to see some photos!
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:16 PM   #38
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Im in the middle of installing my b&m Trans temp gauge. Was in the process of splicing into the cigarette lighter but noticed I have one black wire and one blue wire. Can someone tell me which is positive and which is negative.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:19 PM   #39
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Black is always (usually anyway) negative. The negative wire is the one that connects to the side of the lighter receptical, the center connector of the receptical is positive 12v.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:50 AM   #40
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Thanks Jerry. Got it all hooked up and running. The only problem I have now is that I've got ATF fluid leaking like crazy at the sending unit. Should I have put Teflon tape on the threads? I think i remember reading a previous post saying not to put sealer and the sending unit threads cause it will not ground properly.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:17 AM   #41
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Where exactly is it leaking? Where the switch itself screws in or at the larger fitting that screws onto the cooler ports? However, that is a simple thermostatically controlled on-off switch for the fan, it is not a sensor that needs to ground through its threads. But no, no teflon tape is used or needed. Did you get that little o-ring on the correct side of its fitting?
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:29 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Where exactly is it leaking? Where the switch itself screws in or at the larger fitting that screws onto the cooler ports? However, that is a simple thermostatically controlled on-off switch for the fan, it is not a sensor that needs to ground through its threads.
It's leaking where the sensor threads into the coupler.
This is the b&m Trans gauge t fitting that I'm referring to.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:39 AM   #43
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I have not yet installed my B&M sender so I don't know if it is a 1 or 2 wire sender. If it is a 2 wire sender, you can wrap its threads with teflon tape. 1 wire senders need to make a good electrical connection with what they are screwed into so no teflon can be used with them.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:05 PM   #44
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This is where mine is leaking from. Where the sending unit is threaded into the coupler.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:10 PM   #45
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These are pics I found online of someone else's b&m kit. Looks to be one wire. I noticed all threads are taped in these photos.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:11 PM   #46
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That's a single wire sensor so its outside brass surface needs to be grounded somehow. You can always wrap the threads with teflon tape but you may need to solder a ground wire to its ground side and ground it to make it work. However, it's possible the threads can cut through the tape to provide a ground if you don't place too many wraps around the threads.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:57 PM   #47
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I have the autometer temp gauge and i wrapped my with the Teflon tape and it works great, but like Jerry said don't wrap it to thick because I did the first time and it didn't work had to trouble shoot it to figure out what was wrong...
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:38 PM   #48
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I went ahead and lightly wrapped the sending unit threads when I got home. Drove my jeep around for about 45 minutes. Gauge is working fine and finally no leaks!!! Thanks guys.
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:32 PM   #49
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 42RLE has a built in temp sensor, and using a digital gauge like the ScanGauge will give you this readout without having to install anything. It just plugs into the ODB-II connector. Plus, it gives you a bunch of other gauges/functions like reading trouble codes.

ScanGauge II - Scan Gauge OBD II Scanner - OBD2 Scan Gauge

This is what I'm planning on doing to my Jeep next. At $160 not a bad deal for all the added functions I'm thinking.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:02 PM   #50
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Just noticed that this digital gauge can also give you a speed readout adjusting for your tire size. Calculate speed % increase... (note: this works for standard or metric, just be consistent)

((new tire size - old tire size) * PI) / (old tire size * PI) = % increase in distance per tire rotation

For me, going from 31" tires to 35" tires means I travel 13% further in one rotation of the tire than I did with my 31's. Input that into this gauge and voila! Accurate speedo!

Don't mean to hijack, this is off topic but relates to my last post about a transmission temp gauge with no install needed. And I don't currently own any of their products and certainly don't work for them.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:44 PM   #51
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Also, the above formula assumes you have not changed gearing since calibrating your speedo. If you have, the calculations are more complicated than I'm capable of thinking of off hand. Defer to one of the calculators available online with a quick search.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:55 PM   #52
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I'll stick with my permanently mounted B&M transmission temperature gauge. I don't want to have to plug my Android phone in just to know what my transmission temperature is.

Mine is mounted in my center console...

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Old 11-20-2012, 06:18 AM   #53
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just bought and installed it, but no gauge.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:57 PM   #54
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sweet write up!!! Great pics
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:30 PM   #55
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That is a great write up and I want to do the same thing this coming spring to mine. I wonder if you ever installed some sort of shield to protect the cooler? I would be afraid of a rock or stick poking a hole in it leaving me stranded on the trail. I am sure that it would be fine with nothing to protect it 90% of the time, but the other 10% would worry me. I wonder if expanded steel or some other type of steel mesh would be enough protection from something kicking up. Do you have any update pics to share?
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:47 PM   #56
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That is a great write up and I want to do the same thing this coming spring to mine. I wonder if you ever installed some sort of shield to protect the cooler? I would be afraid of a rock or stick poking a hole in it leaving me stranded on the trail. I am sure that it would be fine with nothing to protect it 90% of the time, but the other 10% would worry me. I wonder if expanded steel or some other type of steel mesh would be enough protection from something kicking up. Do you have any update pics to share?
Out of boredom one day and really wanting to weld something, anything , I ended up welding a few pieces of 1" by 1/8" scrap steel in an X pattern together underneath the cooler but I really don't think they are required. My previous TJ had an 2.5 gallon OBA air tank in the same location and in the ten-plus years of rock crawling with the air tank there, the rocks never touched it. So far, the Derale cooler is untouched too after a year. That location is harder to get to than it may appear. Not impossible, but unlikely in my experience on the rocks with an air tank and cooler in that location.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:16 PM   #57
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I have two questions:

Is the brand of trans cooler you used still among the "better" ones on the market?

Where is a source to procure them at a reasonable price?

Thanks!
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:13 PM   #58
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I found the best price on Amazon. Word of advice, make sure you check the fittings for the cooler before you get started. They shipped me the incorrect ones so it was an additional delay. When I did my install I used Teflon tape and permatex thread sealant to be certain I wouldnt have any leaks. I also wired my fan direct to a waterproof toggle I control. With the rockcrawler pan, derale cooler and my dual bypass tube fin precooler, I rarely see temps above 165
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:27 PM   #59
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Thanks Jerry! Is there room for the cooler AND an air tank?
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:13 PM   #60
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Hey Jerry, have you had any issues with vibrations from your cooler? After my last camping trip (highway and graded roads, no serious off-roading), the entire cooling unit (radiator and fan) vibrates pretty badly when its on. Enough that you can feel it in the seat and hear it over the sound of the soft top while on the highway. I checked it over and did not notice any damage to it, but it continued to vibrate each time it came on. Any ideas on this one? It's obviously out of balance, but I have no idea what caused it or how to even begin to fix it.

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