Keep your automatic transmission alive, review/installation of Derale tranny cooler - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 09-01-2011, 11:18 PM   #1
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
Thumbs up Keep your automatic transmission alive, review/installation of Derale's tranny cooler

With a recent series of serious overheating incidents while offroading and towing my little pop-up trailer, I decided to hasten my plans to install an auxiliary transmission cooler for my 42RLE automatic transmission. I had added one to my previous TJ that had the more robust 32RH, but Jeep’s newer automatic transmission like my 2004 Rubicon has is far fussier about such things.

High temperatures are the #1 killer of automatic transmissions. So, it makes a lot of sense to make sure it doesn’t overheat while towing trailers, rock crawling, offroading, or just plain crawling in heavy traffic on a hot day. How to do that? Add an auxiliary transmission cooler.

After much research, I decided on a stacked plate transmission cooler from Derale Performance, a well known manufacturer of cooling products for everything from engine oil to automatic transmissions. With over fifty years of making nothing but such products, it was clear to me that Derale knows what they are doing.

After viewing their catalog, it turns out that Derale Performance makes an automatic transmission cooler kit specifically made for the Jeep Wrangler, “Part # 20561 Direct Fit Remote Cooler, 87-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ, YJ.” Very cool, that is exactly what I need!



Mounted to the frame, this type of fan-based stacked plate transmission cooler uses a thermostatically controlled switch to turn its 500 CFM fan on when the ATF reaches 180 degrees and off after it has cooled it back down to 170 degrees. No frame drilling or frame modification is required to mount it to the frame; it comes with a very cool two-piece clamp-style mount that makes the mounting process very simple. Derale says this kit can lower the transmission fluid temps by 30 to 40 degrees.

This is the box that arrived… you can see it is nicely packaged specifically for the Wrangler.



It comes well packaged and it contains every thing needed to install it, down to zip ties for the electrical wiring. The only tools you need are minimal and very basic. If you have SAE size wrenches, a pair of pliers, wire cutters, and a solderless connection crimp tool, you’re good to go. A nice additional tool would be a heat gun and heat shrink tubing for the fan’s electrical connections.

It was engineered to be easily installed by anyone with basic hand tools and that’s what it turned out to be… a very easy non-technical job. The mount and fan frame are unique to the Wrangler kit so no mods are needed to get it to fit perfectly.




Even the two supplied coolant hoses are already cut precisely to length and are complete with fancy red and blue anodized AN fittings. AN fittings are the standard for high-quality builds, you won’t have leaks from these.



One of the first things I noticed about Derale’s kit was its set of instructions. It’s clear Derale put some serious time and effort into them. They are complete, extremely well illustrated, and leave nothing for you to have to figure out. Check them out below.

Derale Instructions: http://inet.derale.com/clientdocs/1_351.pdf

First things first, position the cooler on your workbench so you can attach its two fittings, install its thermostat switch, and do the very basic wiring so the thermostat switch can turn the fan on and off.




Thread the aluminum fittings, the two on the left above, onto the fan assembly’s inlet and outlet connectors. Note that the o-ring shown above on the left-most fitting actually goes on the OTHER side of that fitting. The o-ring needs to be on the side of the fitting that threads into the cooler, not on the hose side as shown in the picture.



Please don't beat me up too much for using the Crescent wrench on that 1 1/16" fitting, my SAE open-end/box-end set set only goes up to 1".

Attach the thermostat switch and its aluminum fitting as shown below using a 7/8” and 1 1/16” wrench. The thermostat switch’s sensor protrudes into its fitting far enough so it can actually touch the ATF as it is pumped through. Use a bit of Locktite on the middle of the thermostat switch’s threads to insure it doesn’t unscrew from the engine’s vibrations. Do not use a wrench to tighten the thermostat switch, it should only be firmly hand-tightened.




The thermostat switch and fitting assembly is then screwed into the cooler’s input port.



Wiring the thermostat switch in is easy, it is a simple on-off switch that turns the fan on and off based on the temperature of the transmission’s ATF fluid. The switch turns the fan on when the ATF reaches 180 degrees, well below the temperature where damage could occur to the ATF or transmission. The switch shuts the fan off after the ATF has been cooled back down to 170 degrees.

ATF can operate at 200 degrees without damage but much above that and it can become damaged. Synthetic ATF+4 can withstand a bit more heat but not much. The use of a transmission cooler can prevent your transmission from ever getting up into the danger zone of over 200 degrees. At 220, ATF begins to break down. As said above, heat is the enemy of an automatic transmission.

Note the following very carefully. MOST of the time, the black wire is negative and the colored wire is positive. In this kit, to get the fan to turn the right direction so it pulls cool air through the stacked plate cooler, the black wire is POSITIVE and the blue wire is NEGATIVE and it is the BLUE wire that gets grounded. Per the Derale instructions, simply read the label on the fan to verify which color is positive and negative so the fan doesn’t turn the wrong direction.

I used a bit of plastic wire loom to protect the wiring and then zip-tied it to an adhesive zip-tie holder to keep the wires where they belong.



Next, connect the supplied red wire to the other side of the thermostat fan switch. This wire connects the fan to a +12v source. Derale recommends the +12v be switched, which means the power should only be on when the ignition switch is on. Derale provides an inline fuse holder and blade style fuse to protect everything. Slip the red wire into the provided protective plastic wire loom before mounting the fan.



I cover every splice and every crimped connection with protective insulated heat-shrink tubing. Heat shrink tubing is inexpensive, better, and quicker than wrapping connections and splices with electrical tape. This pic shows a heat gun being used to shrink the heat shrink tubing that can be found in any hardware store, Home Depot, Radio Shack, etc.


__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2011, 11:19 PM   #2
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
With the fan pre-wired and its hose connectors installed, it is time to install its mount to the Jeep’s frame. The top part goes inside, the smaller part slips over the frame from the outside.




The mount leaves plenty of room for the fuel lines and wiring that run along the frame.



The cooler is attached to the clamp with three bolts. Its angle can be positioned from flat to angled. Once it is at the angle you like, tighten the bolts. For me, it worked best by sliding the mount a bit further rearward and using the forward-most mounting bolt holes. It gives you a choice between two positions, the most forward position worked best for me.

The mount itself is well designed and purposely made from two gauges of steel. The heavier side securely holds the cooler to the frame and away from the fuel and electrical lines underneath. The other half of the mount is still a heavy-gauge steel but it is designed to provide a clamping effect when it bends slightly to conform to the frame and inside mount as the mounting nuts and bolts are given those final turns. The mount holds the fan very securely.



For some, that position may seem to be exposed. However, it’s not as exposed as it may seem to be since it has the frame, skidplate, and control arm bracket on three sides of it. I will likely fabricate an additional guard to provide a little added insurance against a rock being in the wrong place at the wrong time. If this makes you feel better, I had my previous TJ’s on-board air tank in the same position and after nearly ten years on the rocks, the rocks never touched the air tank.



The electrical line plus coolant lines are attached and tightened before the fan is clamped into its final position and passed forward. They are routed next to the frame and above the transfer case skidplate.

Coolant hose routing and connections

The two coolant hoses are routed along the driver’s side of the frame towards the radiator. The two hoses are connected to the radiator's transmission cooler output side, so the Derale system cools the ATF flowing back towards the transmission. Which side of the radiator's transmission cooler the Derale gets connected into, passenger-side or driver's side, depends on your TJ's model year and thus its transmission type.

For 2002 and older models which use the 3-speed 32RH or 30RH transmission, the Derale cooler lines connect to the passenger-side transmission output port and the hard line the OE passenger-side hose used to connect to. Entirely remove the OE short hose that connected the passenger-side transmission cooler port to the hard line, connect the new Derale hoses to those fittings.

The current Derale instructions do not address the change in which way the ATF flows through the radiator transmission cooler for 2003 and newer TJs so the following modification to where its hoses connect should be followed:

For 2003 and newer models which use the 4-speed 42RLE transmission, the Derale cooler lines connect to the driver's-side transmission output port and the hard line the OE driver's-side hose used to connect to. Entirely remove the OE short hose that connected the driver's-side transmission cooler port to the hard line, connect the new Derale hoses to those fittings.

The Derale kit does not otherwise need any additional parts or modifications other than the supply hose leading to the Derale (the plain hose) now has perhaps 6" of extra available length. I left the additional length in place and located the small amount of extra length above the t-case skidplate. Those extra inches of available hose for 2003 and newer TJs may come in handy years down the road.

I expect Derale to add a section to their instructions to cover the 2003 and newer TJ whose transmission cooler flows the ATF through the OE transmission cooler in the opposite direction of the 2002 and older TJ.

The below photo shows the 2003 and newer hose layout connected into the driver's side. For 2002 and older, connect the Derale into passenger side instead.



The first hose from the Derale cooler connects to the radiator’s return line. Derale includes two stainless steel hose clamps to be used here and on the other line but I reused the factory constant-tension spring clamps.



The other new hose, which is the return line, connects here after the old hose is removed.



Derale provides a cool way of attaching the coolant lines to the frame rail which serves to keep them parallel and out of the way of damage. Also provided are zip-ties to secure the hoses and wiring the rest of the way to their destination. Take pain now to insure everything is well secured and out of the way of potential harm.

The two (+ and -) electrical connections are made now.

The negative ground wire, remember, is the blue wire coming from the fan. NOT the black wire which for us electrical types keeps you on your feet. Connect the fan’s blue ground wire to a suitable ground connection. I simply drilled a 9/64” hole in the floor pan above the cooler for the supplied hex-head self-tapping ground screw.

To assure a good solid ground connection, be sure to grind any paint away from what you choose to ground the fan to as shown below. A Dremel tool makes quick work of this.



Sorry about the fuzzy photo, it’s just to show to take care in how the wiring is routed.



I connected the cooler’s +12v lead to an auxiliary fuse panel I installed last year.



The last thing to be done is to add a quart of Valvoline ATF+4. This is needed due to the added capacity of the new Derale transmission cooler.

Don’t do what I did and pour the ATF in faster than the transmission fill tube can accommodate it! Within a minute or two, I had ATF dripping all over the floor and it scared the crap out of me. I had been careful about all the hose connections so it was a scary few minutes until I discovered the ATF had simply overflowed the fill tube. Add the quart of ATF+4 slowly and this won’t happen to you.

Voila, it’s ready for the test! I simply temporary bridged the connection at the thermostat switch and the fan came to life with a definitely audible satisfying roar. You’ll be able to hear it come on if you’re doing low-speed trail work, maybe not on the highway towing your trailer.

Start the engine, let it warm up and check for leaks. I put my hand on the new cooler once it was good and warmed up and it was definitely hot… but not up to 180 degrees because the fan was still off. It took some driving to warm it up enough that the fan came on. Good to go!

This is the final product. Even though I know from past experience that particular location is quite safe, I’m a bit anal about over-protecting everything underneath so I’ll add a protective barrier before too long since this Jeep sees some big rocks once in a while.



So in summary, the benefits of installing this transmission kit are...
  • Longer transmission life
  • Reduces the transmission’s ATF temperature by a very significant 30 to 40 degrees
  • Easily installed, completely bolt-in with no special skills needed
  • Thermostatically controlled 500 CFM fan
  • Peace of mind when towing, rock crawling, or just heavy traffic.
The quality of the stacked plate cooler itself is outstanding. This is not the cheap type of cooler that NAPA pushes for everything that is easily damaged by even flying insects. Its design is truly heavy-duty without the cheap aluminum fins that get squished together which reduces cooler efficiency. It’s a first-class stacked plate cooler that you have to see to appreciate.

The fan is big and also obviously built to last in the elements of water, mud, and dirt that will inevitably be flipped up onto it. When the fan turns on, it really pulls the air through the plates with authority. 500 CFM (cubic feet/minute).

Last step in the installation... drive it for a week and then get back underneath and check for any leaks where the hoses connect to the cooler. I found one that was weeping a tiny bit, probably from when I had to temporarily disconnect it to reinstall the fittings after learning that I had the two o-rings installed incorrectly. Give the AN fittings a quick test for tightness and re-tighten as needed.

What would I change if this was my product? Basically not a thing, it’s truly a great kit as is. If I had to come up with one enhancement, it’d be slightly longer hoses to give a bit more leeway on hose routing. The hose lengths are technically “perfect” as they were designed but just a tad more length would allow more flexibility in hose routing.

The below B&M transmission temperature gauge will be added fairly soon as well, the gauge itself will be placed in the center console just ahead of the t-case shifter.



Next in line to be cooled with a Derale cooler, with a few cool locally provided enhancements, is the Power Steering system. Stay tuned. :tea:
Check out Derale Performance at http://derale.com/

__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2011, 11:29 PM   #3
Nerf gun assassin

WF Supporting Member
::WF Administrator::
 
distortedtj's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: yep right there.
Posts: 21,267
Send a message via Yahoo to distortedtj
Cool beans Jerry. Added link to the TJ write-ups/how-to sticky.

distortedtj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 12:06 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
solman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Southern PA
Posts: 1,668
Great write up. Looks like a well built kit, but I get into a lot of mud and water so I think I will stuck with my front grill mounted external tranny cooler.
solman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 09:42 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
commodore_dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 485
I'm very interested in this as another victim of whoever's stupid idea it was to create the 42RLE. I can't tell exactly where along the frame that's mounted (I don't get under my Jeep a lot), would it interfere in any way with a tummy tuck skid system? I'm also a bit concerned about mud and water (being that GA isn't quite as dry as CA), but this really does seem like the best solution. Any thoughts on if it would be better to do a tranny flush before trying to install this? I was just thinking it might be better not to have whatever nasty bits have accumulated in 42,000 miles trying to float through here as well. Finally, any chance I could get away with installing a sensor for a tranny temp gauge in this area rather than having to drill into the transmission itself? I am NOT comfortable doing that myself, so I'd at least have to get my mechanic to do that while he's doing the flush.
commodore_dude is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 09:52 AM   #6
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
B&M makes a very nice transmission temperature gauge kit, shown above, that includes a T-fitting for the transmission's hard return line. Cut the hard line, insert the T-fitting, tighten the nuts, thread the sender in, you're done. I had a transmission temperature gauge on my last TJ, I'll be adding one to this one fairly soon.

Here's a link to it...

B&M 80212 - B&M Analog Transmission Temperature Gauges - Overview - SummitRacing.com

A great location for the gauge is on the console, just ahead of the t-case shifter. There are also several gauge pods in the various Jeep catalogs that replace the coin tray on top of the center bezel, above the radio.

A tummy tuck would not affect the installation of Derale's kit at all, my own TJ has a semi-tummy tuck installed.

A drain/refill of the ATF wouldn't be a bad idea but at only 42K miles, it's not really needed yet. If you want to do it anyway, I also would replace the transmission filter at the same time which involves dropping the transmission pan. A transmission shop doesn't charge that much if you're not comfortable with that type of work.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 10:14 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
IndyJeepMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,387
Just curious do they make this for the 4cyl transmission? Im at work and cant get on and look. But great write up Jerry!
__________________
1980 CJ7
3.9L Cummins POWER!
Follow my build, its cool and stuff: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/project-shake-n-bake-a-cummins-cj-188515.html]
IndyJeepMan is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #8
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
Just curious do they make this for the 4cyl transmission? Im at work and cant get on and look. But great write up Jerry!
It doesn't care what engine or automatic transmission you have, it works equally well for any Wrangler automatic/engine combination.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 12:34 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
IndyJeepMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
It doesn't care what engine or automatic transmission you have, it works equally well for any Wrangler automatic/engine combination.
Sweet!
__________________
1980 CJ7
3.9L Cummins POWER!
Follow my build, its cool and stuff: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/project-shake-n-bake-a-cummins-cj-188515.html]
IndyJeepMan is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore_dude View Post
Any thoughts on if it would be better to do a tranny flush before trying to install this? I was just thinking it might be better not to have whatever nasty bits have accumulated in 42,000 miles trying to float through here as well.
I have the filter & fluid changed every 30k miles...haven't done a full flush yet because at each interval they found a major problem with the tranny...caught fire at 15k, and was fully rebuilt at 50k....

Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore_dude View Post
Finally, any chance I could get away with installing a sensor for a tranny temp gauge in this area rather than having to drill into the transmission itself?
what good would installing a tranny temp gauge on the cold side of the fluid flow do? wouldn't it make more sense to install it where the fluid is hottest (like the hot side output) - so you know what temperature you transmission is getting to?

Quote:
Originally Posted by commodore_dude View Post
I am NOT comfortable doing that myself, so I'd at least have to get my mechanic to do that while he's doing the flush.

If you can tighten zip ties, cut a rubber hose with a knife and operate a screwdriver to tighten a clamp, you can install a transmission cooler & tranny temp gauge.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 12:54 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
jgorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,880
Great write up. Do you have data on the temps you were hitting before the cooler install? Are you sure you were overheating the oil? My understanding is you can run under 225 all day, 250F for under 10-20 min. Some vehicles will set a warning light at 270-300F. I do agree that having cooler fluid (175-225) will prolong the life of the fluid and transmission.
__________________
my 06 LJ rubicon
2.5" SL, 1" BL, DIY highline, 35s with double beadlocks.
jgorm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 01:22 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
commodore_dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 485
Well, I was under the impression that to get the best readings, you had to actually install the temp sensor somewhere on the transmission itself, thus requiring some sort of drilling. I know that there isn't a scheduled factory interval for a transmission flush at or before 42,000 miles, but it's slipping and I'm not sure what other options I have to try and stop that. I did go and read the installation instructions after my first post, and I feel fairly comfortable that I could at least install this setup (the most major maintenance I've done myself was changing the spark plugs, I've never changed the oil myself because it's only 20 bucks at the Goodyear store and they rotate/road force balance my tires while they're at it every other trip). The gauge itself and mounting that are really something I'll probably create a separate thread for, because I found out there's an actual Mopar gauge pod but I can't find any pictures of it, or any writeups from anyone that actually bought it (P/N is 77060049). It's about twice the price of the TAG one but I'd be intrigued just because it's a genuine part that someone at Mopar felt the need to make (similarly, I'm interested in the Mopar tranny temp gauge, but I would get whatever brand closest resembled the factory look and backlighting).
commodore_dude is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 01:30 PM   #13
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
Great write up. Do you have data on the temps you were hitting before the cooler install? Are you sure you were overheating the oil? My understanding is you can run under 225 all day, 250F for under 10-20 min. Some vehicles will set a warning light at 270-300F. I do agree that having cooler fluid (175-225) will prolong the life of the fluid and transmission.
I wish I had temperature data before the installation of the cooler but unlike my previous TJ that had one, I have not yet installed a transmission temperature gauge into my present TJ.

What confirmed the transmission was getting too hot was that it went into a limp-home mode several times and was barely shifting when that happened. It started shifting ok again after it cooled off.

The '04 FSM says the transmission goes into a "Super Overheat Schedule" when the computer estimates the transmission to be 260 degrees or hotter which is calculated based on "torque converter slip speed, gear, engine temperature, and vehicle speed". So based on what the FSM is saying and how my transmission was shifting at its worst, my 42RLE got to over 260 degrees when the Jeep was overheating.

Per the '04 FSM...

Hot: Oil temperature at start up above 27C (80F)
> Goes to a Overheat schedule above 115C (240F)
oil temperature
> Normal operation (upshifts, kickdowns, and
coastdowns)
> Full EMCC, No PEMCC except to engage
FEMCC, except at closed throttle at speeds above
113-133 Km/h (70 - 83 MPH)
Overheat: Oil temperature above 115C (240F) or
engine coolant temperature above 118C (244F)
> Goes to a Hot below 110C (230F) oil temperature
or a Super Overheat above 115C (240F) oil
temperature
> Delayed 2-3 upshift 40-51 Km/h (25-32 MPH)
> Delayed 3-4 upshift 66-77 Km/h (41-48 MPH)
> 3rd gear FEMCC from 48-77 Km/h (30-48 MPH)
> 3rd gear PEMCC from 43-50 Km/h (27-31 MPH)
Super Overheat: Oil temperature above 127C
(260F)
> Goes back to a Overheat below 115C (240F) oil
temperature
> All a Overheat shift schedules features apply
> 2nd gear PEMCC above 35 Km/h (22 MPH)
> Above 35 Km/h (22 MPH) the torque converter
will not unlock unless the throttle is closed (i.e. at
80 Km/h (50 MPH) a 4th FEMCC to 3rd FEMCC
shift will be made during a part throttle kickdown
or a 4th FEMCC to 2nd PEMCC shift will
be made at wide open throttle) or if a wide open
throttle 2nd PEMCC to 1 kickdown is made.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 01:39 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I wish I had temperature data before the installation of the cooler
me too...

I found 200-210 pretty common without a tranny cooler.

with my cheapo $40 Derale cooler mounted in front of the radiator, the hot side line is always under 160 everywhere. the needle only tips over 160 with radiator temps over 220+, after idling heat soak on a hot day.

i'll be interested to see what kind of temps you see with the $300+ fancy cooler.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 01:48 PM   #15
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
As you are already aware, I already had the same type of passive (no fan) cooler you presently have in my previous TJ. For MY needs, I wanted the extra cooling capacity of a more active cooling system that has a fan. I still saw tranny temps of over 200 degrees when towing my pop-up trailer up the mountains using the passive (no fan) transmission cooler I had in my previous TJ.

I wanted better cooling than I had before so this time, I elected to go with a higher-end cooling system that has more cooling capacity.

The below is the smaller transmission cooler I had in my previous TJ. That type of cooler is great for many things but it just wasn't enough for my automatic transmission for my particular needs which includes towing my pop-up trailer up our local mountains.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TopDownNewCJlights.jpg
Views:	198
Size:	73.0 KB
ID:	66013  
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,208
i never did think much of those inline heatsink cooler types, probably good for weekend hot rods and other "show" type cars, but they just don't look up to the task.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-03-2011, 02:35 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: So Cal.
Posts: 1,146
[QUOTE=Jerry Bransford;1532621]


Is that your P/S cooler in the background Jerry?

Donn
__________________
My Jeep is NOT an suv and Your suv is NOT a Jeep
30-284 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-03-2011, 02:36 PM   #18
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
[QUOTE=30-284;1536280]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post


Is that your P/S cooler in the background Jerry?

Donn
Yes that is what I'll be installing in the next few weeks, good eye!
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-04-2011, 08:49 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
Mr.Ouija's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rio Grande Valley
Posts: 101
Awesome Jerry!!! Thanks for sharing. Just ordered the same cooler this morning.
Mr.Ouija is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 08:11 PM   #20
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
Please note in page two of the above writeup, changes were made in where the Derale hoses connect. The ATF flows in a different direction through the OE radiator transmission cooler for 2002 and older vs. 2003 and newer. The writeup now addresses those changes.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 08:54 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
KKhamesi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 22066
Posts: 665
Thanks for this info bookmaking this page so if anything comes up I know what to do
__________________
Getting stuck is never an option

33" GY DuraTracs
3" Zone lift
Engo 12k Winch
built in air system
KKhamesi is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 09:51 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 22
Jerry, I live in western South Dakota. Do you think the snow and slushy roads over the winters would cause that tranny cooler any problems. I like the looks of it.
dakotaTJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 10:47 PM   #23
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,368
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotaTJ View Post
Jerry, I live in western South Dakota. Do you think the snow and slushy roads over the winters would cause that tranny cooler any problems. I like the looks of it.
No more problems than snow and slushy roads cause for any other parts of the Jeep. It's meant for the location it's at, I doubt it'd have any problems.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-18-2011, 12:02 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
No more problems than snow and slushy roads cause for any other parts of the Jeep. It's meant for the location it's at, I doubt it'd have any problems.
Thank you for the info. When I get a little extra money, I'm going to put one of those on.
dakotaTJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-01-2012, 07:19 AM   #25
Newb
 
TDmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotaTJ View Post
Thank you for the info. When I get a little extra money, I'm going to put one of those on.
Anyone know where I can get on of theses direct fit kits for the '09 JK?
__________________
Sign-Up to follow my Supercharger Drive System (SDS) Engine Mod Blog at:http://tdmaster-projectjk.blogspot.com/
TDmaster is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-01-2012, 07:48 AM   #26
Trail Mom

WF Supporting Member
 
Kate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Scotts Hill, TN
Posts: 2,864
Excellent writeup Jerry, thank you for sharing.
__________________
06 Rubi with some sort of double ended, chrome knobbed, cross threaded, infinitely adjustable, frequently breakable, worn out flammywhammers zip tied onto it.
It used to be a jeep thing... til that sh!t broke!
Kate is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-17-2012, 05:20 AM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 28
will this work for a manual, or is there make a manual application?
Rescue98 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-17-2012, 06:12 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
Yoshiltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 90
I don't know that a manual can benefit much from a cooler.
Yoshiltz is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-06-2012, 01:07 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
ken78744's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 690
before i put my cooler on i had already installed a autometer gauge to watch for overheating the hottest i ever saw was 220-225 and that is in the heat of austin, tx 108 outside and in sitting still traffic now with cooler and fan it does not get over 190...
ken78744 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 07:36 PM   #30
Jeeper
 
Mr.Ouija's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rio Grande Valley
Posts: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
B&M makes a very nice transmission temperature gauge kit, shown above, that includes a T-fitting for the transmission's hard return line. Cut the hard line, insert the T-fitting, tighten the nuts, thread the sender in, you're done. I had a transmission temperature gauge on my last TJ, I'll be adding one to this one fairly soon.

A great location for the gauge is on the console, just ahead of the t-case shifter.
Hey Jerry. Got any updates in the temp gauge install? I'm about to attempt the install on mine and would like to get a good idea on what would be the best way to wire it all up.

Mr.Ouija is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Manual or Automatic transmission SRPs 2012 JK General Discussion Forum 34 08-12-2011 07:30 AM
Quick question on transmission cooler terminator012 JK General Discussion Forum 2 05-26-2011 04:44 PM
Which transmission cooler with fan? nickandsusan JK General Discussion Forum 1 04-29-2011 12:24 PM
Transmission Oil Cooler nicolas-eric TJ Tech Forum 6 01-22-2007 10:08 PM
'04 Unlimited Automatic Transmission Question hmenker TJ Tech Forum 6 06-14-2006 07:58 AM



» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:03 PM.



Jeep, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC