I have a '03 Rubicon with a 1/5'' BB on it right now. Eventually I would like to get a 3'' lift on it and 33'' tires. I still have a while until I save up the money, so it is now my goal to educate myself as much as possible so that when it comes time, I lift it the right way.
So here's the current question: my dad is a little old school, but he claims to know his stuff - and he says if I lift it that much I have to change out the U-joints to constant velocity joints. I've done a bit of reading on this forum so far on people asking about lifts, and I haven't heard this come up. What do constant velocity joints do and would I need them?
And I'm sure this has been covered a million times - but any advice on lifts would be appreciated. I definitely don't want more than 3'' suspension lift. Also - I always thought that body lifts were purely cosmetic, but it seems like they are fairly popular in combination with suspension lifts. What is the benefit of body lift?
From what I've read so far, I know I want to stay away from Rough Country lifts. OME seems to have a lot of good reviews, but I don't think they have 3'' lifts? Plus they seem a little pricy. I've also heard a fair bit about Zone lifts. Any others I'm missing that people would recommend?
Also - have most of you installed lifts yourselves? If not how much does it cost to have someone install a lift? I did my 1.5'' BB myself, but I don't think I'm knowledgable enough to do something this complex. I'd love to learn, but without someone to help me I doubt I could pull it off alone.
Ok, so basically, it's your drive shaft angle that gets messed up the higher you lift. It MAY start to cause vibrations. You need adjustable rear control arms so you can reset the pinion angle out of the differential (point it towards the transfer case). If you get a different driveshaft, it is not going to be a CV shaft. It will be a DC (Double cardon) shaft, commonly confused with a cv shaft. If this is the case, you will still need adjustable rear control arms, but you will set the pinion angle PARALLEL to the transfer case, not at is. But there's a chance you wont get vibes. You'll prob want either a MML or a TC drop. 3in seems to be the max at which people don't get vibes, but every Jeep is different. You could get vibes at 1.5 inches, and another could get vibes at 4.
Good news is, since you have a rubicon you will not need a SYE (slip yoke eliminator), since rubicons have a "fixed flange" transfer case. The driveshaft will be a bolt on replacement.
Also, that driveshaft I'm referring to is the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft has more play to it. Tom woods is a very popular choice for driveshafts, and you get a decal stating your shaft is a woody.
I found this video to be interesting, and shows where the vibrations come from. And no, you can't buy this type of joint for the Jeep :/ I checked
I don't currently have a lift, since I'm overseas. But I've decided on teraflex, with adjustable ranchos. Not going to be cheap, but if you buy quality you only cry once. x2 on staying away from rough country.
This video shows the basic process of installing a lift. Easier if you have access to a lift.
This shows one person installing the front half of a lift solo. Will require several jack stands, possibly multiple jacks, and a good collection of tools (which will come in handy for everything in life). Also some creativity. I'd help ya for a 6pack and some pizza, I'm sure others would be willing to as well. Could ask around !
A 1in BL is actually required for a TT, as well as giving you additional clearance in the fender well to accommodate bigger tires. 1.5 BL would be the max I would ever go, because over that it gets pointless and raises your CG.
And if you can install a BB you can do a lift. An sye/cv might take a little confidence building, you you should be able to handle it. Just research how to do it before you try it.
^ proof your rubi will not require and SYE, and also that you will not be [possibly] buying a cv shaft, but rather a DC shaft. Excellent post though. Also explains why you don't have to replace the front DS, since it's already a DC shaft.
^ proof your rubi will not require and SYE, and also that you will not be buying a cv shaft, but rather a DC shaft. Excellent post though. Also explains why you don't have to replace the front DS, since it's already a DC shaft.
True. Rubi's don't need an sye, they come with one. And CV and Double Cardin, while different, are used interchangeably on the forums. Let's not argue technicalities here. Haha
Point is, you need a new ds, and adjustable rear CA's. Adjustable front LCA's would also be good to correct for caster after your 3" lift as well.
OME 2.5" coils and Nitro Shocks, Metalcloak front track bar, JKS Quick discos, 33x12.50 Goodyear MTR's w/Kevlar, 15x8 Pacer wheels, thedirtworx rear tire carrier
It's not the lift height that affects when it is time to regear your axles, it's your tire diameter. What ratio to regear to depends on the engine size, which transmission you have, and what size tires.
And Invictus, a CV joint is also known as a double-Cardin joint... they are one and the same.
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