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Old 01-20-2007, 07:49 PM   #1
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Little vibration after lift

I just got done installing a 2 in BB and driving it through town. It has a slight vibration that i can feel in the steering wheel. It's nothing terrible but it definitely wasn't there today. I haven't aligned the front end yet so this could be it, any other suggestions?? I double checked and made sure everything was tightened down good. Thanks

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Old 01-20-2007, 08:13 PM   #2
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You need an alignment. See if you can get it done tomorrow or first thing on Monday.

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Old 01-21-2007, 07:03 AM   #3
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You need an alignment. See if you can get it done tomorrow or first thing on Monday.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:37 AM   #4
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I used that to get me to the alignment shop, then I spent $150 dollars at firestone to get lifetime alignments as much as I want, i thought it was a pretty good deal.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:51 AM   #5
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Allignment, and maybe drive shaft vibration. (you may need 3-4 washers per bolt for a t-case drop.
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:09 AM   #6
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I took 1 inch square tubing drilled 3 holes in it after lining it up and marking them with the skid plate. I then rattle canned them black and put it all back together, it looked real nice like that.
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:10 AM   #7
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Oh wait you just have 2 inches of lift so you probably don't need 1 in drop although it wouldn't hurt nothin.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:01 PM   #8
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I got a 2" skyjacker BB and had little vibrations even after an alignment, so I got the xfer case lowering kit and now all vibrations are gone.
This is what I got for my TJ:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16006_105.htm
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:07 PM   #9
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Thanks, I will get the alignment first then probably drop the transfer case. Is this really hard to do or is it pretty straightforward??
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:49 PM   #10
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i also have the skyjacker BB. i only installed some washers and the vibes were gone...

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Old 01-22-2007, 01:08 PM   #11
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Thanks, I will get the alignment first then probably drop the transfer case. Is this really hard to do or is it pretty straightforward??
its straightforward. but i would rather do a 1" BL with MML. you'll get a little more lift for cheap and it will eliminate your vibes without losing clearance.

for the t case drop just get washers and put them over the holes and put the new longer bolts through.
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:20 PM   #12
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I'm willing to bet your vibes go away after an alignment
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:27 PM   #13
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I'm willing to bet your vibes go away after an alignment
that depends on what tranny/engine he has.
i´ve the long 4-speed autpo tranny and the 4.0L engine. the drivesahft is very very short. the 2" BB was enougt to make driveshaft vibes.
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:51 PM   #14
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Steering wheel vibes don't come from the drive line
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:43 PM   #15
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yeah that's true. It is way out of alignment, you can tell by looking at it. I think it will be taken care of whenever I get it aligned, but if not, I will try the t case lowering. I definitely will not do a BL until I get my new tires, then I might go ahead and do one just for the extra clearance.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:32 PM   #16
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Well I got the jeep aligned today and when i drove it home I still had some vibration. I am guessing that I need to drop the transfer case. I am building some plates tonight to drop it to see if that helps. It drives much better but still vibrates especially when I am accelerating hard.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:47 PM   #17
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don't drop it anymore than you need to. no need to loose any more clearance than you have to. that's where washers come in handy. get a bunch of them and add a few, drive around with it, and add or remove as needed til the vibes are gone.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:52 PM   #18
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use wide washers too. Skinny washers won't be stable.
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Old 01-24-2007, 02:05 PM   #19
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before you do a tcase drop you should loosen the tranny mount bolts that hold the tranny to the skid. Loosen them up and start the motor. Let it move around some and tighten them back down. Also, you should loosen all your control arm bolts to allow the bushings to revert back to 0 deflection. Then tighten them back down. Take it for a drive and see how it feels. Then proceed with the tcase drop if you need to
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Old 01-24-2007, 02:34 PM   #20
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I will try this tonight or in the morning. I have made my brackets for dropping the tcase but I would rather fix it another way if possible. I will try the other things. thanks
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Old 01-24-2007, 04:27 PM   #21
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<snip> Also, you should loosen all your control arm bolts to allow the bushings to revert back to 0 deflection. Then tighten them back down.
I've never heard of this before, can you tell me more. I'm OK working on my rig, but honestly do not understand some of the finer points. Thanks
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:04 PM   #22
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I've never heard of this before, can you tell me more. I'm OK working on my rig, but honestly do not understand some of the finer points. Thanks
Your control arms work in a range as well as most every other component on your jeep. If they get outside of that range you can cause damage. The stock control arms have bushings at both the axle and frame end of them. The rubber bushing has a center sleeve that is vulcanized into the rubber. When you torque down your control arm bolts the brackets rest on the center sleeve and the rubber will deflect around them as the suspension articulates.

If you lift your jeep and don't touch the control arms you have now put "stress" on the bushings that wasn't there at ride height. Add that with some longer shocks and you put tons more rotation in the rubber bushing around the sleeve. I always retorque the control arms after installing a lift to release the pressure on the rubber bushings.

This is the last step on installing a lift for me. Your jeep should be on level ground and at static ride height when you loosen your bolts. Release both ends of the control arm before tightening it back down. You don't need to take the bolt out. Just enough to release the center sleeve.

Since I am very picky I always drive the jeep for awhile and do it again. Which reminds me that my wifes control arm bushings need some "relief"!

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Old 01-24-2007, 11:48 PM   #23
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About unbolting the transmission, just unbolt it and let the motor run? It is a 5 speed, do i need to put it in gear? move it, or just start it and let it run??
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:12 AM   #24
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About unbolting the transmission, just unbolt it and let the motor run? It is a 5 speed, do i need to put it in gear? move it, or just start it and let it run??
Just start it up. I usually give it a little gas to make sure it moves around and is happy.
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:52 AM   #25
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When I loosen and retighten all the control arm bolts, I need to do both the upper and lower control arms correct? I have been working on the lowers and they are a SOB to get loose. Thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 12:54 PM   #26
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Yes. Loosen all 16 bolts on your control arms.
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:53 PM   #27
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After a couple of smashed fingers and a hemoroid the size of an apple I got those SOB's loosened and retightened. Well they really weren't that bad but they were TIGHT and hard to get any leverage laying on your back with no room to move your arms. Seemed to help quite a bit but still having a very little vibration. I think I am going to put on the spacers that I made and try them. They are 3/8 inch so they shouldn't be way too much.
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:27 AM   #28
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To get leverage, a breaker bar and bracing your feet on one of the wheels works great.
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:31 AM   #29
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Yeah that's pretty much what I had to do. I would try to get under it where I could push up like a bench press if at all possible.

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