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Old 02-17-2014, 09:47 AM   #1
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Lockers or no

Have a question about whether or not to get lockers...
I have a 2004 TJ 4.0 automatic Sport with the following:
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle

I'm wondering if it would be feasible to install lockers... one axle, both, neither. How much would it cost? Any downfalls in doing this to this Jeep?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 02-17-2014, 09:53 AM   #2
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Go with a aussie locker in the front if you want a cheap set up. put it in your Dana 30. cost about 300$ shipped and it is about 2 hours install time usually. Advantage : it is awesome. Disadvantage, some tend to complain about understeering in 4wd in snowy, icey conditions . That being said i have drove jeeps with them , and i have one for myself still in the box just never got around installing it.

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Old 02-17-2014, 10:31 AM   #3
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I see you live in Colorado. Drive in snow often? If so, an auto locker probably isn't for you. Your Dana 35 rear axle really isn't up for any type of locker without axle shaft upgrades. What size tires do you run?

If I were you, I would probably get a "Super 35 kit" that beefs up your Dana 35 rear axle and adds a locker if you really do want a locker. I would choose an ARB air locker so you can control whether its locked or unlocked (safer on ice).
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:49 AM   #4
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I see you live in Colorado. Drive in snow often? If so, an auto locker probably isn't for you. Your Dana 35 rear axle really isn't up for any type of locker without axle shaft upgrades. What size tires do you run? If I were you, I would probably get a "Super 35 kit" that beefs up your Dana 35 rear axle and adds a locker if you really do want a locker. I would choose an ARB air locker so you can control whether its locked or unlocked (safer on ice).
Forgot to mention, running 33s with a 3" body lift. And no, rarely run in the snow, mostly rock and sand.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:55 AM   #5
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How much are you looking to spend? An auto locker like Aussie would be a good choice for your front Dana 30.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:57 AM   #6
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How much are you looking to spend? An auto locker like Aussie would be a good choice for your front Dana 30.
A couple thousand. Would that do it?
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:20 AM   #7
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If you have a couple of thousand to spend, I would do one of two things. Use it to uprade the rear D35 to a D44 or Ford 8.8 and lock it, or get an ARB locker/compressor and put it in the front. I put an HP30 and an ARB locker in the front of mine and am currently still running the open D35 in back and it's actually working out really well. Still saving for the rear upgrade.
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:27 PM   #8
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The most I would do in the rear D35 is a Detroit Truetrac on no bigger than 33s.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:03 AM   #9
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Same here. I have 2004 TJ with Dana 35 rear with 35' go get new solid chromoly axel shaft and truetrac. No problem with this set up. This is not a Dana 44 with ARB locker but for mild off road and rock crawling its great set up. Also works great on snow and wet roads.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:55 AM   #10
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The only way to safely run 35" tires on a Dana 35 is to put 30 spline chromoly shafts in with a 30 spline full case locker.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:52 AM   #11
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I had the Aussie in a dana 30 on my previous tj and you will lose turn radius. The thing clicks to no end in the corners... Even slight turns. U-turns...forget about it! That is only on pavement. Off road I couldn't be stopped. It really surprised me how much more crawling i could do. I had a dana 35 w/open diff in the rear. My new jeep I'll probably go with an eaton trutrac just from the reviews I've read.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:53 AM   #12
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Auto locker in a Dana 30 put a lot of stress on that axle. I would go for a selectable locker if you're putting one in the front. Probably same for the rear since both axles aren't as strong as we wish they were...
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Auto locker in a Dana 30 put a lot of stress on that axle. I would go for a selectable locker if you're putting one in the front. Probably same for the rear since both axles aren't as strong as we wish they were...
Dana 30's are actually pretty decent axles. You can run them locked up to 35" tires with no upgrades and they will still be pretty stout. It takes quite a bit to break a Dana 30 shaft even locked on 35's. If you are worried, throw in some 27 spline chromoly shafts.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:14 PM   #14
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Auto locker in a Dana 30 put a lot of stress on that axle. I would go for a selectable locker if you're putting one in the front. Probably same for the rear since both axles aren't as strong as we wish they were...
35s on a stock, locked D30. Have yet to bust a shaft, and have wheeled some pretty tough stuff. The D30 is a pretty decent axle
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:38 PM   #15
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I had the Aussie in a dana 30 on my previous tj and you will lose turn radius. The thing clicks to no end in the corners... Even slight turns. U-turns...forget about it! That is only on pavement. Off road I couldn't be stopped. It really surprised me how much more crawling i could do. I had a dana 35 w/open diff in the rear. My new jeep I'll probably go with an eaton trutrac just from the reviews I've read.
So just to be clear, the lesser turning radius is in both 4x4 as well as 4x2? With my short TJ wheelbase, I would think a little turn radius sacrifice wouldn't be a problem.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #16
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So just to be clear, the lesser turning radius is in both 4x4 as well as 4x2? With my short TJ wheelbase, I would think a little turn radius sacrifice wouldn't be a problem.
You only lose radius in 4 wd. Unless something is wrong with your locker it's not locked when there's no driveline torque.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:58 PM   #17
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You only lose radius in 4 wd. Unless something is wrong with your locker it's not locked when there's no driveline torque.
I mean 2wd. The springs constantly push together even in 2wd cornering. Pulling into parking spots at Walmart is going to be different... If you try to turn it as sharp as you do w/open diffs it will bind an click loudly. 4wd is affected, but doesn't matter because you're not supposed to operate 4wd on pavement with an Aussie. It's definitely something I didn't regret doing to the tj because it go me out if trouble when I needed it to.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:36 AM   #18
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:18 PM   #19
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Nice! Thanx for the vids.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:07 AM   #20
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Nice! Thanx for the vids.
NP.. If you check my channel there is a video of an unlocked TJ having problems in the same ledge...lol
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:25 AM   #21
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NP.. If you check my channel there is a video of an unlocked TJ having problems in the same ledge...lol
I will. Say, just curious, is your rig street legal without the side flares?
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:43 AM   #22
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I run a spartan in my dana 30 and open dana 35 (building and 8.8 as we speak) but with you living up north with the snow you definitely need a selectable front locker so a aussie, spartan, lokka, lockrite won't work for you. You can go arb or eaton or ox which are all selectable full case lockers using either air, electric, or cable actuation.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:54 AM   #23
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I have an Aussie in my d30 and an LSD 8.8 rear. I have no turning issues or noises up front, and winter driving here in the PA mountains is fine. Only use the locker/4wd when there is significant snow and don't drive like an idiot. Locking the d30 made a huge difference for me.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:21 AM   #24
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I will. Say, just curious, is your rig street legal without the side flares?
Lol... NC baby! I took them off to paint them but I recently upgraded to a 4.0L sport.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:27 AM   #25
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I run a spartan in my dana 30 and open dana 35 (building and 8.8 as we speak) but with you living up north with the snow you definitely need a selectable front locker so a aussie, spartan, lokka, lockrite won't work for you. You can go arb or eaton or ox which are all selectable full case lockers using either air, electric, or cable actuation.
Not worried about the snow... my Jeep is not my DD. Besides, I could spit and hit eastern Utah. I wheel on rocks and sand 95% of the time.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:55 PM   #26
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an 8.8 locked and setup for use in a TJ will run well over 2500. a super 35 which uses the axle shafts that are .01 inches smaller can be had for half that.

just an FYI
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:04 PM   #27
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an 8.8 locked and setup for use in a TJ will run well over 2500. a super 35 which uses the axle shafts that are .01 inches smaller can be had for half that.

just an FYI
Unless you do it yourself. Weld on perches and grab some brake line cables for a few hundred. Its not just about the shaft size, but you are correct in saying the super 35 is plenty strong for most applications, specifically up to 35" tires.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:44 PM   #28
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an 8.8 locked and setup for use in a TJ will run well over 2500. a super 35 which uses the axle shafts that are .01 inches smaller can be had for half that.

just an FYI
Lol what a joke. Diameter is inconsequential. Look at the splines and shaft itself. Not to mention the entire 8.8 is stronger. I can swap one in for wayyyyy less that 2500, and I did.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:36 PM   #29
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An Aussie or Spartan will cost around $250 each. Install is pretty straight forward and can be done in about 2 hours with proper tools.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:49 PM   #30
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I have a Aussie up front and recommend it! The locker only engages when there is torque being applied to the axle. That means in 2wd it won't lock. If you make a tight turn while going fast you will hear clicking from the locker but it will not lock. It will only lock if torque is applied from the pinion.

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